Harmonic balancer pulley

[ntymd8r]

Does anyone have the “procedure” for installing the pulley? I’ve seen many ways and they’re all a little different with how they do it and torque and angle values….

 

[swathdiver]

Installation Procedure​

Note:

• The crankshaft balancer installation and bolt tightening involves a four stage tightening process. The first pass ensures that the balancer is installed completely onto the crankshaft. The second, third, and fourth passes tighten the NEW bolt to the proper torque.
• The used crankshaft balancer bolt will be used ONLY during the first pass of the balancer installation procedure. Install a NEW bolt and tighten as described in the second, third and fourth passes of the balancer bolt tightening procedure.

1. Note: The balancer should be positioned onto the end of the crankshaft as straight as possible prior to tool installation.
2. Position the crankshaft balancer (138) onto the end of the crankshaft.
   
   
   Open In New TabZoom/Print
   
   
3. Install the J 41665 - crankshaft balancer and sprocket installer and the threaded rod from the J 41478 - crankshaft front oil seal installer to crankshaft balancer and install the balancer.
   
   
   Open In New TabZoom/Print
   1. Assemble the threaded rod, nut, washer and installer. Insert the smaller end of the installer into the front of the balancer.
   2. Use a wrench and hold the hex end of the threaded rod.
   3. Use a second wrench and rotate the installation tool nut clockwise until the balancer is started onto the crankshaft.
   4. Remove the tool and reverse the installation tool.
      Position the larger end of the installer against the front of the balancer.
   5. Use a wrench and hold the hex end of the threaded rod.
   6. Use a second wrench and rotate the installation tool nut clockwise until the balancer is installed onto the crankshaft.
   7. Remove the J 41665 - crankshaft balancer and sprocket installer and the threaded rod.
4. Install the USED crankshaft balancer bolt (139) . Tighten the USED bolt to 330 Nm (240 lb ft).
   
   
   Open In New TabZoom/Print
   
   
5. Remove the USED crankshaft balancer bolt.
6. Note: The nose of the crankshaft should be recessed 2.4–4.48 mm (0.094–0.176 in) into the balancer bore.
7. Measure for a correctly installed balancer. If the balancer is not installed to the proper dimension, install the J 41665 - crankshaft balancer and sprocket installer and repeat the installation procedure.
   
   
   Open In New TabZoom/Print
   
   
8. Install the NEW crankshaft balancer bolt (139).
   
   
   Open In New TabZoom/Print
   1. Tighten the bolt a first pass to 150 Nm (110 lb ft).
   2. Loosen 360 degrees.
   3. Tighten the bolt a first pass to 80 Nm (59 lb ft).
   4. Tighten the bolt a final pass to 125 degrees using J 45059 - angle meter .
9. Remove the J 42386-A - flywheel holding tool  (1) and bolts.
   
   
   Open In New TabZoom/Print
   
   
10. Install the starter motor. Refer to Starter Replacement.
11. Install the cooling fan and shroud. Refer to Engine Cooler Fan and Shroud Replacement.
12. Install the A/C drive belt. Refer to Air Conditioning Compressor Belt Replacement.
13. Perform the crankshaft position (CKP) system variation learn procedure. Refer to Crankshaft Position Variation Learn.

 

[OR VietVet]

Installation Procedure​

Note:

• The crankshaft balancer installation and bolt tightening involves a four stage tightening process. The first pass ensures that the balancer is installed completely onto the crankshaft. The second, third, and fourth passes tighten the NEW bolt to the proper torque.
• The used crankshaft balancer bolt will be used ONLY during the first pass of the balancer installation procedure. Install a NEW bolt and tighten as described in the second, third and fourth passes of the balancer bolt tightening procedure.

1. Note: The balancer should be positioned onto the end of the crankshaft as straight as possible prior to tool installation.
2. Position the crankshaft balancer (138) onto the end of the crankshaft.
   
   
   Open In New TabZoom/Print
   
   
3. Install the J 41665 - crankshaft balancer and sprocket installer and the threaded rod from the J 41478 - crankshaft front oil seal installer to crankshaft balancer and install the balancer.
   
