New Vehicle - Service Suggestions

[yolo33]

Howdy all,

After going back and forth about Tahoe vs Suburban, I ended up purchasing a 2011 Suburban LT with 125k miles. The truck is fantastic condition inside and drives like a dream, but does have a small leak in the oil pan, which I know will need to be repaired.

While at idle the needle jumps ever so slightly so the very slight rough idle is hardly noticeable but is there. However, it's due for new plugs and wires. Am also throwing on a new serpentine belt.

Other than plugs/wires, what other maintenance suggestions do you have for this model and mileage.

Thanks SO much!

 

[Doubeleive]

Howdy all,

After going back and forth about Tahoe vs Suburban, I ended up purchasing a 2011 Suburban LT with 125k miles. The truck is fantastic condition inside and drives like a dream, but does have a small leak in the oil pan, which I know will need to be repaired.

While at idle the needle jumps ever so slightly so the very slight rough idle is hardly noticeable but is there. However, it's due for new plugs and wires. Am also throwing on a new serpentine belt.

Other than plugs/wires, what other maintenance suggestions do you have for this model and mileage.

Thanks SO much!

Flush everything including brakes and power steering, coolant, diff, trans, transfer case.
replace heater hoses & T's
replace all 4 02 sensors
clean the intake, throttle body, maf
throw in a few bottles of injector cleaner for the next few tank fulls (use 2 bottles per tank) or 10oz if you buy the big bottle which is much cheaper
inspect your brakes and front wheel hubs, bushings, sway bars, end links
if the battery age is unknown consider a new battery and clean up the cables with a wire brush
basic stuff to keep you running smooth.............

 

[B-train]

What @Doubeleive said. I think we can consider this thread closed......LOL

 

[Doubeleive]

i'll even roll the dice and bet the first thing to go is the radiator due to age, unless it's been replaced already.
they like to crack on the plastic end caps

 

[yolo33]

i'll even roll the dice and bet the first thing to go is the radiator due to age, unless it's been replaced already.
they like to crack on the plastic end caps

Didn't think about that. It hasn't been replaced, so certainly wouldn't hurt to inspect that. Everything else suggested I'll add to the list to get knocked out. Appreciate it.

 

[Doubeleive]

Didn't think about that. It hasn't been replaced, so certainly wouldn't hurt to inspect that. Everything else suggested I'll add to the list to get knocked out. Appreciate it.

it's just something that happens especially if it has not been driven a lot and then suddenly starts getting driven and of course it's getting warmer now, if it happens it's usually a slow leak and most likely won't leave you stranded on the side of the road
or it might last another 10 years.....lol

 

[yolo33]

Sorry to revive this thread lol, however I was provided all of the maintenance records for the vehicle this afternoon. It looks like at 100,000 miles the plugs & wires were replaced as well as the throttle body was cleaned. HOWEVER, there is still a very slight rpm needle jump while at idle.

It's now at 125k so would you try and change the plugs/wires again or what direction would you suggest to figure this out? I still need to clean the MAF and install a new air filter. (Our local service center is ran by a "Gomer Pyle" kind of fella so I am avoiding going there at all costs)

 

[BacDoc]

Sorry to revive this thread lol, however I was provided all of the maintenance records for the vehicle this afternoon. It looks like at 100,000 miles the plugs & wires were replaced as well as the throttle body was cleaned. HOWEVER, there is still a very slight rpm needle jump while at idle.

It's now at 125k so would you try and change the plugs/wires again or what direction would you suggest to figure this out? I still need to clean the MAF and install a new air filter. (Our local service center is ran by a "Gomer Pyle" kind of fella so I am avoiding going there at all costs)

I’m no mechanic but I’m pretty sure the plugs/wires should not have issues with 25k miles.
You never said what motor is in your truck.

Best to find a good mechanic (someone who knows that motor) to diagnose the rpm jump. 125k is not a lot of miles on that truck and V8 motor

 

[yolo33]

I’m no mechanic but I’m pretty sure the plugs/wires should not have issues with 25k miles.
You never said what motor is in your truck.

Best to find a good mechanic (someone who knows that motor) to diagnose the rpm jump. 125k is not a lot of miles on that truck and V8 motor

Yeah that was my thought with the plugs and wires. Its the 5.3

 

[Doubeleive]

Sorry to revive this thread lol, however I was provided all of the maintenance records for the vehicle this afternoon. It looks like at 100,000 miles the plugs & wires were replaced as well as the throttle body was cleaned. HOWEVER, there is still a very slight rpm needle jump while at idle.

It's now at 125k so would you try and change the plugs/wires again or what direction would you suggest to figure this out? I still need to clean the MAF and install a new air filter. (Our local service center is ran by a "Gomer Pyle" kind of fella so I am avoiding going there at all costs)

I clean my throttle body & maf about every 3-4 months regardless of "mileage" I also intermittentley add injector cleaner every 5-6 tanks
if you wait until 100k to clean your throttle body it's gonna be nasty asf, no sense in putting off maintenance that can be done in minutes on a regular basis
I would recomend at least once every 6 months just to keep everything copasetic
usually minor idle issue's are cleared up by cleaning the intake and adding injector cleaner to each tankful for a few tanks (back to back), one dose is not going to do much
you could go a step further if you suspect there may be some other issue and monitor the fuel pressure with a gauge, harbor freight sells them for like $30, you don't need a $300 snap-on kit for something that may only get used once in a blue moon

 

[yolo33]

Perfect! Many thanks

 

[tom3]

One other thing, might seem a bit odd, check the bolts/pins that hold the disc brake pads on. They let the caliper move to keep it centered and they sure will get corroded and stick, screws up the braking some and unevenly wears the pads much quicker.

 

[petethepug]

Make sure you get a good penetrating lube on the plugs a few hours before you pull them. The plugs are a dissimilar metal than the aluminum block. The penetrant will break up any galvanic corrosion.

Don’t buy from unknown eBay or Amazon sellers, counterfeit plugs & wires are rampant. Do purchase a good plug wire puller. Pulling off a brand new plug wire (just once) with out one can trash it so you start throwing codes.

Do use the included dielectric grease on the new plug ceramic body where they tend to stick, but not on the electrode.

 

[Grady_Wilson]

Cleaning the MAF is especially important if you have never done it and you, or the PO, used oiled air filter media.
Many filters add oil to the paper element to help attract dirt and that oil can contaminate the air being pulled into the engine and cause a slight coating to build up on the MAF.
It's always good to have a can of MAF cleaner on hand and use it regularly.
It seems that the MAFs on these trucks aren't so sensitive that cleaning them regularly isn't going to damage them.
Some cars, a lot of Nissans for example, have MAFs that are very sensitive to being messed with, even cleaning them can cause them to stop working properly.
When you clean the throttle body, do not move the butterfly by hand, just spray some cleaner on the butterfly and tubing and use a toothbrush to help remove any build up.

But, all of the suggestions in the previous posts are pretty much all you need to do to enjoy driving one of these trucks.