OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
I also forgot to share this, these are the brushes i used to clean out my new pushrods.
Just Fishing's 09 Tahoe Build thread
- Thread starter Just Fishing
- Start date
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OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Well i decided to go back through my tune and make some adjustments to the transmisison.
So i started editing the one i thought i had flashed the hoe with, and found it has the trailblazer SS timing map
so i decided to just pull a fresh one from the hoe.
sure enough, trailblazer ss timing.
I don't know what/where the fk i did with the timing...
so i proceed to make two new files.
One with the 6.2 timing
and one with the 6.0 HD timing.
So just for general reference.
6.0 trailblazer SS High Octane timing.
6.0 2500 HD timing.
6.2 escalade timing
This is just a general overview, other tables add and remove from the table.
So i loaded up the HD timing first.
Runs a little better, More top end!
No real pinging notices in the log, maybe 1 degree.
I like it better than the SS timing, engine seems smoother.
So then i decide, wth lets load up the 6.2 timing
Oh baby!!!
Me likey!
More power everywhere.
the hoe is happy.
logging, i'm seeing just a few degrees of timing retard due to knock sensor input.
Not a huge amount, but enough that i put it back to the 2500HD timing for now.
I'll play with it later, after engine break-in, and with a full take of premium.
So i started editing the one i thought i had flashed the hoe with, and found it has the trailblazer SS timing map
so i decided to just pull a fresh one from the hoe.
sure enough, trailblazer ss timing.
I don't know what/where the fk i did with the timing...
so i proceed to make two new files.
One with the 6.2 timing
and one with the 6.0 HD timing.
So just for general reference.
6.0 trailblazer SS High Octane timing.
6.0 2500 HD timing.
6.2 escalade timing
This is just a general overview, other tables add and remove from the table.
So i loaded up the HD timing first.
Runs a little better, More top end!
No real pinging notices in the log, maybe 1 degree.
I like it better than the SS timing, engine seems smoother.
So then i decide, wth lets load up the 6.2 timing
Oh baby!!!
Me likey!
More power everywhere.
the hoe is happy.
logging, i'm seeing just a few degrees of timing retard due to knock sensor input.
Not a huge amount, but enough that i put it back to the 2500HD timing for now.
I'll play with it later, after engine break-in, and with a full take of premium.
OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
For wth, i opened up the 08 escalade timing.
i might try it next..
i might try it next..
OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Last night i did some thinking about some valvetrain noise i hear under light load at around 3200-4000 rpm.
It's been bugging me a bit since it seems to be getting louder.
Maybe i need longer push rods, lifter is being difficult/faulty, or maybe I need to ensure i fully torqued them down all the way.
The sound reminds me of my old S10, if you get the throttle cable routed incorrectly, it can pulsate some engine noise right down the cable into the passenger compartment.
but there are no cables that could do that in the tahoe...
Other option is the hard line i used for the catch can.
but i have that setup with rubber flex joints, and lined with the same stuff anywhere it makes contact with anything hard.
Mostly to prevent wear, but it should also sound deaden.
Then i remembered something, the 1.8 rockers.
I did some reliving of the valve cover to prevent this issue.
It's possible that in this area of rpm, i have enough oil pressure that the rockers are moving up more and hitting the valve cover.
I did some driving around last night to repro the sound, and with the windows down.
It's louder outside the truck than i thought, but it's still hard to hear unless i'm driving against a wall or another car.
If they are even slightly coming up and hitting the valve cover, then there is my issue.
So my task later today, pull the valve cover on the driver side.
if I see signs of contact, more reliving.
and I'll probably do the same to the passenger side if it's found.
from there, I'll probably bite the bullet and order some spacers and the updated valve cover.
I'm crossing my fingers that this is the issue, but i doubt I'm that lucky.
It's been bugging me a bit since it seems to be getting louder.
Maybe i need longer push rods, lifter is being difficult/faulty, or maybe I need to ensure i fully torqued them down all the way.
The sound reminds me of my old S10, if you get the throttle cable routed incorrectly, it can pulsate some engine noise right down the cable into the passenger compartment.
but there are no cables that could do that in the tahoe...
Other option is the hard line i used for the catch can.
but i have that setup with rubber flex joints, and lined with the same stuff anywhere it makes contact with anything hard.
Mostly to prevent wear, but it should also sound deaden.
Then i remembered something, the 1.8 rockers.
I did some reliving of the valve cover to prevent this issue.
It's possible that in this area of rpm, i have enough oil pressure that the rockers are moving up more and hitting the valve cover.
