Hurts Taking One Like This

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YukonRog

YukonRog

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Guys, I have a question. Forgive my ignorance as I've never dealt with an Automatic TC. Does the chain run all the time, or only when going to 4 wheel drive? Also, been watching videos. Could that be "Pump Knock"?
 
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YukonRog

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Man i can't answer that, i don't know for sure. I think maybe they do, and the front shaft engages when needed.
I've been under it when it was running and I don't recall the front shaft turning. Otherwise the front differential would be engaged. So my theory is the chain only turns via the clutch pack when 4 wheel drive is engaged. So therefore, that noise wouldn't be chain slap but pump knock instead. Hopefully someone with the knowledge will chime in.
 

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The front propshaft should turn all the time, I believe, but I'm not quite sure about that in 2wd. It won't turn while the truck's not in motion. The front diff is engaged and disengaged with the front diff actuator that's on the diff.

In AUTO the transfer case engages when rear wheel spin is detected, and spins the front prop shaft -- there's a speed sensor for it -- at about the same speed as the rear propshaft so that all the AUTO function has to do is actuate the front diff when commanded by the ATCM. It takes a second or two to do the switch into 4wd AUTO. In 4wd everything turns all the time (obviously).

Can you put your TC in neutral? Wonder if it makes the same sound when it's in Neutral? (Be sure to set parking brake and chock the wheels.)

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YukonRog

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The front propshaft should turn all the time, I believe, but I'm not quite sure about that in 2wd. It won't turn while the truck's not in motion. The front diff is engaged and disengaged with the front diff actuator that's on the diff.

In AUTO the transfer case engages when rear wheel spin is detected, and spins the front prop shaft -- there's a speed sensor for it -- at about the same speed as the rear propshaft so that all the AUTO function has to do is actuate the front diff when commanded by the ATCM. It takes a second or two to do the switch into 4wd AUTO. In 4wd everything turns all the time (obviously).

Can you put your TC in neutral? Wonder if it makes the same sound when it's in Neutral? (Be sure to set parking brake and chock the wheels.)

View attachment 347265
Guess that explains why there's two speed sensors right? I've never driven it in Auto, or put it in Neutral. I'll try that but 1st I think I should refill it with fluid. I'll try to pick some up tomorrow. And it makes sense the front shaft would turn while rolling. I had the "Service 4 Wheel Drive" warning on but I believed that was because I had the ABS Fuse pulled so we could drive it. Otherwise it "self corrected". That was until I replaced the Steering Wheel Position Sensor. After that was replaced and I put the ABS Fuse back in and cleared all the codes it ran fine. Other than my wife smoking the rotors and brake pads. LOL!
 
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YukonRog

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Not really anything to add here, just want to thank you for taking peoples advice into consideration after you ask for it. It is nice that people really want to learn things.




On another forum im on, right now we have a guy asking people to tell him what he wants to hear...not what reality is.
He wants to know what transmission he should swap into his truck to make it tow better. And refuses to take the advice of " its not the transmission, its the 2.73 gear thats your problem " for an answer. Even after being shown the actual ford documentation of his 300 i6, manual trans and 2.73 gear showing that ford does not recognize this truck to have towing capacity.

Sorry rant over.
 
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Ken Rolls

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The Remanufactured Transmission in my wife's 2005 Yukon has started making a noise that sounds like something is loose inside. Does it in all gear positions. The business that installed it has completely dropped off the face of the earth. So much for any warranty. I just hate the feeling of helplessness and feel totally ripped off. Being on a fixed income and old and having health issues, I still want to pull it and replace it. Is this possible to do in my driveway? I don't think I can get it into my garage. Or will I bite off more than I can chew? My wife thinks I'm nuts. Because of my health issues sometimes I'm down for weeks at a time. Could be the end of this stubborn old mule.
It sounds like the flex plate is either cracked or a bolt has loosened up. St least take the inspection cover off, and look to see if that's the case.
 
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YukonRog

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It sounds like the flex plate is either cracked or a bolt has loosened up. St least take the inspection cover off, and look to see if that's the case.
Ken thanks for your advice. I did inspect the flex plate as well as the torque converter bolts. After starting it up again I'm convinced the noise is coming from the transfer case. I can actually feel it there with my hand. My video is the length of the noise in park in this instance. Changing gears, drive, reverse, neutral, etc, the knocking only lasts 10 seconds or so.
 
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YukonRog

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Update: Been calling around getting quotes from shops and this one very friendly guy said the chain and the pump wouldn't be moving when in Park. He suggested the servo motor is attempting to engage. And that was one of my 1st thoughts. So I'm going to refill it and pull the servo motor off and see if it still makes that noise. Wish me luck!
 

