HP Tuners Modifications for GM Trucks.

[LSCALADE]

Attached are my 2 files (BASE) and Tuned:

Things I have done.

Engine side:
1. Enable the flex fuel sensor.
2. Ethanol content min and max values adjusted to 0-80%.

3. Adjusted Stoick table so it reads from 14.6 to 9.

Transmission side:
I have adjusted the shift speeds and scheduling.
TCC apply speeds adjusted so they are 1mph after a gear change.
Pressure bumped from 26 to 31psi.
SLip reduced by 50%.
DOD Disabled.

I have been self learning HP tuners for exactly 1 year now, and I have figured out quite a few things and will help anyone who has any questions on the things I have done so far.
As far as tuning spark tables and other things, I am a newbie, so you've got to ask the professionals.
Feel free to compare my stock and modified V3 file to see what changes I have made. Note that all these changes were done slowly, one at a time, until I saw results.


Next on the list is AEM wide band oxygen sensor integration into the ECU With a pass through OBD plug for the gauge.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Thank you for volunteering to assist fellow Members with HP Tuners. LOTS to learn and share there, for those who want to tune their trucks themselves.

Just another reason why this Forum ROCKS!

 

[LSCALADE]

Here is a factory E85 tuned 5.3L L83 that can be used to see what was adjusted by GM engineers with factory calibration.

 

[TheBigCheezeBall]

Thanks @LSCALADE !
I have done some very basic work on my transmission:
No TCC in 1/4.
Reducing slip by 75-90%.
Turn off DFM.

I have been toying with the idea of some more changes, but somewhat held back by ignorance.

You mentioned that you changed the TCC to lock 1 mph after the shift point. It is my understanding that once it locks, it stays locked until it hits a release point (even through shifts) So only the first lock point has any effect unless you happen to hit a release first. Is that your understanding and observation? I would have thought it would unlock between shifts, but that doesn’t seem to be the case as far as I can tell.

Also do you know how you can access the TCC table for the “M” mode? I would like to prevent any TCC lock in M mode if possible.

 

[LSCALADE]

Thanks @LSCALADE !
I have done some very basic work on my transmission:
No TCC in 1/4.
Reducing slip by 75-90%.
Turn off DFM.

I have been toying with the idea of some more changes, but somewhat held back by ignorance.

You mentioned that you changed the TCC to lock 1 mph after the shift point. It is my understanding that once it locks, it stays locked until it hits a release point (even through shifts) So only the first lock point has any effect unless you happen to hit a release first. Is that your understanding and observation? I would have thought it would unlock between shifts, but that doesn’t seem to be the case as far as I can tell.

Also do you know how you can access the TCC table for the “M” mode? I would like to prevent any TCC lock in M mode if possible.

So it does not matter that much. OEM say the APPLY in 5th gear was 37mph across... but the shift was set at 40mph so even though it says lock at 37 until you actually get into the 5th gear it wont lock but what I like is a shift feel into 5th gear and slightly after you can feel the TCC lock. In other calibrations I had it lock 5mph after the shift and you feel a rubber band effect where it does pull less with same throttle until the lock occurs and then you feel bump into more power because you remove that slip and in 5th gear sometimes under load you could be doing 400-500rpm slip which is that rubber band effect im talking about.

As far as the M mode, that references the tap up tap down tables under TCC Apply Release, if you set those to high numbers the TCC in M mode wont enable.
Pattern A and B those I think are the tow haul buttons.

You may have to change one at a time and watch for slip on a log and see which one exactly is the one that does it. Because you can have TOW HAUL ON and in M mode and OFF and in M mode and depending on that it will lock or not lock.

You can also let it lock up until say 25% throttle and then unlock after that. If it slips like mine does aka Shudder its above that threshold so I just let it rip until throttle gets reduced and then relocks.

Also keep some slip, I find it that if you set it to 0rpm, the system is PWM so as soon as it reaches zero it reduces pressure then it slips then it cranks the pressure. I found on healthy TCC I keep it at something like 10rpm for lower RPM and then 5rpm slip at higher rpm and if you watch it on a gauge (SCANGAUGE3) on highway cruise it would hold it pretty darn good. If you set to 0 then it bounces from 0 to 10-15 sometimes more RPM so its all over the place.

 

[LSCALADE]

Attached is the current V4 version of my flex fuel tune that works flawless on my L83 5.3L. You can use it to make tweaks to your tune by comparing. Bone stock engine and transmission with 250k miles.

 

[Marky Dissod]

Attached is the current V4 version of my flex fuel tune that works flawless on my L83 5.3L.
You can use it to make tweaks to your tune by comparing. Bone stock engine and transmission with 250k miles.

FYI:
My guess is, for the vast majority of TYF owners/drivers, deleting V4 mode (Engine Half@$$) HARDware is a good idea, but costs delay getting it done.
Disabling V4 mode is a good idea, and much cheaper, so if you're still wasting time asking, disable V4 mode already! ...

