Has anyone used a 24284077 Torque Converter (6L90?)

[91RS]

I have decided that I'm going to use the Circle D transmissions stage 2.5 6L80 rebuild kit in my 2008. I am also going to replace my complete valve body, pump, torque converter, and 1-2-3-4/3-5-R drum. I have been planning on using the CTS-V torque converter since I have a mild VVT cam but since I do not race this thing and my gas mileage is already abysmal, I'm wondering if I shouldn't. Circle D said they only recommend people use the CTS-V converter (24045127) or a 24284077 converter, which appears to be a 6L90 converter for 2020+ 2500 trucks and vans. They said it is also a dual disc clutch like the CTS-V converter but with an 1800 RPM stall, so not much more than the 1600 RPM stock stall but a little less than the 2000-2200 RPM stall of the CTS-V converter. I'm just curious if anyone here has used one and if you're happy with it?

 

[ls1frc]

I have it in mine. It doesn’t feel anything other than factory tbh. It’s a nice converter.

I’m not sure it’s 2200. More like 1800

 

[Foggy]

I spec'd my converter to be an 1800 stall when I did my circle D stage 3 trans
rebuild. I bought mine from PATC. They used a GM core and they use a converter
lock up clutch that 40% beefier than stock. I did this in prep for my supercharger..
Had the SC on for a couple of years...
Then I took off SC and did cam and stock head porting/work...
I would really now like to have a 2000 stall converter with the cam- although
I know my self done tune is still off some...
The ctsv converters were not avail when I did my stuff. But I'm happy
with my PATC converter so far

 

[91RS]

I have it in mine. It doesn’t feel anything other than factory tbh. It’s a nice converter.

I’m not sure it’s 2200. More like 1800

You have the CTS-V converter, you mean?

 

[ls1frc]

You have the CTS-V converter, you mean?

Yes, the LSA converter

It's a little higher stall than factory and drives smooth. It's a great option for going boost on these trucks.

 

[91RS]

I’m not boosted right now. I’d really love to but it looks like Magnuson has discontinued the 6.2L 07-08 kit and due to previous bad experiences piecing stuff together, I’m not sure I want to go the LSA route, and I’m not sure if I’d want to get the 09-14 Magnuson and just figure out what’s different (likely PCV connectors and maybe some wiring connectors is my guess). I currently have a small VVT cam from Comp that I really like and probably increased the power by 50ish to the wheels. It pushes a tad at idle in gear with the stock converter but not too bad, I’ve been driving it with this cam as is for maybe 2 years now.

I just figured a slightly higher stall would pair well with the cam and hopefully not do much to my fuel economy. It should be the same for highway since once in lockup it’ll be the same.

 

[ls1frc]

Whipple has a kit too

Contact cspracing.com and see if they can give you a discount on it

A good stall shouldn't affect fuel economy except around town since you'll be unlocked a lot. I don't think i'd really like a stall in a truck though tbh. Driving around my stalled C7 gets old after a while. That low end torque from the blowers is amazing.

 

[91RS]

I definitely don’t want a high stall. I did a 3200 stall in my old Trailblazer SS because everyone on the forum said you had to do a 3200-3600 stall or it won’t get out of its own way and I absolutely hated it. I ended up putting everything I had done back to stock and then ended up selling it, too.

 

[swathdiver]

The more power in front of a converter, the higher it will stall.

I fell for the high stall converter too. Put in a 9" 3000 stall converter when they were all the rage. Felt great off the line but the timeslips proved otherwise, LOST three tenths and three miles an hour in the quarter mile. Sent out my factory converter for overhaul and had them tweak it to stall 200 rpms over stock and that was a great converter that took the car into the 11s and still kept the tires planted on the street.

 

[Christoph]

So would the GM 6l90 24284077 Torque Converter have too much stall for a stock 5.3? It's a grocery getter and I'm not planning to mod. It's strictly a preventive measure replacement before the stock TC explodes. I was told to go with thicker clutches but this converter sounds stronger with it having dual discs. Not to mention I can get a NEW GM unit from Summit with for shipping for $310.

Thoughts?

​

 

[ls1frc]

No it won't have too much stall. The converter is a really nice unit. They have flywheels out there that allow you to use all 6 bolts, otherwise you will only be able to use 3 with the factory flywheel.

 

[91RS]

No it won't have too much stall. The converter is a really nice unit. They have flywheels out there that allow you to use all 6 bolts, otherwise you will only be able to use 3 with the factory flywheel.

I didn’t like the idea of only using 3 bolts but, apparently, tons of people do it and it’s fine. I went ahead and bought the CTS-V converter for my stock 13 that’s getting a transmission first so we’ll see how it feels. Might be pulling it back out and going with the other one but we’ll see. Lol. Might have the CVC billet reman for sale soon.

 

[skpyle]

I didn’t like the idea of only using 3 bolts but, apparently, tons of people do it and it’s fine. I went ahead and bought the CTS-V converter for my stock 13 that’s getting a transmission first so we’ll see how it feels. Might be pulling it back out and going with the other one but we’ll see. Lol. Might have the CVC billet reman for sale soon.

If your CVC billet reman is the BU60FHD, I'll gladly buy it...

