New brake lines in, bleeder questions

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Randy Whistler

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Well, after some time, I've finally got the replacement rear brake line in. I will say that most of the stories you hear about replacing that back brake line are true. . . but that's a different discussion.

I'm ready to bleed out the lines, and have a couple simple questions:

First, what size are the bleeders? I tried all the SAE size tube wrenches I've got and they all felt like they were a tad too large. I got out one of my deep metric sockets, and that seemed to fit, but I couldn't budge the bleeder.

Second, how likely is the bleeder to break when I try to get it out? I'm concerned that something may break off when trying to open the bleeder. Is this going to be a problem, or am I being over pessimistic? If it does break, how do I get the remaining part(s) out? Easy-outs?

And finally, I've used the MityVac bleeders(and their many clones) several times before, and intend to get one again for this job, but thought I'd ask if there are any better, not super expensive, options before getting one. Unfortunately, this has to be a one-man job, no one around to help bleed.

As always, TIA.
 

TM98

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I’ve used the motive bleeder on many vehicles and it has been great. I just bought the adapter for my Yukon to be able to do in the near future.
 

PG01

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If the bleeders are that tight, and rusty... no good dude. I would spray the crap out of them and then use vise grips and go slow and then replace them.
 
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Randy Whistler

Randy Whistler

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If the bleeders are that tight, and rusty... no good dude. I would spray the crap out of them and then use vise grips and go slow and then replace them.

I was afraid you'd say that. . . . :( but thanks, that's good information that I needed to know.

At least the guys down at the auto parts store are getting to know me better.
 

PNWMuseumman

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I've had the best luck on all of my cars bleeders using line wrenches, they wrap around the bleeder a little better. I discovered that after breaking 2 off of my wifes jetta right after we first go married. (Her first introduction to hearing profanities being yelled in the garage while she was inside the house...) I won't touch a bleeder now without a line wrench

*Also known as a flare nut wrench I believe. 71+j-zC4pLL._SL1333_.jpg
 

HiHoeSilver

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I've had the best luck on all of my cars bleeders using line wrenches, they wrap around the bleeder a little better. I discovered that after breaking 2 off of my wifes jetta right after we first go married. (Her first introduction to hearing profanities being yelled in the garage while she was inside the house...) I won't touch a bleeder now without a line wrench

*Also known as a flare nut wrench I believe.View attachment 195698

This. Flare wrench fo sho. Like @Galante said too. If they're that tight, put kroil on there and give it a bit. Just worry about getting them out without breaking them and plan on replacing them.
 

PG01

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I've had the best luck on all of my cars bleeders using line wrenches, they wrap around the bleeder a little better. I discovered that after breaking 2 off of my wifes jetta right after we first go married. (Her first introduction to hearing profanities being yelled in the garage while she was inside the house...) I won't touch a bleeder now without a line wrench

*Also known as a flare nut wrench I believe.View attachment 195698
Yes but if they are that rusty that wrench is just gonna spin...more than likely he will break one but ive gotten lucky on a few occasions...vise grips since they are toast anyway.... you know how it is since you experienced it first hand..;)
 

TM98

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Are these metric or standard sizes? Trying to figure out which flare wrenches to get.
 

Rocket Man

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Use an 8 point deep socket and if that fails vise grips. And yes have replacements ready. Then use a line wrench because you can't use a socket when doing the actual bleeding. The Motiv bleeder will amaze you that it's so easy. BTW I just installed a pair of reman ACDelco calipers and one had a 10 mm and one an 11 mm. bleeder.
 
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Randy Whistler

Randy Whistler

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Are these metric or standard sizes? Trying to figure out which flare wrenches to get.

I have a set of SAE and they do not appear to fit correctly. I'm going to get a set of metrics just to add to the toolbox, and hopefully those will work. If not, the vise grips are oiled up and ready. . .
 

M1Gunner

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Which ever you use, I prefer a metric mid size socket to break them free, don’t just go turning the bleeder completely left. Once it’s pops free turn back right a hair then continue left. Work it back and forth in a two step forward one step back ratio. 1/4 to left 1/8 back right for example. I always soak the fittings with PB blaster then go get the tools I need giving it a minute to *********. Only penetrating oil that I’ll use on flare nuts and bleeders anything with brake lines anymore, never done me wrong.

If the bleeder does happen to snap for whatever reason, don’t panic, one thing you’ll not have to worry about is if it’s gonna leak lol
 
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Randy Whistler

Randy Whistler

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First, thanks to everyone who's offered suggestions and help. It's greatly appreciated!! At least I feel like I'm not too far off the mark.

(For a little quick background, this truck was abandoned outside in a storage area for over 1 1/2 years before I grabbed it. Overall, it's in amazingly good shape for being 18 years old, and maintenance records in the truck lead me to believe that someone took good care of it before abandoning it. Because it was setting for so long, I'm more willing to consider more extreme measures to remove any other problems that might come up. So far, other than the stupid brake line, it's not been bad - runs good, drives good, etc.)

Here's something I've been thinking about(and it's always dangerous when I start thinking) - there are 2 scenarios that play out for me.

First, the bleeder pops loose, everything is all good, brakes bleed and we're all done!

Second, something happens to the bleeder - crushes, breaks, whatever - which means changing out at minimum a bleeder, if not wheel cylinder or more.


For the first scenario, that would be the ideal and simplest. However, on this truck, nothing has been simple, so I'm not holding my breath. On to part 2 . . .

The second one I suspect is more likely - something is going to happen to the bleeder and it will require significant effort. Of course, if it's as simple as getting the stuck bleeders out and replacing them, great, but should one break inside the cylinder

So, with all that babbling, I've been thinking about just replacing both calipers. They're not that expensive, would be 2 bolts each to remove(after compressing the piston(s) ), flare nut and then bleed and be done.

With all the other stuff that has happened with this truck, I'm thinking that might be money well spent - not to mention time and effort saved! Anyone else crazy enough to go to this extreme???
 

PG01

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I was going to suggest new calipers, loaded ones, being you have to bleed anyway. If you were trying to save money, yes just bleeders but I cant tell you if the calipers are in the best shape. Honestly, easiest way is new calipers, more expensive but well worth it imo
 

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