Just Fishing's 09 Tahoe Build thread

[Just Fishing]

So brand new 6.0 block, new crank, pistons, rings, all gaskets etc.
Just reusing the 5.3 rods...

 

[Just Fishing]

Must hold back, details not figured out.
Probably doing it wrong...

....

 

[Jason in DLH]

So brand new 6.0 block, new crank, pistons, rings, all gaskets etc.
Just reusing the 5.3 rods...

View attachment 273630

Wait...you didn’t go with the 427?! Why in the world not?!

 

[Dantheman1540]

Your truck looks super clean, I love that color. I see no reason why not to do a 6.0 but personally, I would get an assembled short block so all you have to do is stick a cam and heads on it. Local machine shops always seem to take forever and cost more.

 

[Just Fishing]

Yeah, everything i can find has the 24 tooth reluctor.

Otherwise i would love to go with an assembled

 

[1BADI5]

Yeah you have to stick with 58x unless you want a lot of pain.

Beyond the crank, you have different sensor placement and types; then the wiring harness in itself.

 

[Dantheman1540]

Funny how the market availability changes, last May I was looking all over for a 24tooth 408 short block. Couldn't find one anywhere within an 8 hour drive and ended up a long local machine shop saga.

 

[Just Fishing]

Big selling point of that brand new block, it's ready to assemble.

So i would just be on the hook for a balance job for the rotating assembly.

 

[Just Fishing]

Yeah you have to stick with 58x unless you want a lot of pain.

Beyond the crank, you have different sensor placement and types; then the wiring harness in itself.

Gen 4 block would have say the knock sensor location on the side and not in the vally.

I'm not sure how important that is, but it sounds important.

I have a lot to still figure out, and i noticed fun things like a stroker crank...

I'm sure ill end up doing a mostly stock build, assuming i do go the 6.0 route.

 

[1BADI5]

A stoker crank can get tricky.......for your application I would advise against it.

 

[Just Fishing]

How much lift can the factory valve springs do?
What springs would be an upgrade if say i went with a
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12623063
(Duration at .050 in. 204/211, Lift .551/.522)

 

[Just Fishing]

Ah found it i think, these babies.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-174002

Or gm performance brand
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-19420455

 

[Just Fishing]

Well last night i spent some time reading and playing a bit with hp tuners.
I downloaded a stock 6.0 tune and noticed how much was different.

Watching some youtube last night, i got the suggestion to use a 6.2 tune in stead.
Reason is that the 6.0 tune is more for a work horse and is very mild.

6.2 tune seems to be much closer to the 5.3 tune.

The camshaft i got last time was suggested as a "non dod stock camshaft"
it's lift is under .500, the cam lobes also seemed to be a little narrower... but at the time i took the "well i can change it later"

so it looks like i'm doing a different camshaft this time, however i'm hoping to get away with some copy pasting via hp tuners.

I found a 2010 6.2 truck tune that's really close, but then just got the idea to go for an escalade...

 

[Just Fishing]

video talking me into trying the 6.2 tune,

 

[pwtr02ss]

How much lift can the factory valve springs do?
What springs would be an upgrade if say i went with a
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12623063
(Duration at .050 in. 204/211, Lift .551/.522)

I think ls-6 springs will work with that lift.

BTR will have everything you need. Check them out as well

 

[Just Fishing]

I think ls-6 springs will work with that lift.

BTR will have everything you need. Check them out as well

Brian Tooley Racing?
I'll check em out.

I like summit mostly because if it comes from their NV warehouse, i usually get it next business day.
and they are really good with returns.
(especially important with AN fittings, that can save you a small fortune)


And,
last night i tried to pull the starter, found out what a pita that is.
trans cooler lines right in the way.
and the exhaust blocks it from exiting from the wheel well.

and i also want to use the block drains to get as much coolant out as possible so I'm not spilling it everywhere in the garage.
but the front axle appears to block easy access to that as well!
I also tried to pull some wiring and decided it's going to be easier overall if i just pull the fkn front diff.

And here i was thinking "At least i don't have to pull the front diff again".
sucking it up, trying to get motivated right now...


