How to fix Hot Air when A/C is on. Install new air mix/blend door actuator

[FreeIndeed]

Maybe I'm missing something obvious here, but I went to remove the hush cover on the passenger side and there's one screw way back in a blind hole right over the center hump. I could not get that little #%^&* out of there!! How are you guys removing that one?

 

[WildernessJeep]

Maybe I'm missing something obvious here, but I went to remove the hush cover on the passenger side and there's one screw way back in a blind hole right over the center hump. I could not get that little #%^&* out of there!! How are you guys removing that one?

I used a 1/4" drive socket wrench with a medium depth socket (8mm??) and just kept at it. I tried all sorts of tools (flexible extensions, U-joints, twist wrenches), but finally my first approach was what worked. Just a socket wrench and cussing. I guess I could have used a deep socket if that's all I had. Put a box fan on high in the drivers floor board so you have some cool wind on you while you cuss at it. You are right, it's a pain, but not impossible. I didn't replace the screw.

 

[Balgame03]

My driver side air was blowing cold and my passenger-side was blowing he just like the original poster had stated. The actuator shown in the pictures is for the driver side controls not the passenger side controls. I really don't understand how replacing the actuator for him fixed his passenger side blowing hot air? The passenger AC actuator is the one that is behind the dash. This means there is no point in replacing that actuator which is under the hush panel if the driver side air is working.

My '07 Tahoe was blowing hot air from the drivers side when the A/C was on. The A/C worked in the rest of the car. First I followed all of the steps in the OP before reading all of the posts thereafter. I got confused because of all of the differing posts and thought I removed the wrong actuator (I removed the one on the passenger side, above the trans hump under the hush panel). However, the post quoted above cleared it up for me in that I now know I removed the correct actuator (Thank god it isnt the one behind the radio). I plan on installing the new one tomorrow once I pick it up from Advance Auto Parts. I got the part for $98 (originally $138, but bought online and used coupon code from retailmenot.com for 33% off, and picked up at the local AAP store). I agree with everyone, that 3rd bolt is a b**ch. It took me about 15 min to get out. i dont plan on reinstalling either.

Just replaced and it works like a champ. Thanks so much for the picture posts on the OP!

 

[FreeIndeed]

I finally got it off. I think I used up my next two years worth of cussing. I also lost a short socket somewhere down in the console area. $@% Anyway, I got the actuator out and cleaned the grease out of it per another guys thread. Then replaces, re calibrated and.... nothing. I watched after I turned the truck back on and the gear moved all the way to one side then all the way to the other. I thought I was good, but only hot air on the drivers side. I tried turning both driver and passenger controls from cold to hot and the actuator never moved again.

I guess maybe it's bad even though it moves during recalibration. That's my next move anyway - replace it with a new one. It isn't cheap, but it beats trying to get to the one behind the radio.

** On another note, that other guys thread on fixing the actuator says that he got his from right above the gas pedal on the drivers side. He supposedly has the same truck I do, but I can't see any actuators over the gas pedal.

 

[WildernessJeep]

I finally got it off. I think I used up my next two years worth of cussing. I also lost a short socket somewhere down in the console area. $@% Anyway, I got the actuator out and cleaned the grease out of it per another guys thread. Then replaces, re calibrated and.... nothing. I watched after I turned the truck back on and the gear moved all the way to one side then all the way to the other. I thought I was good, but only hot air on the drivers side. I tried turning both driver and passenger controls from cold to hot and the actuator never moved again.

I guess maybe it's bad even though it moves during recalibration. That's my next move anyway - replace it with a new one. It isn't cheap, but it beats trying to get to the one behind the radio.

** On another note, that other guys thread on fixing the actuator says that he got his from right above the gas pedal on the drivers side. He supposedly has the same truck I do, but I can't see any actuators over the gas pedal.

Just replace the actuator. Make sure you don't move the new actuator's position. Sounds like you are on the right track.

R

 

[FreeIndeed]

Well, got the new actuator today (there's a great deal on them on ebay right now) and installed it. It re calibrated right and that seems to have fixed it. So mystery solved, the DRIVER's actuator is on the PASSENGERs side.

Well, if I learned anything, it's that this forum rocks and also that third screw ain't going back in the hush panel!

 

[scottvan]

I did the same. I left the screw out of the hush panel when putting it all back together. It's been several months now, and no rattling.

 

[lgj24]

So I have been researching these actuators for a while now and have read through many discussions on this issue. I have seen many posts with good intentions, but incorrect or misguided information as to which actuator is located where. I'll try and compile what I've gathered in this post.

There are four main actuators located in the dash:
1. Mode controller
2. Fresh Air/ Recirculation
3. Driver blend door
4. Passenger blend door

The actuators may generally be found in the following areas:

1. Mode - Driver side footwell (right side of steering column). The actuator is mounted vertically and will have a plastic positioning track plate attached to it.

2. Fresh Air/ Recirculation - Passenger side upper dash (right side behind glove box). Mounted vertically. Will require disassembly of the dash itself.

3. Driver blend door - Passenger side footwell underside of dash (left side along center dash column). Mounted horizontally.

4. Passenger blend door - Passenger side upper dash (left side behind glove box). Mounted horizontally. Will require disassembly of the dash itself.


Here's some links that were extremely helpful in locating some of these actuators:


Fresh air/recirculation

http://www.sparkys-answers.com/2010/08/changing-recirculation-fresh-air-door.html



Passenger blend door

http://www.sparkys-answers.com/2011/03/2004-chevrolet-silverado-changing.html

http://chevroletforum.com/forum/sil...ature-valve-actuator-replacement-22624/page2/



Driver blend door

http://www.sparkys-answers.com/2009/09/2004-chevrolet-tahoe-blows-hot-air.html

http://chevroletforum.com/forum/sil...temperature-valve-actuator-replacement-22624/

 

[Grimes]

Sorry to bump an old thread, but I was looking for some clarification, as I have been having an issue where all is working fine except for heat and only heat is coming out of the passenger side dash vents (foot vents are fine, I think). As mentioned in multiple posts after reading all 8 pages, there is a ton of conflicting information. The post above me was great, and I hope some of y'all can confirm it being correct (I have no clue, unfortunately).

So, to figure out WHICH actuator should be looked at depending on symptoms, could someone please explain the functional difference between the 4 actuators? Better yet, what symptoms would be seen for a malfunction for each?

On that note, how can you tell the difference between a blend door needing replacing versus a motor needing replacing?

Thanks guys!

Also: From looking at stuff on Sparky's Answers, it seems he was pulling codes that was diagnosing specifically which actuator was out. Is this true?

 

[Grimes]

Bump. Anyone able to point me to which actuator is needing replacement? Again, passenger side only draws heat, no matter what the AC is set to. No other issues.