Growing up doesn't have to suck

[Dantheman1540]

I have the high lift version of that cam in my 6.0 and it sounds basically stock even with long tubes and full dual 3" exhaust. Granted it has a massive flopro mufler and "highflow" cats. A buddy has that exact cam in his 2002 5.3 with stock heads and swears hes never driven a more "peppy" GMT800 with 4speed auto. I don't think you will make 400/400 to the wheels but to the crank its possible and I don't think you will lose power anywhere but thats just my opinion

 

[iamdub]

I cleaned up the oil pan, front and rear covers, and intake manifold to finish my outside work. Back inside, I went after the oil pump to port it. I practiced on the original pump to get a feel for it and learn what NOT to do.

Removed the step and smoothed the transition on the inlet:

I may see if I can round off that left side a little better, but it's really not so necessary since it's the inlet and, therefore, low pressure side. Regardless, this is a huge improvement over stock. I didn't take any "before" pics, but you can Google them if you want. There's a rather obtrusive step just ahead of where the pickup tube ends:

The bigger benefit is opening up the outlet and smoothing that transition. It may not look like much here, but compare it side-by-side to stock and you'll see how much better this is. The metal isn't anywhere nearly as rough as the pic makes it appear. I rubbed it with my bare finger trying to convince myself that it needed finer sanding, but it's actually really nice:

To round off the evening, I installed the billet oil cooler bypass for that high-performace bypassing action:

 

[iamdub]

I have the high lift version of that cam in my 6.0 and it sounds basically stock even with long tubes and full dual 3" exhaust. Granted it has a massive flopro mufler and "highflow" cats. A buddy has that exact cam in his 2002 5.3 with stock heads and swears hes never driven a more "peppy" GMT800 with 4speed auto. I don't think you will make 400/400 to the wheels but to the crank its possible and I don't think you will lose power anywhere but thats just my opinion

Cubes eat duration, so this cam would be even smaller for a 6.0 and would seem even more stock-like, as you experience. I'm all after peppiness since this thing feels like a slug off the line and doesn't wake up until around 3,000 RPM. I'm sure most of it is Torque Management in the tune, but there's more low-end to be made with compression, camming, etc. There's no way I'll put 400 to the ground with this setup. My estimate for that was at the crank, assuming I'm starting with an honest 325 crank HP as rated from the factory. Based on my E.T.s and estimated driveline losses, I'd say that it's putting out that rated power, if not more.

 

[Dantheman1540]

Oh yeah I know cubes eat duration I think I could have a little more in this 6.0 maybe a 216/220 and still not lose much if any low end which Is why I think you will love that stage 2 especially for the price! By far the compression will be the biggest difference in off idle throttle response IMHO. Motor looks great I love the quality pics!

 

[Sam Harris]

Was too busy to touch it Saturday, but had a few hours to hit it on Sunday.

Started by rolling it outside to do the dirty work. Turned the block sideways on the stand, stuck a donut magnet to the AFM towers and tapped the galleys with a 3/8"-16 tap dipped in axle grease. This size is ideal since you don't have to drill them- the galleys are already the right size for this tap and the iron taps really easily. Before I removed the magnet, I slid it in circles around the hole to catch more shavings:

View attachment 242648


Blew the tapped galleys out from the inside with my high-flow blow gun, sprayed them with brake cleaner, then another blast from the gun. When I rolled the engine over to do the other towers, I did so that they faced downward so if there was any speck of loose metal, it would fall out instead of in:
View attachment 242649


Used a razor to scrape off the gasket residues (amidoinitright?):
View attachment 242650


Used plastic buffing wheels, engine degreaser, brake cleaner and compressed air to finish cleaning the mating surfaces and block. I wiped the cylinders and mating surfaces with light oil to prevent flash rust. Sanitary lifter chamber and bores:
View attachment 242651

Lol. Razr

 

[pwtr02ss]

Excellent work...As always!

 

[iamdub]

Oh yeah I know cubes eat duration I think I could have a little more in this 6.0 maybe a 216/220 and still not lose much if any low end which Is why I think you will love that stage 2 especially for the price! By far the compression will be the biggest difference in off idle throttle response IMHO. Motor looks great I love the quality pics!

Thank you! I'm enjoying finally being able to post quality pics. lol
Up until January 5, I was taking pics with an iPhail 5S. I'm now stretching my amateur cellphotographer skills with an 11.

 

[iamdub]

Lol. Razr

 

[iamdub]

Excellent work...As always!

Thank you!

