Help with heater coolant line

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thefrey

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So I was laying on top of my engine fixing the dreaded exhaust manifold bolt issues and my elbow slipped only to get caught by a heater hose and I broke the connector. Pretty upset but it happens

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What’s the best fix for this? Is it to buy a new coolant hose or is there something else?
 

rdezs

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Pinch the two tabs on the broken off piece, push towards the firewall and then pull toward you and it should come off. Take it to your local auto parts store and match it to the one they're going to sell you. It will have a hose nipple on it for the heater hose to slide on, and use a hose clamp.

Judging from the looks of the other heater hose, I'm thinking you need a new set of heater hoses. One of them goes down to a Y fitting, where one part of the y connects to the water pump and the other part has a hose that goes up to the coolant reservoir. You'll get lots of feedback about reworking that y-pipe with an aftermarket metal one. I'm assuming you just need to get it going for now? If so, most auto parts stores have that heater hose with the y.
 

rdezs

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Note: the heater hose that does not have the y usually comes with another quick connect fitting. Just pinch those two tabs, push towards the firewall and then pull outward and it should come off. If it's original it will have a spring clamp holding it to the fitting down by the water pump.
 
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thefrey

thefrey

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Pinch the two tabs on the broken off piece, push towards the firewall and then pull toward you and it should come off. Take it to your local auto parts store and match it to the one they're going to sell you. It will have a hose nipple on it for the heater hose to slide on, and use a hose clamp.

Judging from the looks of the other heater hose, I'm thinking you need a new set of heater hoses. One of them goes down to a Y fitting, where one part of the y connects to the water pump and the other part has a hose that goes up to the coolant reservoir. You'll get lots of feedback about reworking that y-pipe with an aftermarket metal one. I'm assuming you just need to get it going for now? If so, most auto parts stores have that heater hose with the y.
Are you saying the other one needs to be replaced bc it looks brittle?
I have some time for options of replacement as I'm driving a spare car rn. Probably going to order something
 

rdezs

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Judging from the picture, it's well past its service life. Those cracks in it are definitely not a good sign. If your radiator hoses look similar, might as well do them at the same time.
 

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What year, make and model, and how many miles on it?
 
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thefrey

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What year, make and model, and how many miles on it?
2013 Yukon XL Denali just passed 200k. I picked up the truck at 197 and it was definitely neglected so I’ve been trying to restore it and get a couple more years out of it
 
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thefrey

thefrey

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Judging from the picture, it's well past its service life. Those cracks in it are definitely not a good sign. If your radiator hoses look similar, might as well do them at the same time.
Preciate it. I think it’s a spot where I touched the hose and not a crack, I’d have to go double check though. Do you recommend going all OEM or is there any good aftermarket stuff
 

rdezs

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Those plastic tee fittings at the firewall.... If they're original, there is brittle as the one you just snapped off. Nothing wrong with OEM, it'll last another 200,000. Aftermarket ones are known to fail much earlier, except for the metal ones. Those are a bit pricey.

Same thing for the quick connect at the end of the heater hoses. ACDelco, genuine GM or aftermarket metal ones.

Rockauto.com is your best source price wise, although sometimes I look up the part number there and then search it on Amazon. If you buy AC Delco on Amazon, make sure you're buying from the AC Delco store and not an aftermarket parts supplier that might have counterfeit parts.
 

rdezs

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What you do moving forward depends on your plans for the vehicle and budget. I'm assuming it still has the AFM/DOD active? Where it switches to 4 cylinder mode at light cruise? If you want to keep it for another hundred thousand plus, make plans to delete that. Many write-ups on the forum detailing it.
 

rdezs

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As a general rule, stick with OEM... particularly on fuel pump, lifters, fuel injectors, all sensors and switches. Exceptions to the rule are Melling oil pumps and Felpro make some excellent oil pan gaskets as well as front and rear main seals. (Head gaskets as well) That y-pipe in the heater hose down near the water pump, either stick with ACDelco because the plastic is different than the aftermarket, or buy an aftermarket section of hose with the y pipe and replace the y-pipe with a metal one from Dorman available on Amazon. Comes with new spring clips as well.
 