And look it's 40 and raining outside.
guess i get to fire up the ol garage heater.

Oh and a new starter just made the parts list.
no way do i want to do that job in a parking lot.

 

[pwtr02ss]

Brian Tooley Racing?
I'll check em out.

I like summit mostly because if it comes from their NV warehouse, i usually get it next business day.
and they are really good with returns.
(especially important with AN fittings, that can save you a small fortune)


And,
last night i tried to pull the starter, found out what a pita that is.
trans cooler lines right in the way.
and the exhaust blocks it from exiting from the wheel well.

and i also want to use the block drains to get as much coolant out as possible so I'm not spilling it everywhere in the garage.
but the front axle appears to block easy access to that as well!
I also tried to pull some wiring and decided it's going to be easier overall if i just pull the fkn front diff.

And here i was thinking "At least i don't have to pull the front diff again".
sucking it up, trying to get motivated right now...


And look it's 40 and raining outside.
guess i get to fire up the ol garage heater.

Oh and a new starter just made the parts list.
no way do i want to do that job in a parking lot.

yes, Brian Tooley.

tip. Pull the intake and coil packs, front accessories, then get at the bell housing bolts.
Starter ******* sucks but take the bolt off that’s holding the wire to the frame. That allows it to drop just enough to get the nuts loose.
Factory radiator doesn’t have a drain. Looks like it, but doesn’t. Have to deal with the mess.
Manifold to Y bolts on passenger side were a *****. A good set of swivel headed sockets would come in handy here.

These are just a few of things I learned along the way with mine

 

[iamdub]

I don't recall having nearly the hurdles you're having when I did the motor in my brother's '05 4WD. There's a bracket near the oil pan that's secured with a (I think) a 10mm. Remove that bolt and the trans cooler lines should have plenty of slack.

The starter has to be turned a few ways but it comes right out.

I pull the engines with the mounts attached. Just remove the three frame side bolts.

 

[Just Fishing]

Yeah, looks like i needed to have a socket on the top side of the mount, and on the bottom.

I ended up using a ratchet and removed the bolts from the block.

And i ended up removing the cooler lines from the transmission to get the starter out.

Not knowing what type of seal it had, i was trying my best to avoid touching it.

Starter cleared just fine afterwards.

And I'll copy paste my post from last night here soon with the progress from yesterday.

Dragging my ass out of bed still.


Today is an energy drink day for sure.

 

[Just Fishing]

My Post from last night,

Spent all day on it, but I have the hoe's engine totally free except for the last three bolts at the top of the bell housing!

That little astro impact i bought a while back + these little compact swivel sockets for the win.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JBJMKXA


that little compact impact + those made this nearly effortless.
Impact: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016Q4Y5CM
(out of stock but you get the idea)

Also wtf GM, the fkn bell housing bolts all had these double threaded ends.
not too bad except for the one on the drivers side.
I had to do some serious thinking and combining of sockets in order to use air tools on that one.
No way was i going to turn a fkn wrench.


I ended up mixing the above impact sockets with these little compact ones.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JBK1FHG

stacked those babies up in order to get one hell of a short deep socket with a swivel.



Also the engine mounts, what a pita.
I have no idea how I'm going to bolt those damn things back in.



Also i don't get this one out often, but this air ratchet fkn rocks.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UB1YHVG

It can do something like 130ft lbs.
If not careful, you can pin your hand in there and bruise the fk out of your self.
I rarely ever use it to tighten bolts, had it break a few when i was first figuring it out.

--

And i opted for the "cylinder heads off" method.
but i will be paying attention to how hard those bolts will be to get to now that i can see where they are.
it sure would be easier to install the heads on the stand vs with the engine bolted in the truck.

Today (Sunday), i need to unbolt the AC compressor from the engine, and drain the power steering fluid and disconnect the pressure lines going to the pump.

hopefully i can get the engine at least loose, if not fully pulled.


Also thoughts on the connecting rods?
I was reading that the rods can't be machined, and figuring that this thing has 180k on it, the area that rides on the wrist pin may be worn out?

I would love to reuse the rods if possible, however i also don't want to pull this thing apart again.
So I'm sorta leaning towards all new parts for the 6.0.