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Good luck! And don't actuate the encoder motor while it's off the T/C. You can also manually attempt to change the T/C mode (2wd, neutral, etc.) using a pliers or channel lock on the shaft, but return it back to where you started from when you were removing the encoder motor. You may have to wiggle the rear propshaft to take the tension off of it while manually changing modes.

Also curious about the shape of the shaft -- is it two flats or a splined shaft? Believe these later model NBSes to be a splined shaft.
 
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YukonRog

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Good luck! And don't actuate the encoder motor while it's off the T/C. You can also manually attempt to change the T/C mode (2wd, neutral, etc.) using a pliers or channel lock on the shaft, but return it back to where you started from when you were removing the encoder motor. You may have to wiggle the rear propshaft to take the tension off of it while manually changing modes.

Also curious about the shape of the shaft -- is it two flats or a splined shaft? Believe these later model NBSes to be a splined shaft.
Thanks Fless! I'd be dumb enough to hold the encoder in my hand to see if it cycled! LOL! I'll update.
 
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YukonRog

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Okay guys, here's what I did. Found AC Delco Auto -Trak II fluid at my local Napa Auto Parts for under $10 qt. Refilled the TC. Switched it into Neutral, pulled the front prop shaft, and then removed the Encoder Motor. Started it and thought I heard something for a split second. Crawled back under and with a small pair of pliers in the widest adjustment, rotated the shaft counterclockwise. Real easy to move. Fless, you can move the shaft manually, and the encoder if it's plugged in by pushing whatever button you want. You just have to make sure they both are in the same position when reinstalling. By moving the shaft manually I believe one direction is 4 high and the other is 4 low. Started it back up and sure enough it was making the same noise. Put it all back together after realigning the shaft to the Neutral position and dropped it to the ground. Tested it in all the gears. It goes into all the gears great. Auto 4x4, 2 wheel, 4 high, Neutral, and 4 Low. Drives but makes that noise briefly in every gear. So I'm not going to drive it. The noise sounds like it's coming from the front shaft output inside the TC. I now don't believe this guy that told me the chain and pump don't move unless it's in 4x4 mode. How else could it be making this noise? Angry, tired, and disappointed. Guess it's gotta come out. I appreciate everyone's input and will welcome more if you have any!20210811_095342.jpg20210811_095228.jpg20210811_095158.jpg
 
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YukonRog

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So has anyone of you all ever rebuilt one of these transfer cases? I've been watching a lot of the videos from Precision Transmission and they actually look doable. The tech does say in one the oil pumps usually never go bad. So, I'm wondering if I just replace mine while it's open or leave it? Same with the clutch pack.
 

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So has anyone of you all ever rebuilt one of these transfer cases? I've been watching a lot of the videos from Precision Transmission and they actually look doable. The tech does say in one the oil pumps usually never go bad. So, I'm wondering if I just replace mine while it's open or leave it? Same with the clutch pack.
If it's cheap enough I'd do it--mihht as well while it's apart.
 
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YukonRog

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If it's cheap enough I'd do it--mihht as well while it's apart.
That's what I'm struggling with. My Darned OCD has me going back and forth. $50 is the least expensive clutch pack I can find and $35 for a pump. But that blows the heck out of a Benjamin right? And here's the real head scratcher, buy a new rear half case that's the "reinforced, improved" version and they still recommend a case saver for the pump wear issues. That's cheap enough but why then buy a "reinforced" case? My thought process is if it sounds like chain drag (which I really don't see how) or pump knock, then I'm covered and can return the case if I don't need it. I really hate my brain. LOL!
 

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That's what I'm struggling with. My Darned OCD has me going back and forth. $50 is the least expensive clutch pack I can find and $35 for a pump. But that blows the heck out of a Benjamin right? And here's the real head scratcher, buy a new rear half case that's the "reinforced, improved" version and they still recommend a case saver for the pump wear issues. That's cheap enough but why then buy a "reinforced" case? My thought process is if it sounds like chain drag (which I really don't see how) or pump knock, then I'm covered and can return the case if I don't need it. I really hate my brain. LOL!
To me, my labor is worth a lot more than a couple hundred in parts. I’m not ok with doing things twice or doing them halfway. I figure with the labor I’m saving, part of that money can go into better parts and I’m ahead in more ways than one. Once you’ve pulled that thing out, you won’t want to do it again, believe me. There isn’t a jack made that can get that thing into position so you get to bench press it.
 

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