... with one possible caveat ...
Years ago I used to lease a 2012 GMC Yukon XL SLT to drive in NYC (and occasionally neighboring states) as a for-hire vehicle (Uber/Lyft/Juno/Gett/Via).
Since it was a lease, I asked my tuner to do something very rare: I asked for MORE Engine Half@$$ than GM's OE 'tune' gave me.
Specifically, asked for Engine Half@$$ in 3rd & 4th at very light loads (cruising/coasting) as well as slightly more in 5th and 6th than GM gave me.
So as not to bore you all, mistake. Part-time V4 eventually carbonned up, MpG savings got less and less every year til V4 mode saved no money at all,
then it started to cost MORE money in oil consumption. The part-time V4 runs cooler and eventually wears out faster/further than the full-time V4.

Moral of THAT part: stop asking and disable V4 mode already, even if you have to avoid final gear to do it til you find a better disable solution.

... here comes the caveat ...
As a mid90s LT1 tuner, I can categorically state that the LT1's OverHeat Protection mode has saved one of my LT1s, and several of my tuned clients engines.
Once coolant hits 230F (GM's threshold of 257F is pointlessly late even at sea level, nevermind at altitude), it runs so rich that it cools the cylinders,
so it takes a lil longer to overheat, gives a lil more time to pull over/shut down.

So when I got my '12 Yukon XL tuned, I ALSO asked for more OverHeat Protection than GM's OE tune provided, part of it was EVEN MORE V4 mode at 230F.
I'm convinced that this particular instance of V4 mode gave me a few more valuable minutes (and gave my client some peace of mind),
which helped me get to a much safer spot to pull over shut down and wait for roadside assistance in peace, knowing that the engine was fine.

Moral of THIS PART: don't see a problem with leaving V4 mode enabled over 230F.
If you've not yet physically deleted Engine Half@$$, consider leaving it enabled, but ONLY OVER 230F.

Hope this helps.

 

[TheBigCheezeBall]

So it does not matter that much. OEM say the APPLY in 5th gear was 37mph across... but the shift was set at 40mph so even though it says lock at 37 until you actually get into the 5th gear it wont lock but what I like is a shift feel into 5th gear and slightly after you can feel the TCC lock. In other calibrations I had it lock 5mph after the shift and you feel a rubber band effect where it does pull less with same throttle until the lock occurs and then you feel bump into more power because you remove that slip and in 5th gear sometimes under load you could be doing 400-500rpm slip which is that rubber band effect im talking about.
View attachment 477968
As far as the M mode, that references the tap up tap down tables under TCC Apply Release, if you set those to high numbers the TCC in M mode wont enable.
Pattern A and B those I think are the tow haul buttons.

You may have to change one at a time and watch for slip on a log and see which one exactly is the one that does it. Because you can have TOW HAUL ON and in M mode and OFF and in M mode and depending on that it will lock or not lock.

You can also let it lock up until say 25% throttle and then unlock after that. If it slips like mine does aka Shudder its above that threshold so I just let it rip until throttle gets reduced and then relocks.

Also keep some slip, I find it that if you set it to 0rpm, the system is PWM so as soon as it reaches zero it reduces pressure then it slips then it cranks the pressure. I found on healthy TCC I keep it at something like 10rpm for lower RPM and then 5rpm slip at higher rpm and if you watch it on a gauge (SCANGAUGE3) on highway cruise it would hold it pretty darn good. If you set to 0 then it bounces from 0 to 10-15 sometimes more RPM so its all over the place.

Thanks for this, I will check out those TUTD tables this weekend. I was always confused on how that worked with Tow haul, as you can be in TUTD with tow haul on / off. The pattern B thing though makes sense. Maybe that is Tow haul in TUTD mode.

 

[LSCALADE]

Thanks for this, I will check out those TUTD tables this weekend. I was always confused on how that worked with Tow haul, as you can be in TUTD with tow haul on / off. The pattern B thing though makes sense. Maybe that is Tow haul in TUTD mode.

To be honest it doesn’t have its own tables but it’s a lock out switch that prevents upshift. So when you hit tow haul you now go to the Path B shift points and if you lock it in 2 it will only upshift to 2 but with the numbers in path B.

 

[TheBigCheezeBall]

To be honest it doesn’t have its own tables but it’s a lock out switch that prevents upshift. So when you hit tow haul you now go to the Path B shift points and if you lock it in 2 it will only upshift to 2 but with the numbers in path B.

Yeah bummer, I confirmed this today with my own tables. FWIW tow haul mode on mine is actually pattern A. I know this changes from vehicle to vehicle though for reasons unknown to me. I think I might give your converter strategy a shot. Basically I want it to lock and stay locked only under around 30% throttle (or crusing throttle). Not positive though how the extra locks / unlock might affect longevity.

I would really love a way to just disable it on demand with a button / switch.

Still thinking …

 

[LSCALADE]

Yeah bummer, I confirmed this today with my own tables. FWIW tow haul mode on mine is actually pattern A. I know this changes from vehicle to vehicle though for reasons unknown to me. I think I might give your converter strategy a shot. Basically I want it to lock and stay locked only under around 30% throttle (or crusing throttle). Not positive though how the extra locks / unlock might affect longevity.

I would really love a way to just disable it on demand with a button / switch.

