Just Fishing's 09 Tahoe Build thread

[Just Fishing]

Never did much data logging, but i had no problem with regular with the 5.3.
I also never got a chance to haul the boat up the canyon...

 

[Just Fishing]

and i have two gallons of Lucas SAE 30 engine break-in oil on order.
overkill, but it cost less than the VR1 that i was planning to use.

Came up when i noticed that summits and amazon's price doubled for the VR1 stuff over the last few days.
found i could get the Lucas stuff for reasonable amount.

 

[iamdub]

I got my pistons!
did a quick mock up with one of them, perfect fit on the rod bushings (phew)

So looking at it, with the piston at TDC.
the top of the crown is roughly .008 from the top of the deck.

My gasket shows ".048" compressed thickness.

so my Quench will be pretty freaking loose.


So i can either try and find a different supplier of headgasket to meet my quench needs.
Or have the machine shop deck the the block to match up with the head gaskets available...
looking around, i should be targeting something like .030 - .040 quench
Does that sound right?

I've always known factory gaskets to compress to .051"-.052".

Since it's a new build (fresh bearings, etc.), all iron, and you're not looking to spin it beyond 6K, I'd aim for .035" quench. I went with .037" on mine due to 200K miles, original bearings, etc. I also measured all of the pistons to find the height of each individually. IIRC, mine were all .010"-.011" out the hole. I used an old gasket and clay to measure the PTV clearance, subtracting for the planned thinner Cometics.

 

[iamdub]

Hmm. Someone smarter than me will have to chime in but I' pretty sure you'll be in premium fuel range. IIRC you can mill down 317 and make it the same as a 243/799

317 flows like a 243/799. But, due to their larger chamber, if you milled them enough to reach 243/799 volume, you'd have dangerously close PTV. You also have to base everything off of measured volume since GM heads are almost always larger than advertised.

 

[pwtr02ss]

317 flows like a 243/799. But, due to their larger chamber, if you milled them enough to reach 243/799 volume, you'd have dangerously close PTV. You also have to base everything off of measured volume since GM heads are almost always larger than advertised.

The smarter person chimed in

 

[iamdub]

The smarter person chimed in

I believe "knowledgeable in obscurities" is much more befitting than "smarter".

 

[Just Fishing]

Welp, i made a decision on the torque converter.

I'm not sure if I'm going to regret it.
But i decided i wanted gas mileage, and to keep some of the heat down.
Something i fight with the vette and its high stall.

High altitude, and the summer heat here...

So i went with the Circle D low stall with double clutch disks.

Should let me enable some of the lower speed lockups...

I wish circle d had a more midrange stall.
Say 2200 - 2400.

As it sits, i ordered the 2000 rpm stall....

I think the factory stall was something like 1600 when i googled the pn on my converter the other day.


So, next order of business.
Replace the front pump seal with the converter?

I have never replaced one with the pump still installed...

 

[pwtr02ss]

Pump seal is up to you. You should be able to change it out though. If its still pliable and no visible damage, not sure I'd mess with it.

 

[Just Fishing]

I've always known factory gaskets to compress to .051"-.052".

Since it's a new build (fresh bearings, etc.), all iron, and you're not looking to spin it beyond 6K, I'd aim for .035" quench. I went with .037" on mine due to 200K miles, original bearings, etc. I also measured all of the pistons to find the height of each individually. IIRC, mine were all .010"-.011" out the hole. I used an old gasket and clay to measure the PTV clearance, subtracting for the planned thinner Cometics.

I kept my old head gaskets just for this.

Also might be a good thing that the top of the piston is lower than the top of the block.

Machine shop told me to mock up one piston and check the clearance.
I'm also thinking i should begin final assembly during that time.

Camshaft, crank, and atleast one piston.

One important thing will be piston to valve clearance... lol
I doubt I'll have an issue, it's not like my Camshaft has all that much lift.


Reminds me, i need to order some of that plastic type modeling clay... lol

 

[Just Fishing]

Welp, i got my converter.
Circle D sure does well with the packaging!

UPS smashed the fk out of the box.
I already took out the t-shirt and the pen before this picture...

New converter bolts, locktite, and some shims included.
nice!

I ordered a new input shaft o-ring.
Once that arrives i'll yank the old converter and install the new one.



And I called the machine shop on Friday.
Been two weeks now, they have not yet gotten to my stuff yet.

He thinks maybe they can start on it today.

I'm not going to push them too hard yet, i would prefer it done right vs quickly...

It does bring up the issue, i still want them to do some work on my heads.
If I'm looking at another 3+ weeks, then i might be better off rocking the heads as they sit, and with the full 10.1:1 compression.

 

[iamdub]

Welp, i got my converter.
Circle D sure does well with the packaging!

UPS smashed the fk out of the box.
I already took out the t-shirt and the pen before this picture...