 

[91RS]

It has about 13k miles on it. I actually didn’t think it was that much. I was going to reuse it but figured I would wish I did the CTS-V converter so I bought it at the last minute. I was also going to swap the valve body from the current transmission since it already has the zip kit in it but changed my mind on that to make the swap easier.

 

[91RS]

So far, the CTS-V converter is great. The most noticeable difference is that when you put it in gear, it barely rolls until you give it some throttle. When driving, it feels very similar to stock, but I have only done WOT once, which is probably what would be most noticeable. It does feel like it pulls better accelerating at speed than it did before but that could be due to do with the transmission rebuild rather than the converter. I'm hopeful the fuel economy doesn't go down, but I'll have to give it a few weeks to call that since I've been driving it much different than it normally gets driven to test out the new transmission. Now I'll start another round of research to figure out if I can use my old transmission as a core for my 2008 rebuild/upgrade. I know the valve body and TEHCM are different between 2008 and 2013 but if the rest is the same, I can use it since I'm replacing the valve body and TEHCM anyway. I assume that Nick Transmissions guy blocked me after I asked too many questions in his thread since he never answered if the hard parts were the same from 2008 to 2013, so I'll just figure that out on my own, too.

 

[Jonmurphy]

I have decided that I'm going to use the Circle D transmissions stage 2.5 6L80 rebuild kit in my 2008. I am also going to replace my complete valve body, pump, torque converter, and 1-2-3-4/3-5-R drum. I have been planning on using the CTS-V torque converter since I have a mild VVT cam but since I do not race this thing and my gas mileage is already abysmal, I'm wondering if I shouldn't. Circle D said they only recommend people use the CTS-V converter (24045127) or a 24284077 converter, which appears to be a 6L90 converter for 2020+ 2500 trucks and vans. They said it is also a dual disc clutch like the CTS-V converter but with a

n 1800 RPM stall, so not much more than the 1600 RPM stock stall but a little less than the 2000-2200 RPM stall of the CTS-V converter. I'm just curious if anyone here has used one and if you're happy with it? I've done a lot of work with torque converters over the years because I'm a strictly automatic transmission guy, Oh I can tell you Unequivocaly 1800 RPM is your maximum. I like the idea of the dual cluch. I'm sure as you can surmise, a dual clutch even puts in more junk Into your fluid that's why you will need a Dual Spin on oil filter addition Cooler line Be sure and put them in parallel not series As you put them in parallel (the £15 £20 of maximum pressure in your coolant line) Will give you even even finer filter Then that same filter would do on an automotive engine20-50 lbs of oil pressure you can get down to the 23 microns and that means you're transmission life is gonna be greatly increased Make sure you are temperature stays below 200° even listen to me You guys out there , can look up the How that Viscosity and the lubricating ability Drops As the temperature rises, you can prolong the transmission life by a factor of 3-4 if you Followl these directions. Jon : Murphy's law Direct descendant.

device

 

[LSCALADE]

So far, the CTS-V converter is great. The most noticeable difference is that when you put it in gear, it barely rolls until you give it some throttle. When driving, it feels very similar to stock, but I have only done WOT once, which is probably what would be most noticeable. It does feel like it pulls better accelerating at speed than it did before but that could be due to do with the transmission rebuild rather than the converter. I'm hopeful the fuel economy doesn't go down, but I'll have to give it a few weeks to call that since I've been driving it much different than it normally gets driven to test out the new transmission. Now I'll start another round of research to figure out if I can use my old transmission as a core for my 2008 rebuild/upgrade. I know the valve body and TEHCM are different between 2008 and 2013 but if the rest is the same, I can use it since I'm replacing the valve body and TEHCM anyway. I assume that Nick Transmissions guy blocked me after I asked too many questions in his thread since he never answered if the hard parts were the same from 2008 to 2013, so I'll just figure that out on my own, too.

I just ordered a CTS-V unit for my escalade, its at 210k miles, the old TC is shot, the trans is still great but with HP tuners tunning I am able to limp it along until I get to install a new unit. Did you have to do any calibrations on the TC with HP tuners?

Any help would be appreciated. I plan on tuning mine back to stock and from there using CTS-V calibration methods aka slip and apply speeds etc to tune mine to adapt to the CTS unit so it functions well.

 

[91RS]

If you’re going to replace transmission, I wouldn’t replace the converter now because it will essentially be wasted.

I’m not totally sure if you can even put CTS-V calibrations into the truck TCM, but if you can, I wouldn’t think it would be ideal. I would get a custom tune for the truck. If you have HP Tuners already, PCM of NC is very reasonably priced and they’ve done such a good job tuning the 13 that I’m considering having them retune my 08.

 

[mikez71]

PCM of NC is one of a few guys, on hptuners forum, that I was thinking about calling for a tune..
Great to see a positive review!

 

[91RS]

I used them years ago for a mail in tune on my old Trailblazer SS with a cam I bought from them. I hadn’t used them for anything in forever until I was looking for a place to get this truck tuned and not spend $500 for a tune on a stock truck plus the $100 in HPT credits. They not charged $100 to retune for the cam and if I decide to supercharge it, it’ll be $150. Can’t beat that. They’ve also done the best tune that I’ve had on a 6L80.