Intermittent oil pressure loss

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scomis

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I replaced my driver side motor mount on my 2009 5.3 Tahoe 4wd and it drove fine for a few days. Then a 3 days after the motor mount replacement, while driving to work, I started to slow down for a stop and the check engine light came on. Then the oil can light came on and the oil pressure dropped. I made it where I was going, but on the way home that afternoon, I had to pull over and restart it several times as it would drop pressure and chime with the low oil pressure alert. Each time I restarted, the pressure increased to about half of normal and gradually decrease for a mile or so and then the pressure would drop to maybe 2psi on the dash gauge when I let off the accelerator and slowed for a stop.

I replaced the oil pressure switch sending unit and the filter screen with an AC Delco unit last Friday. I drove it twice on Friday night after the repair, each trip for 40 minutes in varying highway and in town driving and the oil pressure held great. Everything looked back to normal.

Then this morning when driving into work, after about 15 minutes of driving, things looked fine and then all the sudden the pressure dropped down and the chime went off when decelerating for a sharp turn. I pulled over and restarted it and was able to drive the last few minutes to work with the pressure on the gauge showing a reduced reading. Is it possible that the wiring that controls the oil pressure are somewhere near where I had to remove the driver side engine mount and maybe I damaged it? I don't even know where to start in regards to the wiring for this. When I removed the engine mount, I pulled the drivers tire and wheel well inner plastic fender. I had to remove a bunch of wires that are anchored to it. Then when I removed the mount through the side (I used the method where you dont have to remove the steering shaft and go out through the wheel well), I know that I had to work around wiring bundles and definitely rubbed and squished some, but I have no idea if the pressure problem could be related to that or not. Are there wires down there that would affect this?

Reading on the forums, they say to confirm pressure with an analog gauge. Where does this gauge screw into the engine? I am assuming pressures are fine as there are no noises and the engine still runs the same. But, obviously I cannot drive it with the chiming happening all the time.
 
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scomis

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I let it cool down to about 160 degrees and restarted it. I warmed it back up to 200 degrees and the oil pressure gradually dropped from 30psi or so at idle down to probably 5psi or so before I shut it back off. So strange, as it did not do this when I drove it on Friday after replacing the sending unit.
 
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scomis

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When I last checked, it was right in the middle of the safe zone.
 
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scomis

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The oil and filter was changed about 900 miles ago. I haven't noticed any moisture or milkshake and the coolant looks clean.
 
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scomis

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I just went out and idled it for 15 mins. When I started it up it was about 150 degrees and was about 30-35psi. When it got to 210 degrees it was between 20-22psi and held there. When I revved it to 3000rpm it got to 40-45psi and then dropped back to 20-22psi at idle. Nothing weird happened. Is it possible that the AFM is causing the weird stuff? Should I put a Range OBD2 device on? Don't even know if that is a thing. Tempted to just change the oil and filter to see if that might make a difference?? I read on the forum that maybe a motor flush before the oil change would be helpful? Just don't want to cause new problems with that.
 

strutaeng

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Umm. That's weird.

You unscrew the oil pressure sender and thread in the mechanical gauge. There's also an allen plug on the front of the engine block, driver's side. They may sell an adapter to tap into. (No, they actually do. I bought an adapter for that plug for priming the oil pump when rebuilding these engines.) The oil sender is kinda of pain to get you, I'm sure you discovered when you replaced it.

Maybe some debris broke loose and clogged the screen again? The engine mount has nothing to do with the oil pressure BTW. Must have been pure coincidence.
 
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scomis

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Yeah, thats what I thought. Seems so strange that all is fine and then it just sort of slowly decreases to virtually nothing and sets of the alarm.

I just know that I had squished some wires due to the tolerances being so tight getting that mount pulled out and put back in. Wasnt sure if maybe I cracked some insulation or a wire and the engine temp or vibrations were wigging things out. But, you'd think it would have done it right away after driving it after the mount replacement and would be more consistent.

Yeah, maybe debris? The road that I drove on today before it had the pressure drop is kind of a bumpy section. Maybe that's the cause of debris breaking loose if it clogged the filter again? Now that I have done the sending unit once, it will definitely be quicker to do it again if I have to.
 
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scomis

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I was wondering about that, but the intermittent nature of my issue made me wonder if that could be it. So, if I can check it and the analog pressure stays up, then probably not o-ring issue?
 
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scomis

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So I drove home from work and after about 15 mins of driving, the pressure started to get down about 10psi. So I revved it to 3000-3500 and it came back up again and stayed for a while. So I did that every time it dropped and then it stayed at a lower but reasonable level. So I ended up running to jiffy lube for a cheap conventional oil change to see if maybe the filter (less than 1000 miles on it) was clogged. Left jiffy Lube and the pressure is back to totally normal all the way home. Cautiously optimistic!
 

rdezs

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Sounds very typical of the oil pressure relief valve in the oil pan getting weak, or the pressure relief valve in the oil pump.
 