Still thinking …

I hava a bad TC on my 2011 Escalade and that is what I did, under Tow Haul mode I allow lock up in 5 and 6 but anythinb above 30% throttle it unlocks and lets it rip, and in nomraml mode its disabled. Yeah it does hurt MPG a little bit but it buys me time to get the TC changed. ON my suburban I applied the same strategy, above I think 45% throttle inpuit the TC unlocks and it feels like a half gear downshift.

 

[Marky Dissod]

I have a bad TC on my 2011 Escalade and that is what I did, under Tow/Haul mode I allow lock up in 5th & 6th but anything above 30% throttle it unlocks and lets it rip,
and in normal mode its disabled. Yeah it does hurt MpG a little bit, but it buys me time to get the TC changed.
On my suburban I applied the same strategy, above I think 45% throttle input the TC unlocks and it feels like a half gear downshift.

You mean you have a bad torque converter CLUTCH, yea?

I've just inferred an interesting question:
At SOME POINT before the transmission fails,
would tuning the tcm specifically to avoid any TCC lockup at all whatsoever, extend the life of the 6L80 / 8L90 / 10L80?;
since their chief failure mode is when the TCC schidts itself and uses the transmission as its diaper?
NOT saying the transmission will last 'forever', or even 2x as long.

 

[LSCALADE]

You mean you have a bad torque converter CLUTCH, yea?

I've just inferred an interesting question:
At SOME POINT before the transmission fails,
would tuning the tcm specifically to avoid any TCC lockup at all whatsoever, extend the life of the 6L80 / 8L90 / 10L80?;
since their chief failure mode is when the TCC schidts itself and uses the transmission as its diaper?
NOT saying the transmission will last 'forever', or even 2x as long.

Yes, I set mine so that in D there is no lock up but I have a big cooler so the trans never gets over 110F.
ON the Tow Haul mode I have it set to lock up in 5 and 6 but unlock over 50% throttle. This has made it last now an entire year of driving. New TC is waiting to go in but I dont have time.

 

[WingsAA]

If you've added the FF sensor and are running FF, there are a few other things you need to change.

Under - Fuel System>Diagnostics

Under - Engine Diag>DTCs

Finally, this is a little deeper and not talked about much, so I'm not going into detail here to explain. In short, check your Alcohol Multiplier table for the injector flow rate... it may not be right. A tell-tale sign it's not right is: After you've dialed in your Airflow (Fuel Trims) on gasoline, when you switch over to ethanol, and the fuel trims are off... you'll need to adjust this table. Otherwise, you'll be chasing your tail. General best practice is to get your airflow/fuel trims dialed in on gas first. Once you have that, then start adjusting the FF stuff.
Under - Fuel>General

Once you get the wideband installed, you'll then be able to dial in the PE for both Gas and Alcohol.

 

[LSCALADE]

All great info here. I suggest for anyone who wants to do the FLEX FUEL to use a OEM calibration from a tahoe or suburban which are available in the respository and copy all tables that are different when comparing them.

 

[LSCALADE]

If you want to remove some engine load from the AC systme during heavy accelaration you can set the AC Disable speed to say 3000rpm.

The AC will not function above that RPM, and will re-enable under the next setting which in my case is 2900RPM.

This may not seem like much but it will allow you to gain some lost power that is used to run the AC compressor.

 

[LSCALADE]

If you change your thermostat to a lower temperature make sure you correclty tell the ECU what you got in there so its not trying to fight a lower temp thermostat.

For example. I went from 203F OEM thermostat to a 194F and that change is set in the calibration.

 

[Marky Dissod]

If you want to remove some engine load from the AC systme during heavy accelaration you can set the AC Disable speed to say 3000rpm.

The AC will not function above that RPM, and will re-enable under the next setting which in my case is 2900RPM.

This may not seem like much but it will allow you to gain some lost power that is used to run the AC compressor.
View attachment 482706

Older 9C1 calibrations simply disabled the AC compressor clutch over, about 90%TPS, and reenabled the AC compressor clutch under about 85%,
which is to say, sooner than a civilian calibration that was otherwise similar.
It doesn't just free up power, it also protects the AC compressor from excessive RpM.

 

[TheBigCheezeBall]

I hava a bad TC on my 2011 Escalade and that is what I did, under Tow Haul mode I allow lock up in 5 and 6 but anythinb above 30% throttle it unlocks and lets it rip, and in nomraml mode its disabled. Yeah it does hurt MPG a little bit but it buys me time to get the TC changed. ON my suburban I applied the same strategy, above I think 45% throttle inpuit the TC unlocks and it feels like a half gear downshift.

I finally got around to trying this out last week. I made the changes in Tow Haul first to see how I like it. Right now it will only lock in 5th and 6th, and only under 20% throttle. It will stay latched in until 37%. I wanted some room between the lock and the release to prevent it from coming on and off too frequently. About to take a long road trip, so will let you know what I think when I get back.

 

[fozzi58]

Subscribed.

Outside of changing wheel and tire size I'm too afraid to try anything else. Since I already had a remote tune done, the truck is running properly with my mods. I will have to wait to either get an updated tune from a reputable remote tuner so do a file compare when I bring it to a shop.