   
   Open In New TabZoom/Print
   1. Assemble the threaded rod, nut, washer and installer. Insert the smaller end of the installer into the front of the balancer.
   2. Use a wrench and hold the hex end of the threaded rod.
   3. Use a second wrench and rotate the installation tool nut clockwise until the balancer is started onto the crankshaft.
   4. Remove the tool and reverse the installation tool.
      Position the larger end of the installer against the front of the balancer.
   5. Use a wrench and hold the hex end of the threaded rod.
   6. Use a second wrench and rotate the installation tool nut clockwise until the balancer is installed onto the crankshaft.
   7. Remove the J 41665 - crankshaft balancer and sprocket installer and the threaded rod.
4. Install the USED crankshaft balancer bolt (139) . Tighten the USED bolt to 330 Nm (240 lb ft).
   
   
   Open In New TabZoom/Print
   
   
5. Remove the USED crankshaft balancer bolt.
6. Note: The nose of the crankshaft should be recessed 2.4–4.48 mm (0.094–0.176 in) into the balancer bore.
7. Measure for a correctly installed balancer. If the balancer is not installed to the proper dimension, install the J 41665 - crankshaft balancer and sprocket installer and repeat the installation procedure.
   
   
   Open In New TabZoom/Print
   
   
8. Install the NEW crankshaft balancer bolt (139).
   
   
   Open In New TabZoom/Print
   1. Tighten the bolt a first pass to 150 Nm (110 lb ft).
   2. Loosen 360 degrees.
   3. Tighten the bolt a first pass to 80 Nm (59 lb ft).
   4. Tighten the bolt a final pass to 125 degrees using J 45059 - angle meter .
9. Remove the J 42386-A - flywheel holding tool  (1) and bolts.
   
   
   Open In New TabZoom/Print
   
   
10. Install the starter motor. Refer to Starter Replacement.
11. Install the cooling fan and shroud. Refer to Engine Cooler Fan and Shroud Replacement.
12. Install the A/C drive belt. Refer to Air Conditioning Compressor Belt Replacement.
13. Perform the crankshaft position (CKP) system variation learn procedure. Refer to Crankshaft Position Variation Learn.

Perfectamundo.....

 

[ntymd8r]

Installation Procedure​

Note:

• The crankshaft balancer installation and bolt tightening involves a four stage tightening process. The first pass ensures that the balancer is installed completely onto the crankshaft. The second, third, and fourth passes tighten the NEW bolt to the proper torque.
• The used crankshaft balancer bolt will be used ONLY during the first pass of the balancer installation procedure. Install a NEW bolt and tighten as described in the second, third and fourth passes of the balancer bolt tightening procedure.

1. Note: The balancer should be positioned onto the end of the crankshaft as straight as possible prior to tool installation.
2. Position the crankshaft balancer (138) onto the end of the crankshaft.
   
   
   Open In New TabZoom/Print
   
   
3. Install the J 41665 - crankshaft balancer and sprocket installer and the threaded rod from the J 41478 - crankshaft front oil seal installer to crankshaft balancer and install the balancer.
   
   
   Open In New TabZoom/Print
   1. Assemble the threaded rod, nut, washer and installer. Insert the smaller end of the installer into the front of the balancer.
   2. Use a wrench and hold the hex end of the threaded rod.
   3. Use a second wrench and rotate the installation tool nut clockwise until the balancer is started onto the crankshaft.
   4. Remove the tool and reverse the installation tool.
      Position the larger end of the installer against the front of the balancer.
   5. Use a wrench and hold the hex end of the threaded rod.
   6. Use a second wrench and rotate the installation tool nut clockwise until the balancer is installed onto the crankshaft.
   7. Remove the J 41665 - crankshaft balancer and sprocket installer and the threaded rod.
4. Install the USED crankshaft balancer bolt (139) . Tighten the USED bolt to 330 Nm (240 lb ft).
   