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scomis

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Drove it for another couple 20 minute drives and the pressure remained correct. Now just need to try it tomorrow morning when it is below freezing to see if it still responds the same!
Hoping I don’t have to try to drop the pan or change the pump anytime soon!

Thinking about putting a range device in to see if that helps with the oil consumption and maybe future oil pressure loss issues?
 

ckeister

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Watching this thread as I have similar symptoms. But I have changed the oil pick up tube, o-ring, Melling HV oil pump, VVT bolt/solenoid, cam thrust plate, and pressure sender. I think my cam bearings are shot or have one or more beginning to walk out. Thats the only thing that makes sense in my head at this point
 

donjetman

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Drove it for another couple 20 minute drives and the pressure remained correct. Now just need to try it tomorrow morning when it is below freezing to see if it still responds the same!
Hoping I don’t have to try to drop the pan or change the pump anytime soon!

Thinking about putting a range device in to see if that helps with the oil consumption and maybe future oil pressure loss issues?
here is a GM Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) that applies to your vehicle. Has it been done?
https://f01.justanswer.com/ebrock63...il+Consumption,+MIL+ON,+Engine+Runs+Rough.pdf
Install a catch can on the driver side pcv line prior to doing the TSB.
 
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scomis

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I doubt it has the new valve cover. I bought it from a friend last month and he mentioned that it has always used oil between changes and has used the same amount of oil since he bought it used with 40k miles. No visible smoke, but you can definitely smell and taste the oil burning when you stick your nose near the tail pipe.

I will need to change out that valve cover and look into the catch can. Thanks!

Do you recommend disabling the AFM with it being 175k miles? I don't notice any ticks or knocks. Seems to idle just a bit rough, but my friend gave me new plugs that he hadn't gotten around to installing, as it had been a while since they'd been changed.

Drove to work this morning. Had almost 60psi cruising when cold and dropped to about 40psi cruising when warm, so I think the oil change did the job.

I am hoping that what caused this whole fiasco was "testing out" the new motor mount after I replaced it. I got on it a few times and I doubt it had been driven like that for a long time. So I am hoping I just knocked some sludge loose and clogged up the oil filter. Maybe that is a thing, maybe it isn't?
 

Doubeleive

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I doubt it has the new valve cover. I bought it from a friend last month and he mentioned that it has always used oil between changes and has used the same amount of oil since he bought it used with 40k miles. No visible smoke, but you can definitely smell and taste the oil burning when you stick your nose near the tail pipe.

I will need to change out that valve cover and look into the catch can. Thanks!

Do you recommend disabling the AFM with it being 175k miles? I don't notice any ticks or knocks. Seems to idle just a bit rough, but my friend gave me new plugs that he hadn't gotten around to installing, as it had been a while since they'd been changed.

Drove to work this morning. Had almost 60psi cruising when cold and dropped to about 40psi cruising when warm, so I think the oil change did the job.

I am hoping that what caused this whole fiasco was "testing out" the new motor mount after I replaced it. I got on it a few times and I doubt it had been driven like that for a long time. So I am hoping I just knocked some sludge loose and clogged up the oil filter. Maybe that is a thing, maybe it isn't?
did you run the old oil thru a seeve? or was there anything on the oil pan bolt tip? not sure if these come magnetic or not, I added a magnetic one to mine
hopefully that was all it was but if metal was in there that's not a good sign.
 
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scomis

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No, unfortunately I didn't have any time to do it myself and swung into jiffy lube after work, just to see if changing the oil might help.
 

donjetman

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I doubt it has the new valve cover. I bought it from a friend last month and he mentioned that it has always used oil between changes and has used the same amount of oil since he bought it used with 40k miles. No visible smoke, but you can definitely smell and taste the oil burning when you stick your nose near the tail pipe.

I will need to change out that valve cover and look into the catch can. Thanks!

Do you recommend disabling the AFM with it being 175k miles? I don't notice any ticks or knocks. Seems to idle just a bit rough, but my friend gave me new plugs that he hadn't gotten around to installing, as it had been a while since they'd been changed.

Drove to work this morning. Had almost 60psi cruising when cold and dropped to about 40psi cruising when warm, so I think the oil change did the job.

I am hoping that what caused this whole fiasco was "testing out" the new motor mount after I replaced it. I got on it a few times and I doubt it had been driven like that for a long time. So I am hoping I just knocked some sludge loose and clogged up the oil filter. Maybe that is a thing, maybe it isn't?
There is a lot more to that TSB than just changing the valve cover.
and
The oil pump pickup o-ring is a must do item.

Proactive mx on your schedule? or reactive mx on the vehicles schedule? reliable ole vehicle? or?
 

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