2017 Tahoe "Cylinder Head Replacement" $9k? Parts & Labor Solutions/Suggestions please.

[TonyTahoe2017]

Here's my Tahoe History:
I'm going to a reputable independent shop that car enthusiasts like.

I can't afford to fix the car. I don't know if there's a cheaper solution. Parts sound pricy. Labor is 30hrs of work estimated. That's for a mechanic that knows what they're doing. I'll take it in the shorts on a trade in due to the repair. Any suggestions tips or tricks are appreciated.


2019 Bought 2017 Tahoe.
2021. Rear collision. Since that day engine light came on. Drivable. I eventually take it to get fixed through insurance etc. This is when I notice a rough idle. I assume it's been going on the entire time. Body Shop said engine light/rough idle not related to damage caused. They fix the damaged things. Still has rough idle. That's fine if it's not related. I don't know what the issue is. Engine light mostly on. Sometimes goes away. intermittent. Maybe weird sensor.

2023 I renew my registration and pass no issues DEQ. Same engine light at times and rough idle at times.

2025 need to renew my registration but it doesn't pass DEQ. It'd passed before. Misfire and upper lower oil leaks. Also suspension is shot the ride was not smooth. I fix oil leaks and spark plugs and replace front struts rear shocks. $6500. I'm supposed to drive it 40-50mi before I can DEQ pass. It seems to run fine all weekend. Suspension is noticeable improvement.
Monday engine light comes back on. 1 time misfire, doesn't repeat. Stills pretty good maybe a rough start. Attributed it to possible octane difference is gas after filling up. i did gas up at a different location. Resets sensor. It comes back on.

Rough idle returns. Eventually rough idle returns. I got back in. "Ignition wire might have some corrosion so possible it's not delivering enough juice to spark plugs. Replace ignition wires. BUT notices afterward that Rough Idle still persists. Kept it overnight. Coolant and oil getting into cylinder heads. Solution replace cylinder heads, gaskets and valve stem seals. Parts cost: $3500 Labor $5800. total $9k. Would it be cheaper to replace the engine? There's a Pick-N-Pull 2017 Tahoe 100 miles north of me. I don't know what parts cost. Seems cheaper.

Below are the codes/notes from recent work.


|Codes: -P0300 - Misfire detected. -P050D - Rough Idle. Cleared codes, monitored misfires through a scan tool, under load cylinders 1, 3, 4, 5, 6 were intermittently misfiring. Injectors and coil packs work good with no misfires. Checked spark plugs, porcelain look good. Recommend replacing all spark plug wires, as many of the wires have internal corrosion. After replacing the wires, the issue didn't go away. Noted that this vehicle has been in for this issue back in April, I looked up TSB's and there's a TSB for these exact codes (P0300 & P050D) saying the liners in the heads give out and leak coolant into the cylinders. Block test passed, but on a warm engine. Need to block test again after the engine fully cools down. Pulled out several spark plugs, put a bore scope into the cylinders and 3/3 cylinders that I've checked are all wet on the inside and the cylinder walls are glazey. Need to pressurize the cooling system and see if there's a leak once the engine is cool. Preferably need to leave the car over night. After pressurizing the cooling system over night, PSI dropped. Checked the cylinders in the morning, noticed valve stems leaking and coolant present in the cylinders. Recommend replacing cylinder heads, head gaskets and valve stem seals.|REPLACE - Ignition Wires

 

[thefrey]

9k seems very steep for a cylinder head, gasket, and valve stem seal job.

I would recommend getting more quotes from other shops that specializes more so in engine building. A good shop will reuse and machine the heads, machine valve seats, and install new valves. it shouldn't be much more than 2-4k IMO.

Have you noticed your coolant levels dropping? How many miles are on the engine?

If you are going to have the heads off, it may make sense to pay somebody to do a DOD delete. I am in the middle of doing one right now and can share more info if you are interested.

 

[TonyTahoe2017]

95,800 miles
50k when I bought in 2019. $8kyr avg since I owned it.
I don't think I noticed any coolant levels dropping. But I wouldn't know. I don't have a garage or driveway and park on the street next to the house/curb. There's no oil build up or anything. Lurches, misfires, chug-a-lugs at times stopping or accelerating. Cold start usually rough. not sure if that's helpful.

2021 I had Valvoline drive-through remove, replace transmission coolant. I wondered if they a bad job as a potential cause of the engine light and chug-a-lug, misfire, rough idle. I also checked my tow-button to make sure it wasn't pushed and verified that my auto 4wD or 2WD sensor wasn't stuck in some mode. Nothing like that. I think used some sort of scope to see what was getting in cylinders. I'm not very knowledgeable in engines etc but learning more and more as I have problems and research.