I did some driving around last night to repro the sound, and with the windows down.
It's louder outside the truck than i thought, but it's still hard to hear unless i'm driving against a wall or another car.
If they are even slightly coming up and hitting the valve cover, then there is my issue.
So my task later today, pull the valve cover on the driver side.
if I see signs of contact, more reliving.
and I'll probably do the same to the passenger side if it's found.
from there, I'll probably bite the bullet and order some spacers and the updated valve cover.
I'm crossing my fingers that this is the issue, but i doubt I'm that lucky.
Last edited:
08z71bgm
Full Access Member
Don’t pull timing if you have KR add more fuel via maf hz it’s retarding at and go out and repeat and see if it’s still there. Keep adding fuel this way until no more KR exists or it doesn’t make a difference and only then you should retard the timing table in ** and make sure the LO table corresponds with the same decrease.
08z71bgm
Full Access Member
Oh yeah almost forgot if you do not have dod/afm I would suggest using 2010-2015 camaro ls3 manual tune file for the best n/a timing. IIRC you are using the ls3 cam anyways.
pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
Mine has that noise when the oil is fully warmed. Longer pushrod is the solution for me I think.Last night i did some thinking about some valvetrain noise i hear under light load at around 3200-4000 rpm.
It's been bugging me a bit since it seems to be getting louder.
Maybe i need longer push rods, lifter is being difficult/faulty, or maybe I need to ensure i fully torqued them down all the way.
The sound reminds me of my old S10, if you get the throttle cable routed incorrectly, it can pulsate some engine noise right down the cable into the passenger compartment.
but there are no cables that could do that in the tahoe...
Other option is the hard line i used for the catch can.
but i have that setup with rubber flex joints, and lined with the same stuff anywhere it makes contact with anything hard.
Mostly to prevent wear, but it should also sound deaden.
Then i remembered something, the 1.8 rockers.
I did some reliving of the valve cover to prevent this issue.
It's possible that in this area of rpm, i have enough oil pressure that the rockers are moving up more and hitting the valve cover.
I did some driving around last night to repro the sound, and with the windows down.
It's louder outside the truck than i thought, but it's still hard to hear unless i'm driving against a wall or another car.
If they are even slightly coming up and hitting the valve cover, then there is my issue.
So my task later today, pull the valve cover on the driver side.
if I see signs of contact, more reliving.
and I'll probably do the same to the passenger side if it's found.
from there, I'll probably bite the bullet and order some spacers and the updated valve cover.
I'm crossing my fingers that this is the issue, but i doubt I'm that lucky.
OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Kinda what i was originally thinking.
I have a set of 7.4s, but they did pump metal.
Hoping it's just the valve cover.
Things came up, so I'm hoping to tackle the job tomorrow....
08z71bgm
Full Access Member
Hope you have a wideband coming in the mail so you can finish tuning it properly before you blow it up
OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
iamdub
Full Access Member
They're just metal tubes. There's nothing to be affected if tiny metal particles went through them. But, if the ball tips are scored, then they're junk. If just polished and not bent, they're good.
OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
got something new last night
P1400
Apparently it's related to the expected airflow vs what was detected during cold start.
I'm assuming there is another table that i need to copy over.
I did copy over the cat heating table...
or the other thing, but we don't talk about fight club.
(Off switch)
P1400
Apparently it's related to the expected airflow vs what was detected during cold start.
I'm assuming there is another table that i need to copy over.
I did copy over the cat heating table...
or the other thing, but we don't talk about fight club.
(Off switch)
08z71bgm
Full Access Member
Yeah because it needs a proper tune. What did you change from the original tune?got something new last night
P1400
Apparently it's related to the expected airflow vs what was detected during cold start.
I'm assuming there is another table that i need to copy over.
I did copy over the cat heating table...
or the other thing, but we don't talk about fight club.
View attachment 344702
(Off switch)
OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
The original trailblazer ss tune, it still has the same fueling stuff from the first run.
But it does have that timing map from the 2500hd.
I'll look at putting the trailblazer ss timing map back for now.
Just the 2500hd is so much smoother.
Only real difference is the higher revs.
I have been thinking about a hybrid between the two.
Just knock down that higher load stuff pretty much.
But the hoe has been benched for now, it's clearly not ready for longer drives until it's 100%
As for knock count checks, so far it's a draw between the tech2 and hp tuners.
Hp tuners is nice because of tue smaller dongel.
Tech2 sticks out and i have to be careful when driving.
I managed to bump it and caused a disconnect...
