Get a catch can before any mods.

[CHOO CHOO]

Sounds good, thanks for the Info!

 

[Mickey_7106]

Im curious what that procedure is

Also clean your intake manifold and do the GM upper engine cleaning procedure since you've obviously had a lot of oil going through it.

 

[donjetman]

Im curious what that procedure is

https://f01.justanswer.com/ebrock63...il+Consumption,+MIL+ON,+Engine+Runs+Rough.pdf

 

[Mickey_7106]

Thanks!

https://f01.justanswer.com/ebrock63/cec66346-04c1-48e0-98a6-74c35af2c84e_2014+Engine+-+Oil+Consumption,+MIL+ON,+Engine+Runs+Rough.pdf

 

[donjetman]

Thanks!

It worked for me

 

[mattjones]

I’m thinking about adding a can to my Tahoe but is it really worth the money to order one from catchcans.com? Amazon has plenty of cheap Chinese ones that seem to have good reviews. Is there anything wrong with something like this one?

Ruien Universal 400ml Oil Catch Can Tank 0046 Aluminum Polish Baffled Reservoir Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XJTV45H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_To.fDb9P8V4PP

 

[Larryjb]

I got one of the Chinese knock-offs. I don't have AFM, so it's not super critical I keep the intake clean, not that the intake directly affects AMF anyway. It does collect oil between changes, it seems well sealed as I don't have any lean codes from vacuum leaks. The mounting bracket seems to be the most obvious defect as it is flimsy. You will likely have to buy adapters for the hoses.

 

[iamdub]

I’m thinking about adding a can to my Tahoe but is it really worth the money to order one from catchcans.com? Amazon has plenty of cheap Chinese ones that seem to have good reviews. Is there anything wrong with something like this one?

Ruien Universal 400ml Oil Catch Can Tank 0046 Aluminum Polish Baffled Reservoir Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XJTV45H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_To.fDb9P8V4PP

From my experience, not really. There are a few on Amazon that are set up the same way the catchcans.com one is: Oily air goes in and passes through a filter before it goes into the collection reservoir, then exits through another port. I have a catchcans.com one because I bought it years ago in a group purchase, back when there weren't many other options. This past March, I bought an $18 catch can for my brother's '05 just as a precautionary measure. It has the bronze filter like what you'd have on a compressed air water separator. Just like I did on mine, I added a stainless scrubber pad to his to have so much more coalescing media. When I added it to mine, I went from collecting about 2.5 ounces every 5,000 miles to collecting a solid 3 ounces. My only two complaints about the $18 can is that it only has a 3 ounce capacity. For a healthy Gen3 engine, this is fine. For a Gen IV that moves a lot of oil, this may require multiple drainings between oil changes. Minor issues, really, and if I had not already had my catchcans.com one, I would have the Amazon one on my Tahoe. for my brother's truck, I bought the two-port design with a drain valve at the bottom. Due to the placement and orientation of the inlet and outlet ports, I'd recommend the three-port design so you can use the inlet on the opposite side so the hoses aren't crossing over each other. I believe it comes with a plug for the unused hole:

https://www.amazon.com/Tasan-Racing...3X2Z8780BKD&psc=1&refRID=0D3ZM010G3X2Z8780BKD


I'm sure they have this model with the drain valve offered somewhere on Amazon. If not, you can grab one for about $3 from Harbor Freight or $8 from Lowe's. I HIGHLY recommend getting a valve because you do not wanna have to unscrew the reservoir every time to drain it.

 

[mattjones]

From my experience, not really. There are a few on Amazon that are set up the same way the catchcans.com one is: Oily air goes in and passes through a filter before it goes into the collection reservoir, then exits through another port. I have a catchcans.com one because I bought it years ago in a group purchase, back when there weren't many other options. This past March, I bought an $18 catch can for my brother's '05 just as a precautionary measure. It has the bronze filter like what you'd have on a compressed air water separator. Just like I did on mine, I added a stainless scrubber pad to his to have so much more coalescing media. When I added it to mine, I went from collecting about 2.5 ounces every 5,000 miles to collecting a solid 3 ounces. My only two complaints about the $18 can is that it only has a 3 ounce capacity. For a healthy Gen3 engine, this is fine. For a Gen IV that moves a lot of oil, this may require multiple drainings between oil changes. Minor issues, really, and if I had not already had my catchcans.com one, I would have the Amazon one on my Tahoe. for my brother's truck, I bought the two-port design with a drain valve at the bottom. Due to the placement and orientation of the inlet and outlet ports, I'd recommend the three-port design so you can use the inlet on the opposite side so the hoses aren't crossing over each other. I believe it comes with a plug for the unused hole:

https://www.amazon.com/Tasan-Racing...3X2Z8780BKD&psc=1&refRID=0D3ZM010G3X2Z8780BKD


I'm sure they have this model with the drain valve offered somewhere on Amazon. If not, you can grab one for about $3 from Harbor Freight or $8 from Lowe's. I HIGHLY recommend getting a valve because you do not wanna have to unscrew the reservoir every time to drain it.

Thanks for the informative reply. I think I’m gonna order this one tonight:

Tasan Racing Universal Aluminum Baffled 2-Port Oil Catch Can/Tank/Air-Oil Separtor Black + Oil Drain **** Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KK81KMG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tYagDbR9E4V21

Basically the only other things I’d need to get would be some extra fuel line, a little steel wool, and possibly some metal clamps, right?