 

[jaxscuby]

google is your friend..

Replacing a cylinder head on a 2017 Chevy Tahoe typically costs $1,500 to $3,000+, with parts (head, gaskets, bolts, coolant) around $700-$1,000+ and labor (6-12+ hours at $100-$180/hr) making up the bulk, plus potential machine shop fees for resurfacing, but it can climb higher if other engine damage (like bearings/rods) is found.
Cost Breakdown & Factors:

• Labor (Biggest Factor): 8-12+ hours is common for this job, at $100-$150+ per hour, totaling $800-$1800+.
• Parts (Cylinder Head):
  • Remanufactured/New Heads: $400 - $800+ per head (you have two!).
  • Gasket/Bolt Kits: $150 - $300+.
  • Coolant & Thermostat: ~$50 - $100.
• Machine Shop: $400-$600+ for resurfacing the head(s) to ensure a perfect seal.
• Vehicle Condition: If the damage is severe (cracked head, damaged block), it might be more cost-effective to replace the entire engine

so just 1 cylinder head or 2?
but $9K..something sounds odd.

 

[jaxscuby]

go get the pick-a-part engine..

 

[Tonyv__]

Shop around. I can’t even find a cylinder head that’s nearly that expensive.

 

[Doubeleive]

Here's my Tahoe History:
I'm going to a reputable independent shop that car enthusiasts like.

I can't afford to fix the car. I don't know if there's a cheaper solution. Parts sound pricy. Labor is 30hrs of work estimated. That's for a mechanic that knows what they're doing. I'll take it in the shorts on a trade in due to the repair. Any suggestions tips or tricks are appreciated.


2019 Bought 2017 Tahoe.
2021. Rear collision. Since that day engine light came on. Drivable. I eventually take it to get fixed through insurance etc. This is when I notice a rough idle. I assume it's been going on the entire time. Body Shop said engine light/rough idle not related to damage caused. They fix the damaged things. Still has rough idle. That's fine if it's not related. I don't know what the issue is. Engine light mostly on. Sometimes goes away. intermittent. Maybe weird sensor.

2023 I renew my registration and pass no issues DEQ. Same engine light at times and rough idle at times.

2025 need to renew my registration but it doesn't pass DEQ. It'd passed before. Misfire and upper lower oil leaks. Also suspension is shot the ride was not smooth. I fix oil leaks and spark plugs and replace front struts rear shocks. $6500. I'm supposed to drive it 40-50mi before I can DEQ pass. It seems to run fine all weekend. Suspension is noticeable improvement.
Monday engine light comes back on. 1 time misfire, doesn't repeat. Stills pretty good maybe a rough start. Attributed it to possible octane difference is gas after filling up. i did gas up at a different location. Resets sensor. It comes back on.

Rough idle returns. Eventually rough idle returns. I got back in. "Ignition wire might have some corrosion so possible it's not delivering enough juice to spark plugs. Replace ignition wires. BUT notices afterward that Rough Idle still persists. Kept it overnight. Coolant and oil getting into cylinder heads. Solution replace cylinder heads, gaskets and valve stem seals. Parts cost: $3500 Labor $5800. total $9k. Would it be cheaper to replace the engine? There's a Pick-N-Pull 2017 Tahoe 100 miles north of me. I don't know what parts cost. Seems cheaper.

Below are the codes/notes from recent work.


|Codes: -P0300 - Misfire detected. -P050D - Rough Idle. Cleared codes, monitored misfires through a scan tool, under load cylinders 1, 3, 4, 5, 6 were intermittently misfiring. Injectors and coil packs work good with no misfires. Checked spark plugs, porcelain look good. Recommend replacing all spark plug wires, as many of the wires have internal corrosion. After replacing the wires, the issue didn't go away. Noted that this vehicle has been in for this issue back in April, I looked up TSB's and there's a TSB for these exact codes (P0300 & P050D) saying the liners in the heads give out and leak coolant into the cylinders. Block test passed, but on a warm engine. Need to block test again after the engine fully cools down. Pulled out several spark plugs, put a bore scope into the cylinders and 3/3 cylinders that I've checked are all wet on the inside and the cylinder walls are glazey. Need to pressurize the cooling system and see if there's a leak once the engine is cool. Preferably need to leave the car over night. After pressurizing the cooling system over night, PSI dropped. Checked the cylinders in the morning, noticed valve stems leaking and coolant present in the cylinders. Recommend replacing cylinder heads, head gaskets and valve stem seals.|REPLACE - Ignition Wires

your getting taken for a ride, at that price you could have a brand new engine.