   
   Open In New TabZoom/Print
   
   
5. Remove the USED crankshaft balancer bolt.
6. Note: The nose of the crankshaft should be recessed 2.4–4.48 mm (0.094–0.176 in) into the balancer bore.
7. Measure for a correctly installed balancer. If the balancer is not installed to the proper dimension, install the J 41665 - crankshaft balancer and sprocket installer and repeat the installation procedure.
   
   
   Open In New TabZoom/Print
   
   
8. Install the NEW crankshaft balancer bolt (139).
   
   
   Open In New TabZoom/Print
   1. Tighten the bolt a first pass to 150 Nm (110 lb ft).
   2. Loosen 360 degrees.
   3. Tighten the bolt a first pass to 80 Nm (59 lb ft).
   4. Tighten the bolt a final pass to 125 degrees using J 45059 - angle meter .
9. Remove the J 42386-A - flywheel holding tool  (1) and bolts.
   
   
   Open In New TabZoom/Print
   
   
10. Install the starter motor. Refer to Starter Replacement.
11. Install the cooling fan and shroud. Refer to Engine Cooler Fan and Shroud Replacement.
12. Install the A/C drive belt. Refer to Air Conditioning Compressor Belt Replacement.
13. Perform the crankshaft position (CKP) system variation learn procedure. Refer to Crankshaft Position Variation Learn.

Thank you!! That helps a lot, much appreciated!!

 

[Fless]

Note that the Alldata links in @swathdiver's post don't work without a login.

 

[Geotrash]

I used an ARP balancer bolt because it doesn't require an angle gauge to be properly torqued and can also be reused. Gave it some good ugga duggas with my 1/2" air impact wrench and called it a day. No problems in 25K miles so far.

 

[Foggy]

I second the ARP stuff.. High quality fasteners that have an actual torque value
and can be reused. I even did their headstuds on my 6.2... I use ALL ARP fasteners
on my small block chevy hi performance stuff

 

[j91z28d1]

I am usually with you for arp, but for this one case it went oem. just seemed much easier. the arp does have a tq spec and it's very high if I remember right, higher than anything I have handy. but it is lower than the factory bolt, which is in angle, that's much eaiser. to. get right without a 300ftlb wrench. just mark it, find the longest pipe in the world and go to town. this one is on the ls3 that have a tendency to spin balancers more than my low rpm yukon.

the factory bolt is cheaper, easier to tq to the higher spec, has sealer on the threads and a friction compound under the bolt head.

i said eh and went oem. lots of high rpm flat foot power shifts later it's never moved at all. I check the marks every now and then.

 

[Geotrash]

I am usually with you for arp, but for this one case it went oem. just seemed much easier. the arp does have a tq spec and it's very high if I remember right, higher than anything I have handy. but it is lower than the factory bolt, which is in angle, that's much eaiser. to. get right without a 300ftlb wrench. just mark it, find the longest pipe in the world and go to town. this one is on the ls3 that have a tendency to spin balancers more than my low rpm yukon.

the factory bolt is cheaper, easier to tq to the higher spec, has sealer on the threads and a friction compound under the bolt head.

i said eh and went oem. lots of high rpm flat foot power shifts later it's never moved at all. I check the marks every now and then.

To each their own, I guess. Mine hasn't moved either. I marked it also. Keep in mind that I had to remove the balancer on mine three separate times in 6 months due to poor quality lifter trays letting the lifters twist and wiping 2 cams before I figured out what was going on, so I was racking up a lot of money in OEM balancer bolts before I decided to go with the ARP on the final reassembly.

 

[j91z28d1]

To each their own, I guess. Mine hasn't moved either. I marked it also. Keep in mind that I had to remove the balancer on mine three separate times in 6 months due to poor quality lifter trays letting the lifters twist and wiping 2 cams before I figured out what was going on, so I was racking up a lot of money in OEM balancer bolts before I decided to go with the ARP on the final reassembly.

that makes sense. I was only replacing the hb because it was damaged and wobbling. so I went with a power bond and since it's a. much harder car to work on. I hope to never have it apart again.. the whole steering rack has to be pulled out thru the passenger wheel wheel to get to the balancer haha. if I had to replace lifter trays 3 times I might have given up on the car before then lol.

but I get it. arp is good stuff. I just feel like I'd want a crazy expensive tq for it haha.