View attachment 277468

New converter bolts, locktite, and some shims included.
nice!

I ordered a new input shaft o-ring.
Once that arrives i'll yank the old converter and install the new one.



And I called the machine shop on Friday.
Been two weeks now, they have not yet gotten to my stuff yet.

He thinks maybe they can start on it today.

I'm not going to push them too hard yet, i would prefer it done right vs quickly...

It does bring up the issue, i still want them to do some work on my heads.
If I'm looking at another 3+ weeks, then i might be better off rocking the heads as they sit, and with the full 10.1:1 compression.

I'm rocking my CircleD shirt as I type this. I took the stock converter off as soon as I pulled the engine and installed the new one right before the engine went back in cuz I didn't want the unsupported weight sitting on the input shaft. Supposedly, you can warp the seal if it sits for a long time.

 

[Just Fishing]

I'm rocking my CircleD shirt as I type this. I took the stock converter off as soon as I pulled the engine and installed the new one right before the engine went back in cuz I didn't want the unsupported weight sitting on the input shaft. Supposedly, you can warp the seal if it sits for a long time.

Good thought.
I was thinking keeping the converter on there would prevent dirt from getting into the pump.

 

[Just Fishing]

Ok fk it, I'm bored.
Found some bolts close enough to set the ring depth in the bore.
Looking at the fsm, it lists this for a LY6 6.0

(production)
First compression ring: 0.0079-0.0161 in
Second compression ring: 0.0146-0.0272 in

Confusing thing is the "service" spec,
First compression ring: 0.0079-0.0181 in
Second compression ring: 0.0146-0.0295 in

Going with that since this is a new engine build, it's "production" spec.

I'm expecting these to be perfect out of the box from what i have read about these rings.
crossing fingers that i don't need to fk with the rings.


Used my new circle d pen to write down the spec.

 

[iamdub]

Good thought.
I was thinking keeping the converter on there would prevent dirt from getting into the pump.

Garbage bag. Better seal and non-damaging.

 

[pwtr02ss]

I'm rocking my CircleD shirt as I type this. I took the stock converter off as soon as I pulled the engine and installed the new one right before the engine went back in cuz I didn't want the unsupported weight sitting on the input shaft. Supposedly, you can warp the seal if it sits for a long time.

my circle d shirt fits like a slarge and I'm not bulked up enough to rock that. Fat doesn't look so flattering

 

[iamdub]

my circle d shirt fits like a slarge and I'm not bulked up enough to rock that. Fat doesn't look so flattering

Lol
It's probably one of my best-fitting shirts. But, I'm mad sexy beefcake ripped.

...Except for my arms.



...And my big, round gut.



Pecs are on point, though- total "A"cup moobs.

 

[Just Fishing]

Machine shop has actually started my assembly balance as of yesterday.
Crossing my fingers for a completion this weekend.



And for block cleaning, I'm tempted to take some engine degreaser and a hose to the block.
then follow up with compressed air and some WD40 to prevent rust.

thoughts?

Otherwise, i have a case of brake clean.
I'm just not sure I'm getting enough volume to really wash that fker out.
Main thoughts would be the oil passages, I also want to use a rifle brush with that process.

Thought occurred to me when i wiped out the cylinder bore after it should have been spotless.
white glove treatment proved it was not nearly as clean as i had hoped.

 

[Just Fishing]

got my little piston ring squaring tool and went after the rings with some accuracy.

Note: The higher numbers are real tight, but close enough i called it there.

Cylinder 1
Top ring: .015
Bottom: .022

Cylinder 2
Top: .018
Bottom: .021

Cylinder 3
Top: .018
Bottom: .022

Cylinder 4
Top: .017
Bottom: .022

Cylinder 5
Top: .017
Bottom: .020

Cylinder 6
Top: .018
Bottom: .021

Cylinder 7
Top: .017
Bottom: .021

Cylinder 8
Rings are at the machine shop, but the bore checked constant if i moved measured rings into that bore.

So the GM spec says these are on the looser side/out of spec of a new build...

However, looking at this article: Everything You Need to Know About Ring Gap! (wiseco.com)
I appear to be ok.

Biggest worry was how loose the top ring fit is, but i suppose it's gtg.

Thoughts?

 

[Just Fishing]

lol, well found this on some random forum.
I'm trying to go to exact i think...

.0035 X 4.00" =.014 MINIMUM end gap for top ring
.0040 X 4.00" =.016 MINIMUM end gap for 2nd ring

 

[Just Fishing]

Mmm new A/C parts.
not in the picture, a weird looking (new) GM A/C orifice tube.

Summit sent me a drier that had the factory seal/box opened, so I'm just checking the vacuum for now...

To Summit Racing: I'm not happy with open box ac parts, especially the fkn drier!