Y'all I'm so lost on this issue! So I hit the brakes pretty hard and they stick as a pair on the front. Tap them again and they "unstick". They're super soft most of the time but after they stick and I tap them to unstick them, the pedal is much more firm! I haven't really tried anything yet cause I know so little about the ststem. Proportional valve sticking? ABS module? Any clues? Any way to troubleshoot them? Please help
Front brakes locking up!!!!!
- Thread starter mossy oak
- Start date
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Btw, it's only when I really get down on the brakes that they stick. Otherwise they are really soft
afpj
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First things first, general maintenance. Have you flushed the brake fluid? Check your pads and your disk rotors and grease the slide pins.
Danny3737
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First thing I'd check would be the master cylinder.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Replace the caliper hoses.
SevenFortyOne
TYF Newbie
I second this motion.
I Had similar problems in the past with my Dodge Dakota and doing exactly these things solved the problems. I've also had problems with dry/sticky caliper pins on multiple Toyotas and am now in the habit of checking them on all of my vehicles twice a year.
sumo
dn ʇǝƃ ʇuɐɔ & llǝɟ ı
Where are you located? Rust and corrosion build up in your caliper brackets can cause similar problem. Also frozen slide pins. I'd take your calipers apart and take a file clean where your brake pads sit. Also clean inside your slide pin bores. Apply some anti seize.
I live in Mississippi. The truck has lived here it's whole life. But I most certainly will try that. I'm fighting a few problems on it and have two little ines and a wife that's chronically ill so please y'all be patient with me. I also work nights so I may not be able to reply very timely but I'm trying and very thankful for y'all's responses
had the same problem with my rear calipers... took em off the bracket. cleaned the sliding area where the brake pad sits. Then I pulled the pins out ( where the bolts go in ) cleaned everything with brake cleaner and
after that I used ceramic spray on these bolts. So they can slide very very easily now.
Result : works like a dream now
after that I used ceramic spray on these bolts. So they can slide very very easily now.
Result : works like a dream now
Ok so...got my parasitic drain figured out. I need some help big time on this. Was tickled to have that fixed so took off for work in it! Brakes went to floor before ever grabbing. Had to pump and then I slammed on brakes and they locked up. Not losing fluid i don't think. Haven't noticed but the brakes are soft until I pump then they are right for a while and may be soft or like they should be for several more cycles. When I hopped in after it sat tho, before I cranked they went to the floorboard and the brake lights came on finally. This is driving me insane and gonna get me killed lol
iamdub
Full Access Member
Sounds like low fluid and lots of air in the system, which would mean a leak somewhere.
iamdub
Full Access Member
I'd still try new brake hoses. Soft ones can expand, making the pedal feel soft. If you apply a lot of pressure, they'll balloon out but then shrink back when you let off the pedal, acting like a one-way valve and keeping the pressure in the calipers which will make them lock up. So- light/normal pressure feels soft, hard pressure makes them lock. Hoses are a cheap and easy swap. Flush all the old fluid out at the back brakes while you're bleeding it.
Ok here's where I'm at! I've bled brakes and don't have much pedal at all. Still same condition. I have hydroboost so do y'all reckon it's a boost problem? I don't see leaks but at the firewall where brake linkage enters from cab, there's residue from fluid. It wasn't fresh it didn't seem like. I've tried to push brakes several times with truck off then crank it and the pedal stays the same. I don't know what to do now
rockola1971
Full Access Member
Have you had to add any brake fluid to the reservoir? (other than when you were bleeding the system)? The residue up at the firewall points to a bad master cylinder and so do some of your symptoms. At this point I dont believe its your hydroboost.
Yah k you rockola! I haven't had to add fluid yet but from my research I'm beginning to agree. I will change the master cylinder today but I am unclear how to properly bleed. I have searched and it gives me the bench bleed method so I can do that but wouldn't I introduce air past the master cylinder once I disconnect lines at MC? So can I just do the traditional pressure bleed at each wheel afterwards or is there something more?