As far as the steel wool, do I just stick that in the bottom of the can? Is there any danger of the steel wool degrading and little pieces getting sucked into the intake?

 

[iamdub]

Thanks for the informative reply. I think I’m gonna order this one tonight:

Tasan Racing Universal Aluminum Baffled 2-Port Oil Catch Can/Tank/Air-Oil Separtor Black + Oil Drain **** Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KK81KMG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tYagDbR9E4V21

Basically the only other things I’d need to get would be some extra fuel line, a little steel wool, and possibly some metal clamps, right?

As far as the steel wool, do I just stick that in the bottom of the can? Is there any danger of the steel wool degrading and little pieces getting sucked into the intake?

It comes with hose clamps and all. I made a bracket to mount it to the side of the alternator for easy reach. It's just a piece of 1/8" thick by 1.25" wide by 7" long flat bar with a 5/8" hole on one end for the alternator bolt to pass through and two small holes on the other end to screw the catch can's bracket to. I have the bracket sloping upward at a 45 degree angle so it positions the can high enough and outward enough to have plenty of room underneath it for a cup when draining.

Pack the steel wool above that round plate with the holes in it. The scrubber pad is actually like a donut and you'll find the middle. Pull it apart enough to slip around that plate then pack it all in that area. It's a tight fit, but the tighter, the better. You'll have to work the stray fibers into the reservoir as you screw it on. If any get caught in the threads, you can just clip them off. I don't see the stainless material degrading. If your oil has anything that corrosive in it, there are lots of softer metals inside the engine that would corrode long before the stainless would.

I thought I took pics of the bracket and of the packed steel wool, but I probably deleted them after I sent them to my brother. I'll see if I can get him to send me a pic of it tomorrow.

 

[iamdub]

I just remembered- I think I picked up a couple of 5/16" hose barbs adapters from Home Depot instead of using the ones that come with the catch can. The ones that come with it are big- like 3/8". It was easier to get the smaller barbs and use a regular-sized hose that fit on the PCV and valve cover ports.

 

[donjetman]

Use a stainless steel pot scrubber from the local grocery store, not steel wool.

 

[iamdub]

Use a stainless steel pot scrubber from the local grocery store, not steel wool.

Correct. I copied a pic link but forgot to post it:

 

[08grey]

You can get a copper chore boy sponge at any store and it will work perfect.

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk

 

[iamdub]

Had my bro send me pics.


Simple flat bar bracket. I think 5.5" OC was the distance I settled on. I didn't want it to be too long and have unnecessary leverage since it was held in position by the friction of one bolt:

Stainless scrub pad in position:

Cramming it in to close it up:

Added ports and drain valve:

 

[iamdub]

I wanted a close-up pic of the washer I used on the alternator bracket, but you can get an idea here. I drilled the hole in the flat bar to fit over the threaded insert that's in the alternator bracket so the bolt would clamp as normal. I used a 1/2" lock washer (gold-colored grade 8 in the pic) behind the flat bar to fill in the gap from the surface of the alt. bracket to the back of the flat bar:

Final position. There's more space under it than what appears in this pic. A small plastic Dixie cup fits just fine:

Hose routing. Them being "crossed" isn't bad at all. It'd just be a little cleaner if the inlet and outlet ports were swapped. No clamps were needed as the hose was a super tight fit. I used a little KROIL to help them slide onto the barbs and PCV port. Had to be very careful with the PCV port since it's plastic and easily breaks. I cut the factory hose off surgical-like with a razor knife.

 

[Rocket Man]

I wanted a close-up pic of the washer I used on the alternator bracket, but you can get an idea here. I drilled the hole in the flat bar to it over the threaded insert that's in the alternator bracket so the bolt would clamp as normal. I used a 1/2" lock washer (gold-colored grade 8 in the pic) behind the flat bar to fill in the gap from the surface of the alt. bracket to the back of the flat bar:


View attachment 225852


Final position. There's more space under it than what appears in this pic. A small plastic Dixie cup fits just fine:

View attachment 225851

Hose routing. Them being "crossed" isn't bad at all. It'd just be a little cleaner if the inlet and outlet ports were swapped. No clamps were needed as the hose was a super tight fit. I used a little KROIL to help them slide onto the barbs and PCV port. Had to be very careful with the PCV port since it's plastic and easily breaks. I cut the factory hose off surgical-like with a razor knife.

View attachment 225853

Nice job Chris.

 

[Larryjb]

Thanks for the informative reply. I think I’m gonna order this one tonight:

Tasan Racing Universal Aluminum Baffled 2-Port Oil Catch Can/Tank/Air-Oil Separtor Black + Oil Drain **** Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KK81KMG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tYagDbR9E4V21

Basically the only other things I’d need to get would be some extra fuel line, a little steel wool, and possibly some metal clamps, right?

As far as the steel wool, do I just stick that in the bottom of the can? Is there any danger of the steel wool degrading and little pieces getting sucked into the intake?

Keep in mind steel wool rusts. A stainless steel scrub pad would be a better choice.

 

[iamdub]

Nice job Chris.

Thanks, Mark!

 

[BG1988]

Do i need a catch can

No oil consumption
after 2950 miles
how would i even connect one when i don't even know where it is LFA engine

Im curious what that procedure is

His engine identifies as a diesel