if you have a grinding from the front end/bad hub..change it now!

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yooformula

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I was checking my tires by pulling from side to side but for whatever reason I wasnt thorough enough to tug from top to bottom and there is where I noticed a ton of play. I never had any abs lights come on or braking issues but there was a noticeable drop in mpgs and it would pull a bit to that side and would feel like something was hung up and dragging. To be sure for next time, I now tug on the wheel and then take the wheel off and try again with just the rotors so I can more closely. When the wheel was mounted I couldnt tell the sublte movement in the bearing so trying again with just one side lifted and the wheel pulled I got a better view. If you did all you said, maybe try pulling and tugging on the suspension components for either loose or torn bushings and bolts. My steering gear box also took a shit on one side so that could hide other issues as well but I did have low sounding grinding noises while turning.
 

afpj

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The weather got nice so I pulled the wheels off to look around. I did the pulling and pushing with one wheel up, with the tires on, and did it side to side and top/bottom. I then took one wheel off at a time and tugged on the rotors...here's where I have a question: The rotors were a bit loose, they don't seem to be on solid (there's definitely some play). I'm thinking that tugging on the rotors is NOT the correct way to test for bearing play...tugging on the part that the studs are attached to...now that part is tight, no play. Are the rotors supposed to have a little lateral play in them?
 

fire730

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here's where I have a question: The rotors were a bit loose, they don't seem to be on solid (there's definitely some play). I'm thinking that tugging on the rotors is NOT the correct way to test for bearing play...

The rotors are refferred to as "Floating Rotors" so yes they will move around when the wheel is not on. They are sandwiched between the wheel and the hub. You need to check for play with the wheel on and the vehicle raised off the ground. (Preferably by the lower control arm) But if you are just checking the hub bearings then just having the wheels off the ground is enough. HTH
 
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2yukons

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The weather got nice so I pulled the wheels off to look around. I did the pulling and pushing with one wheel up, with the tires on, and did it side to side and top/bottom. I then took one wheel off at a time and tugged on the rotors...here's where I have a question: The rotors were a bit loose, they don't seem to be on solid (there's definitely some play). I'm thinking that tugging on the rotors is NOT the correct way to test for bearing play...tugging on the part that the studs are attached to...now that part is tight, no play. Are the rotors supposed to have a little lateral play in them?

If you are pulling on the rotors with the wheel off then yes. At that point all thats holding the rotors on are the brake pads and caliper.
 

afpj

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Hey Thanks guys! Great info.

I used a garage jack to lift up under the frame rail, where you would put the bottle jack in the front. Why the lower control arm as the lift point I'm curious?
 

rpmgraphics

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Hey guys, I know this is 2 months after the last post. But is it possible to tell the difference in sounds between a bad hub and a bad axle assembly? I have that same grinding, first just when we turn right, then just intermittent all the time. Don't wanna see this hub lock up at 80mph.
 

rpmgraphics

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Anybody know what size socket for the main hub nut. somewhere along the lines of 1-3/8 ish. 2003 Tahoe, 4wd, LS.
 
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Nickleahy23

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Anybody know what size socket for the main hub nut. somewhere along the lines of 1-3/8 ish. 2003 Tahoe, 4wd, LS.

22 mm or a little bigger i believe...


i am getting another grinding when i make a right turn, which i think is the left hub, but it doesnt move when i try to wiggle it or anything, so im stumped..
 

DTS

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Way bigger. IIRC, it's a 36mm socket.

I had my right side go around 85k. Right after a McGaughy spindle install, so I thought I did something wrong. It made intermittent squeaking noise, I jacked the truck up, got no movement from the wheel and couldn't duplicate it. A day later we were scheduled to take the Tahoe down south. 1000 miles later we arrive at our destination (with no noise), unpack the truck, I take a shower and we go off to dinner. On the way back from dinner, it made some awful grinding noises on left turns and was quiet when going straight. Of course it did this now, since I didn't have my tools. Had to take it to a local indy mechanic and he replaced the bearing for $315 ($150 for the part). I then realized we escaped some serious trouble and was amazed that the road trip didn't take the bearing with it.

To add a little to the story, after our return trip, I noticed more squeaking from the right side of the truck. I couldn't believe that the bearing might be going again and now I was doubting the spindles (and my wife wasn't enjoying it). Thankfully it only ended up being the rear brake pads on the "pad low" warning squeal. So if you're truck is squeaking a little and it's not the brake pads...check the hub bearings. And you still may not be able to pinpoint it until it gets worse.
 

rpmgraphics

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Ended up being a 36mm. Tearing into it tomorrow. Mine started out as a grinding noise and feeling in the pedals while making right turns, but only on highway on/off ramps. Then it started doing it intermittently while my son was on the way home from Jersey. Everything points to the hubs, including the fact that the ABS light has been coming on intermittently too. I will let you know.......
 

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