Fuel Pump Question

[RAMurphy]

2002 Tahoe with nearly 300,000 miles on the frame (Engine and Transmission have been rebuilt). Long time follower and as I was updating my profile I realized that my fuel pump is still the original pump. This beast still runs so strong and is still so very solid from a ride perspective, but then again I've changed/replaced most of the components throughout the years since I purchased it new back in 2002. If it was easy to change I would most likely change it just to be safe. My gut tells me that I should change it from a preventive perspective. Don't want to be left in the middle of nowhere when it decides to fail. Thoughts? Would I get an indication before it fails?

 

[JohnTN]

Hey RM,

I've got a 2002 Tahoe LS with 228,000 miles, going strong with original engine and transmission. It's in the shop right now for a second fuel pump, first one replaced at 103,000 miles. In both cases, it was lights-out when it failed with no advance warning. Seems 100,000 miles is about the normal lifespan for these GM fuel pumps, so you've done well!

I'm not aware of any warning signs. At 300k, I'd say get it before it gets you and leaves you on the roadside. Unfortunately it's not an easy change - pump out the gas, drop the tank, replace the fuel pump module, put the tank back and pump the fuel back in. In my two experiences, its been about a $1000 job each time.

All the best,
John

 

[rockola1971]

#1 killer to fuel pumps is people running the tank below 1/8 tank and getting on fumes. The fuel is used to cool the fuel pump and heat will cause the motor windings of the fuel pump to run too hot which eventually breaks down the coating of the wire windings ultimately causing an electricl short across the windings which causes excessive power to be consumed which ultimately causes the winding to burn in half (broken wire) then its game over. This is how just about any type of electrical motor fails excluding bearing failure.

The GM truck platform usually gets around 125k on a fuel pump module but again it is very dependent on how often and how low the tank is ran low, amount of crap that goes through the pump that the strainer doesnt catch and im sure excessive cold or hot season (weather) can play a role too.

Always replace with a OEM AC Delco/Delphi pump module. The aftermarkets just dont have a great track record.

Me personally at your high mileage and if you intend on keeping the vehicle for awhile then I would go ahead and get it done.

Sometimes when a fuel pump is planning on dying it will cause the vehicle to need to be cranked more than once on a cold start (a leaky fuel injector can cause this symptom too). Other times the pump will just die without any warning and often hours after the tank was jsut filled which makes the job so much more fun. When the engine starts getting stubborn to start on the first crank it could be weeks, months or even over a year before the pump dies or could be minutes until death.

 

[RAMurphy]

Thank you for the quick replies. Rarely do I let the tank get below a 1/4 tank (grew up where it gets really cold). Old habit. Yep, figured I was most likely going to need to replace it before I'm left hanging out in the middle of no where. Still starts right up and no other symptoms but that is a lot of miles on that fuel pump. I will get underneath this weekend and see if the straps are all in good shape and judge the complexity of this job. If I can swap out an engine, I'm sure I can tackle this job. Just need to find a video. Again, thanks. Bob

 

[rockola1971]

Thank you for the quick replies. Rarely do I let the tank get below a 1/4 tank (grew up where it gets really cold). Old habit. Yep, figured I was most likely going to need to replace it before I'm left hanging out in the middle of no where. Still starts right up and no other symptoms but that is a lot of miles on that fuel pump. I will get underneath this weekend and see if the straps are all in good shape and judge the complexity of this job. If I can swap out an engine, I'm sure I can tackle this job. Just need to find a video. Again, thanks. Bob

Its stupid easy to drop the tank. JUst make sure you have the fuel line connector tool set that releases the locking clips at the connector of each fuel and vent line. Thats really the only thing you need special. Some compressed air to blow off trash around the locking ring that holds the pump module in place and a replacement Oring(gasket) if one is not supplied with your fuel pump module (they usually are). Dont be surprised if your lock ring needs replaced too so you might want to get one of those ahead of time. They are cheap enough.