Foggy

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The heater hose
that "Y's" out down by the thermostat housing has a
good replacement for it as well. it has a metal Y instead of the factory
plastic one... Another failure point on our "oldish" vehicles.
I like gates stuff. But OE is fine and other brands too. Just use what's
convenient for you. One very borrowed time for all the rubber/plastics
at 12 years old and 200K
 
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thefrey

thefrey

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What you do moving forward depends on your plans for the vehicle and budget. I'm assuming it still has the AFM/DOD active? Where it switches to 4 cylinder mode at light cruise? If you want to keep it for another hundred thousand plus, make plans to delete that. Many write-ups on the forum detailing it.
The last owner replaced all of the lifters with GM AFM lifters at 190k. So currently I’m not sure if I’m going to delete AFM in the near future as I’m assuming the current lifters will get me at least another 50-100k. I bought it cheap and it was neglected so I’m trying to make it last at least to 250-275k
 

Doubeleive

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So I was laying on top of my engine fixing the dreaded exhaust manifold bolt issues and my elbow slipped only to get caught by a heater hose and I broke the connector. Pretty upset but it happens

View attachment 452180View attachment 452181

What’s the best fix for this? Is it to buy a new coolant hose or is there something else?
THESE ARE THE CORRECT PARTS THAT YOU NEED, 1 OF EACH. BEST TO USE OEM FOR THESE

HOSES.JPG
 

Doubeleive

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Thank you. I already ordered everything and am using OEM hose but went with Dorman connector, maybe not the best idea but it was half the price as the OEM is now $30+
I found each of the T's went up $5 on amazon, since I last bought them in 2019 the black one now $24 and the white one now $29
 

Joseph Garcia

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So I was laying on top of my engine fixing the dreaded exhaust manifold bolt issues and my elbow slipped only to get caught by a heater hose and I broke the connector. Pretty upset but it happens

View attachment 452180View attachment 452181

What’s the best fix for this? Is it to buy a new coolant hose or is there something else?
Change out ALL of your cooling hoses, before you get stranded somewhere. They deteriorate over time with the heat of the coolant and the heat of the engine bay. I believe that the manufacture date is stamped on the hoses, and if they are original, replace them now.

You don't want this to happen out on the road, like it happened to me.

Cooling Tee Hose Rupture.jpg
 

rdezs

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And by all hoses, let's not forget the two that nobody thinks about till they're on the side of the road. The two hoses they're exposed to road spray and exhaust heat constantly. The ones behind the right rear tire that go up to the rear heater core. While they're only available as a complete line set with the metal tubing to the engine bay, they're easily modified from above the spare tire with a half inch compression fitting to a half inch hose barb.... And Dorman sells the 90° 3/4-in quick disconnect to half inch hose barb. That way you can just use any heater hose and makes for a easy repair.
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I'm amazed how many people don't even know those hoses are back there till they see coolant dripping behind that tirethe Usually on the side of the road in the middle of a long road trip!
 

Foggy

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And by all hoses, let's not forget the two that nobody thinks about till they're on the side of the road. The two hoses they're exposed to road spray and exhaust heat constantly. The ones behind the right rear tire that go up to the rear heater core. While they're only available as a complete line set with the metal tubing to the engine bay, they're easily modified from above the spare tire with a half inch compression fitting to a half inch hose barb.... And Dorman sells the 90° 3/4-in quick disconnect to half inch hose barb. That way you can just use any heater hose and makes for a easy repair.
View attachment 452267

View attachment 452268

View attachment 452269

I'm amazed how many people don't even know those hoses are back there till they see coolant dripping behind that tirethe Usually on the side of the road in the middle of a long road trip!
Nice work. Thanks for the info and pics. I'll be inspecting them soon.
I've replaced everything else since I bought mine in 2019
 

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