 

[Doubeleive]

you should get that "quote" printed and post photos here so we can show you were the "vaseline" should be placed

 

[Tonyv__]

your getting taken for a ride, at that price you could have a brand new engine.

OP mentions
“I'm going to a reputable independent shop that car enthusiasts like.”

I can’t help but to think this is a speed shop or they simply charge based on their reputation. That price is ridiculous

 

[the 18th letter]

OP mentions
“I'm going to a reputable independent shop that car enthusiasts like.”

I can’t help but to think this is a speed shop or they simply charge based on their reputation. That price is ridiculous

First thing I thought when I read “enthusiast shop”. A place where the reputation precedes them and as a result doesn’t come in at the low end of bids.

 

[fasteddy]

$9K for heads is muy high and he didn't recommend DOD delete means he lacks experience with GM engines.
Shop around. Head work and DOD delete for a 17 should be around $5K-$6K. And that's allowing for new injectors and rails which never comes off clean.

Just for reference, a friend just had a dealer in SoCal here do a new crate motor (5.3) and trans (6L80) in his 15 Tahoe for $15K....all new, full 2 year warranty.
I think thats a pretty good deal given the cost of new Tahoe (Lowest LS 2WD=$62K). Still a time bomb w/o DOD delete. hahahaha.

 

[joe_joe]

Sadly, that quote is relatively spot on. Did you get a print out? It will have fee's for A/C drain and recharge, oil disposal fee and then the cost of an oil change, don't forget the price of tuning, etc... All of the little things begin adding up fast.

I have a '15 Suburban (L83) and lost lifter #5. It shredded inside the motor and gnarled up the cam pretty good.

Fortunately for me, my best friend owns a shop so my rebuild cost me $5000 total. It cost that much because the motor had 140k when it went up and since there was all kinds of metal in the motor/oil pan we pulled the engine out and tore it down to the block to clean out all the needle barings and metal shards.

Ended up replacing EVERY seal, gasket, o-ring you name it. Did the rear main seal while it was out as well. I bought the DOD delete kit with a stage one TS cam, added ****** shorty headers, and an aftermarket intake.

Like I said, all that cost almost $5g's because of all the extras I added while I had it apart.

Now my dad has a 2019 RST Tahoe with the L86 and lives in Florida. He was quoted $9g's to do all the same things we did to mine. Very similar situation, local guy, highly regarded, etc... He hasn't had any rough idle or check engine lights yet. He was simply being proactive and seeing what it would cost should it happen.

GM keeps raising the prices on these new SUV's knowing your average working man won't pay those crazy prices. So, guys like us on this forum look to rebuild what GM should be covering out of THEIR pocket, not ours.

Good luck to you. If you have any questions feel free to hit me up.

 

[PatDTN]

Just a tip about passing emission tests with a flex fuel engine. Run the tank very low and fill with E85 for two tank fulls. Lower emission right there.

 

[Doubeleive]

for you suckers getting your backhole reamed for $9k for a "engine repair" note that a brand new/fully rebuilt L83 is just under $4k almost everywhere with warranty.
and it typically does not cost $5k to install
you can also pick up a used L83 for around $2500 if you shop around
I will add that it is hard for me to fathom a quality shop not mentioning or offering the option to just replace the engine instead, although they may also ream you just as well.
i can only suggest going forward by educating yourself as to what your options are and the cost involved by simply googling or calling around to get a better idea.
if your motor is a L86 that engine price is bumped up to just under $6k, then your more into that $9k range (but with a new motor instead)

 

[West 1]

I removed the heads on my 08 Escalade because of a dropped valve. Also found one damaged piston that had not damaged the cylinder. Shop charged $800 to rebuild both heads. With the pan off at 175000 miles the engine bearings I inspected looked great so I replaced the one piston, went with new oil pump, all hoses gaskets, Lifters, water pump, thermostat belts and fluids. Engine ran like brand new again. Heads $800, parts $1300. Took me about a week but I did not keep track of hours. Probably approached 40 hours with cleaning etc. Keep in mind my job also involved pulling the front differential and Oil pan to reach the connecting rods so I could replace the bad piston. A valve job does not include all that extra labor. I figure on most jobs a good shop can do in 10 hours what takes me 15-20 hours and that is OK with me. Some don't have the experience or tools for this type job and that is fine. If I can get the parts and heads done for $2100 a shop can get the parts and heads for at least the same if not better. Even at $180 per hour in a shop and 12 hours shop time you are at $2150 in labor so I can't see the job costing more than $4500. It is common knowledge that most shops double the cost of parts, they buy them for $100 you will be charged $200. They all do it and state it covers warranty if they have to do the job again. OK, they have overhead and other expenses. Where you are makes a difference also. Los Angeles is much more expensive than Alabama for example.