 

[RAMurphy]

Just ordered the parts today. Now to find the time to get this changed out.

 

[2006Tahoe2WD]

#1 killer to fuel pumps is people running the tank below 1/8 tank and getting on fumes. The fuel is used to cool the fuel pump and heat will cause the motor windings of the fuel pump to run too hot which eventually breaks down the coating of the wire windings ultimately causing an electricl short across the windings which causes excessive power to be consumed which ultimately causes the winding to burn in half (broken wire) then its game over. This is how just about any type of electrical motor fails excluding bearing failure.

The GM truck platform usually gets around 125k on a fuel pump module but again it is very dependent on how often and how low the tank is ran low, amount of crap that goes through the pump that the strainer doesnt catch and im sure excessive cold or hot season (weather) can play a role too.

Always replace with a OEM AC Delco/Delphi pump module. The aftermarkets just dont have a great track record.

Me personally at your high mileage and if you intend on keeping the vehicle for awhile then I would go ahead and get it done.

Sometimes when a fuel pump is planning on dying it will cause the vehicle to need to be cranked more than once on a cold start (a leaky fuel injector can cause this symptom too). Other times the pump will just die without any warning and often hours after the tank was jsut filled which makes the job so much more fun. When the engine starts getting stubborn to start on the first crank it could be weeks, months or even over a year before the pump dies or could be minutes until death.

I didn't know about running the tank low and the pump motor running a bit hot. Good tip and another reason to keep the tank above say 1/4 full.

 

[89Suburban]

I didn't know about running the tank low and the pump motor running a bit hot. Good tip and another reason to keep the tank above say 1/4 full.

I refuse to let it go below half.

 

[iamdub]

#1 killer to fuel pumps is people running the tank below 1/8 tank and getting on fumes. The fuel is used to cool the fuel pump and heat will cause the motor windings of the fuel pump to run too hot which eventually breaks down the coating of the wire windings ultimately causing an electricl short across the windings which causes excessive power to be consumed which ultimately causes the winding to burn in half (broken wire) then its game over. This is how just about any type of electrical motor fails excluding bearing failure.

The GM truck platform usually gets around 125k on a fuel pump module but again it is very dependent on how often and how low the tank is ran low, amount of crap that goes through the pump that the strainer doesnt catch and im sure excessive cold or hot season (weather) can play a role too.

Always replace with a OEM AC Delco/Delphi pump module. The aftermarkets just dont have a great track record.

Me personally at your high mileage and if you intend on keeping the vehicle for awhile then I would go ahead and get it done.

Sometimes when a fuel pump is planning on dying it will cause the vehicle to need to be cranked more than once on a cold start (a leaky fuel injector can cause this symptom too). Other times the pump will just die without any warning and often hours after the tank was jsut filled which makes the job so much more fun. When the engine starts getting stubborn to start on the first crank it could be weeks, months or even over a year before the pump dies or could be minutes until death.

The pump is in its own bucket that it fills when running, so it's always submerged regardless of the fuel level in the tank. Been this way for decades.

Another myth is letting it run low makes it suck up trash from the bottom of the tank. The pump pulls from the bottom of the tank at all times.


However, I would suggest, especially with an older/higher-mileage pump module, to keep it above ~1/8 tank. The level sensors commonly go bad and read the level inaccurately, making the gauge show more or less than what you actually have in the tank. If it sputters during a moderate acceleration and your gauge still shows to have enough fuel to not trigger the low fuel warning, then it's likely reading inaccurately and you actually are on fumes.

 

[RAMurphy]

All good responses. My OEM parts arrived this weekend. Once again, pretty amazed how quickly Rock Auto delivered. Going to try to get this done next weekend.