 

[alpha_omega]

that makes sense. I was only replacing the hb because it was damaged and wobbling. so I went with a power bond and since it's a. much harder car to work on. I hope to never have it apart again.. the whole steering rack has to be pulled out thru the passenger wheel wheel to get to the balancer haha. if I had to replace lifter trays 3 times I might have given up on the car before then lol.

but I get it. arp is good stuff. I just feel like I'd want a crazy expensive tq for it haha.

You lost me on the whole “…steering rack pulled out thru the passenger wheel well to get to the balancer” part.

 

[j91z28d1]

You lost me on the whole “…steering rack pulled out thru the passenger wheel well to get to the balancer” part.

my other car.. hb sits below the rack. not the truck. the truck looks fairly eazy. but being it doesn't have anything but a water pump on it, it'll probably never fail on me.

sorry, just saying I never want to do it again for any reason haha. so reuseabe bolt didn't seem worth it.

 

[donjetman]

my other car.. hb sits below the rack. not the truck. the truck looks fairly eazy. but being it doesn't have anything but a water pump on it, it'll probably never fail on me.

sorry, just saying I never want to do it again for any reason haha. so reuseabe bolt didn't seem worth it.

Yes, I recently purchased an 02 C5 Corvette and will have to remove the rack to change the ole balancer
Much easier on these trucks

 

[j91z28d1]

Yes, I recently purchased an 02 C5 Corvette and will have to remove the rack to change the ole balancer
Much easier on these trucks

only thing I've found eaiser on the vette is some top of the engine stuff because it's lower and eaiser to reach. anything under it.. ugh. I tell my friends is 10lbs of crap stuffed in a 5lb bag haha.

makes me wish i had a lift at home to do anything on it.

 

[donjetman]

Its been a game changer for me

 

[j91z28d1]

Its been a game changer for me
View attachment 402164

late reply, but was looking at the pic and noticed the low ceiling on the left. you didn't happen to raise the ceiling on the lift side did you?

I only ask cause man I'd love to do that in my garage. low 8ft ceiling but full attic above it I can walk around in.. gotta be 10ft high in the. attic, kinda annoying. if I could raise even a section to clear a lift I'd do it in a heart beat.

 

[OR VietVet]

late reply, but was looking at the pic and noticed the low ceiling on the left. you didn't happen to raise the ceiling on the lift side did you?

I only ask cause man I'd love to do that in my garage. low 8ft ceiling but full attic above it I can walk around in.. gotta be 10ft high in the. attic, kinda annoying. if I could raise even a section to clear a lift I'd do it in a heart beat.

Why can't you raise the ceiling in the garage?

 

[solli5pack]

late reply, but was looking at the pic and noticed the low ceiling on the left. you didn't happen to raise the ceiling on the lift side did you?

I only ask cause man I'd love to do that in my garage. low 8ft ceiling but full attic above it I can walk around in.. gotta be 10ft high in the. attic, kinda annoying. if I could raise even a section to clear a lift I'd do it in a heart beat.

You can definitely do it. Depending on the build of your house you might be able to completely remove the attics floor beams and go with a cathedral ceiling right up to the roof. Best bet to be 100% sure would be to hire an architect to check it out.

 

[j91z28d1]

You can definitely do it. Depending on the build of your house you might be able to completely remove the attics floor beams and go with a cathedral ceiling right up to the roof. Best bet to be 100% sure would be to hire an architect to check it out.

yeah guess that's what I need to find, search out an architect and bite the bullet. I'm sure none of it will be cheap but in the long run worth it.

 

[OR VietVet]

yeah guess that's what I need to find, search out an architect and bite the bullet. I'm sure none of it will be cheap but in the long run worth it.

Make sure you plan to stay at that home long enough to make the investment worth it.