But it does have that timing map from the 2500hd.
I'll look at putting the trailblazer ss timing map back for now.
Just the 2500hd is so much smoother.
Only real difference is the higher revs.
I have been thinking about a hybrid between the two.
Just knock down that higher load stuff pretty much.
But the hoe has been benched for now, it's clearly not ready for longer drives until it's 100%
As for knock count checks, so far it's a draw between the tech2 and hp tuners.
Hp tuners is nice because of tue smaller dongel.
Tech2 sticks out and i have to be careful when driving.
I managed to bump it and caused a disconnect...
OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Oh one other thing i changed.
The volume of the intake.
The trailblazer ss had a different volume than what the 5.3 had.
I thought the ss had the same intake, but now I'm not totally sure.
I can try flipping the value back to see if it helps.
But it took several days to get that p1400 to pop up.
Maybe because of the cold starts, i didn't allow it to warm fully because of shuffle cars around.
Focus has shifted to the wifes car.
Routed a drain tube for her catch can.
And i have been flushing fluids, transmission for now.
Next brakes and power steering fluid.
I also found her car had the original battery!
I started noticing a slower sounding start here and there.
So i popped the battery access hatch, found an ac delco battery with no date codes.
So i texted the original owner that we bought it from, sure enough.
Original!
10 year old battery!!
So she got a new one from costco for good measure.
The volume of the intake.
The trailblazer ss had a different volume than what the 5.3 had.
I thought the ss had the same intake, but now I'm not totally sure.
I can try flipping the value back to see if it helps.
But it took several days to get that p1400 to pop up.
Maybe because of the cold starts, i didn't allow it to warm fully because of shuffle cars around.
Focus has shifted to the wifes car.
Routed a drain tube for her catch can.
And i have been flushing fluids, transmission for now.
Next brakes and power steering fluid.
I also found her car had the original battery!
I started noticing a slower sounding start here and there.
So i popped the battery access hatch, found an ac delco battery with no date codes.
So i texted the original owner that we bought it from, sure enough.
Original!
10 year old battery!!
So she got a new one from costco for good measure.
OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
As i sit here going down memory lane...
Ultimate AFM delete performed on my build!
Ultimate AFM delete performed on my build!
OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Well, i did some timing adjustments in the tune.
Reduced the overall timing in the 10 degree and over cells by a few points in the high octane.
Really reduced timing in the low rpm high load table.
(500-1000 rpm)
And the high load timing jump, i made that a little shorter, reducing timing for high load overall.
Then went through the low octane timing and matched thst up, and using another timing table to match up the expected timing reduction.
Then knocked a good 5-10 degrees from that.
Seems to run fine, but my low rpm torque sure suffered!
Doing a little logging with the tech2, im no longer seeing that 2 degree of timing retard.
And the misfire map looks clean.
For now it's good enough to drive around town should i need to.
But i have a set of new oem nb O2 sensors on order.
And while I'm in there, it's getting a wideband.
I do worry about the wb being right at the exit of the cat.
I have issues just with the long tubes in the ol vette, those things can be a bit fragile.
And about $80 a pop.
For the hoe, i still might just have an o2 bung installed before what i think is the middle cat.
Reduced the overall timing in the 10 degree and over cells by a few points in the high octane.
Really reduced timing in the low rpm high load table.
(500-1000 rpm)
And the high load timing jump, i made that a little shorter, reducing timing for high load overall.
Then went through the low octane timing and matched thst up, and using another timing table to match up the expected timing reduction.
Then knocked a good 5-10 degrees from that.
Seems to run fine, but my low rpm torque sure suffered!
Doing a little logging with the tech2, im no longer seeing that 2 degree of timing retard.
And the misfire map looks clean.
For now it's good enough to drive around town should i need to.
But i have a set of new oem nb O2 sensors on order.
And while I'm in there, it's getting a wideband.
I do worry about the wb being right at the exit of the cat.
I have issues just with the long tubes in the ol vette, those things can be a bit fragile.
And about $80 a pop.
For the hoe, i still might just have an o2 bung installed before what i think is the middle cat.
OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Weighing in just buying a new wideband (AEM) vs using my innovate wb that's currently in the vette.
I'm thinking this is the one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0184TSI84
Thoughts?
I'm thinking this is the one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0184TSI84
Thoughts?
cooki3mnster
Full Access Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2021
- Posts
- 114
- Reaction score
- 169
I have that one in my Chevelle. It works great. To be honest I haven’t messed with any of the more advanced features that it has but for what I use it for it’s great