 

[Ventura139]

Thank you for the quick replies. Rarely do I let the tank get below a 1/4 tank (grew up where it gets really cold). Old habit. Yep, figured I was most likely going to need to replace it before I'm left hanging out in the middle of no where. Still starts right up and no other symptoms but that is a lot of miles on that fuel pump. I will get underneath this weekend and see if the straps are all in good shape and judge the complexity of this job. If I can swap out an engine, I'm sure I can tackle this job. Just need to find a video. Again, thanks. Bob

I wish you the best of luck. I had to change mines but it turned out to be a nitemare. Those ears that lock in the pump broke off due to rust and I ended up needing a new tank which was a headache to find. Took like a week and some 1000 bucks later. 2001 with 206k

 

[RAMurphy]

Wow. Hoping for better results. My 2002 spent all if it's life in the southern states and was garaged when parked. Hopefully little corrosion issues. I did buy the locking ring along with pump just in case.

 

[rockola1971]

The pump is in its own bucket that it fills when running, so it's always submerged regardless of the fuel level in the tank. Been this way for decades.

Another myth is letting it run low makes it suck up trash from the bottom of the tank. The pump pulls from the bottom of the tank at all times.


However, I would suggest, especially with an older/higher-mileage pump module, to keep it above ~1/8 tank. The level sensors commonly go bad and read the level inaccurately, making the gauge show more or less than what you actually have in the tank. If it sputters during a moderate acceleration and your gauge still shows to have enough fuel to not trigger the low fuel warning, then it's likely reading inaccurately and you actually are on fumes.

The sump area that you are referring to is only so tall and if you look at the fuel pump placement in the module you will see that a tank(sump) can be ran low enough to still have well less than a gallon of fuel in the tank (sump) but not totally cover up the fuel pump. The fump does not lay horizontally in the bottom of the sump. You are right in that it is unlikely to suck up much "trash" because of the sock filter but even the sock filter will only stop a certain size of particles. Granted they screen on the sock is very fine.

You could be also referring to that odd looking black cozy that wraps around the pump itself? Ive never seen one of those that actually hold anything other than the pump and I believe those are just for getting rid of vibration so its a dampener.

 

[petethepug]

Congrats on getting that much life out of an OEM pump. The OEM units are made by VDO / Continental and Bosch. Add the GM logo on those same parts raises the price another $1 - $200.

I suspect with that chopper pic on your avatar your truck has benefited from military spec maintenance schedule. The only other thing you’ll want to swap out while the tank is down is the charcoal evap canister. It’s filled with thousands of activated carbon pellets held in place by a mesh (aquarium filter) media.

When that goes, it’s like letting thousands of minions into your fuel system that clog every orifice in their path. Order and replace the carbon canister while your doing the pump or you’ll end up doing it 2x to pull and clean the tank and all the lines again.

 

[RAMurphy]

You're absolutely right, 20+ years. Firm believer of "If you take care of her, she will take care of you". Not once have I been stranded on the side of the road. That being said, never thought of the charcoal evap canister. Might need to look at that R/R.

 

[RAMurphy]

Ok so after some research, I decided it would be in my best interest to replace the canister. Just ordered it - thank you Michael.
Bob

 

[petethepug]

I’m pretty sure GM is making some nice revenue on after parts with these 07-14 full size SUV. The interwebs show that some iteration of a Yukon, Burb, Tahoe or Escalade rank #1 in reliability in this generation.

 

[2006Tahoe2WD]

I’m pretty sure GM is making some nice revenue on after parts with these 07-14 full size SUV. The interwebs show that some iteration of a Yukon, Burb, Tahoe or Escalade rank #1 in reliability in this generation.

I also hope they are making good money on the 2000-2006 SUVs so that we continue to have parts available.

 

[RAMurphy]

Concur, I plan on keeping my baby for many more years. So far, haven't had any issues finding mechanical parts.

My OEM canister arrived today. Still planning on changing the filter this weekend but It might push due to family plans. Trying to get out of that requirement.

 

[Jonesy92]

I JUST did this on my ‘ 03 Tahoe(284xxx, original eng/trans). Started after work at midnight, had it dropped, swapped and loaded back up by 2-2:30 with breaks involved.