 

[iamdub]

Current small update-

Took a closer look at the oil pump last night and marked some areas I want to improve:

Had a service call at an Autozone today so I grabbed a bolt (oil plug) to replace the AFM oil pressure relief valve in the oil pan:

I used an aluminum washer instead of the plastic one that came with it:

Torqued into place with red Loctite. Looks like it was made for this purpose:

 

[iamdub]

With all the counterfeit parts being sold online, I had to compare the new lifters to the originals. Either these are an impeccable clone or they're genuine. The new ones mic'ed .001" larger diameter, so I'd say it's just that the originals are worn down .0005", given their age:

Took an old lifter apart and removed these parts:

...and reinstalled the internal plunger inverted to make a solid lifter for measuring the pushrod length. I marked it with red duct tape since it's now a tool:

Installing the Sac City billet barbell:

Screwed a 1/4"-20 bolt into it as a temporary handle, lubed it up and slid it in while turning it to ensure the O-ring went in smoothly without binding:

 

[iamdub]

This was interesting. I guess the oil galleys that feed the lifters are drilled from the front and back and meet up in the middle instead of being drilled all the way through from one end. Something was a little off when they drilled the left side galley as they don't exactly match up. This created a crescent-shaped reveal midway in the galley. This is the LH galley as viewed from the front:

...And as viewed from the rear:

The RH galley is aligned:

New rear main seal, installed with RTV:

Slid in the cam with lots of assembly lube:

 

[iamdub]

Speaking of counterfeit parts or just not getting what you think you ordered, I compared the supposed LS2 HD chain to the original. It looks and even measured out to be the exact same. Either the LMGs got what we call the "LS2 HD" chain or they just sent me a standard replacement. I hope it's at least a quality part:

Timing set installed with Loctite on the bolt threads and ARP lube under the heads. I may be crazy for reusing the original timing chain tensioner, but I like it better than the LS2 dampener since it keeps constant pressure on the chain. I figure if these things are going for 300K+ miles on the original equipment, then I should be good for a long time. I would've liked to use a new one, but I had to get this thing assembled. I feel okay with it. After shimming and torquing down the oil pump, I packed the rotors with assembly lube and installed the cover. Also lubed the timing chain before installing the front cover with it's new crank seal:

 

[iamdub]

I have this protractor intended for measuring a physical therapy patient's range of motion. It fits perfectly in the center of the crank pulley so I use it to make my torquing marks:

Used the old bolt to press the new pulley on and tightened it to 240 ft. lbs. Then I measured to make sure it was pressed on within range:

Installed the new bolt, torqued to 37 ft. lbs. and marked the bolt at my "0" mark:

Used a breaker bar to turn it the final 140°:

As I left it last night:

I'm pretty much at a standstill with it until I get the heads and gaskets. I may dive into the trans today to install that Corvette servo and longer pin. Or maybe I'll not get dirty and swap out the radio interface adapter/harness. I don't know yet. Need breakfast and coffee first.

 

[swathdiver]

This was interesting.

View attachment 243011

This is what you see on a mis-timed action on an old sixgun!

 

[iamdub]

This is what you see on a mis-timed action on an old sixgun!

lol
I didn't think about it like that. I guess the drill at the engine factory had some mis-timing action!

 

[iamdub]

Nothing exciting to update. Torque converter is still at least a couple weeks out, head gaskets are expected to ship in about a week and my heads should be done in a week or so. I can't drop the motor back in until I have the converter, so I'll do my measuring and clearance-checking on the stand and order the pushrods accordingly. Once I get the heads, I'll reuse an old head gasket and head bolts to check the pushrod length and quench height, then just subtract .015" for the thinner gasket I'll be using.

There's nothing I can do about it now, but I wanted to compare a pic of an LS2 chain to what I have. On top is what someone posted of their chain next to the LS2 chain. Below that is my stock chain and supposed LS2 chain.

I still don't know for sure what I have, but it's no smaller than my original so I'm comfortable with that.

 

[iamdub]

I'm sure Circle D overestimated my shipping date so that I'd expect the worst, but it worked cuz it made my day to find the converter was delivered today, a week earlier than expected.


The brown man left a big D at my back door:

Made the trip safe and sound:

New bolts, washers (and/or spacers?), blue Loctite and some nice SWAG:

Premium stuff like this gives me a really good impression of this company.

 

[iamdub]

Four gallons of full synthetic Dexron VI ATF and two upstream Denso oxygen sensors delivered today. On the way home, I ordered and picked up the Dorman heater hose assembly for its aluminum "Y" and two adapters to connect the stock transmission cooler lines to the external cooler that's en route.

I also ordered some other parts that would be really cool unless they don't work as planned for some unforeseen reason. I'll hold off on the details for now.

Still need to order the upper and lower rad hoses.

 

[tgui]

Amazing work.