frame and rearend reinforcement

[99thomas]

already decided on motor and tranny conversion for my 98-99 tahoe. problem is depending the motor is going to be a bb around 700 hp tq not sure yet. being in an area of salt use im not a fan of boxing the frame and for that reason would bracing be enough? it will never see a drag strip but maybe some playing around. already has a bds lift and i think i prematurely bought a 9.5 14 bolt before deciding on replacing the motor. i have to rebuild it anyways but after searching there isnt very much available to strengthen it so would ladder bars be enough or should just find a 10.5 and go that route

 

[SunlitComet]

look at the bottom of your truck if 4x4. decent bracing there already and would give you ideas on what you should apply. i would say if you can increase the drivetrain and frame bracing sizing by 50% or more you should be good for your selected applications and use.

 

[retorq]

I'm planning on keeping my 10 bolt, welding the axle tubes to the housing, reinforce the spring perch, using studs inside the carrier, using a reinforced cover with studs and tying the cap support studs to tubes that extend out to the bearing area. A ladder bar isn't really going to strengthen the rear end housing itself ...

Bad pic but basically this: http://i.ebayimg.com/t/LPW-ULTIMATE-AXLE-TUBE-BRACE-KIT-REAR-END-DIFF-TRUSS-/00/s/Mjc0WDc3MA==/$(KGrHqZHJB!E+NzWfi6rBQ(NvttFTw~~60_3.JPG

The 14 bolt has a much better pinion bearing setup then the old school 10 and 12 bolts, I think it will handle 700 ft/lbs fine.

 

[99thomas]

i was thinking ladder bars as support but thinking of building my own weld on truss since none are made for the sf as far as i can see. checked out the ebay one but not exactly what im looking for.

---------- Post added at 10:40 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:38 AM ----------

anyone think it would be smart to just toss the lift blocks for new leafs with the added power?

 

[Donnie Yukonie]

i was thinking ladder bars as support but thinking of building my own weld on truss since none are made for the sf as far as i can see. checked out the ebay one but not exactly what im looking for.

---------- Post added at 10:40 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:38 AM ----------

anyone think it would be smart to just toss the lift blocks for new leafs with the added power?

NO , not with those horsepower numbers ,the bigger the block the worse the walk, On stock trucks a 5 inch block is ehhh, with 700 hp ….. two words AXLE WRAP

 

[99thomas]

im guessing with your statement about axle wrap you meant yes, toss the blocks

 

[_Dylan_]

Keep the blocks and build a really strong anti wrap bar.

I would just use the sf 14 bolt since you already have it.

 

[Donnie Yukonie]

Well I wouldn't run a 700 hp on blocks ,

But what are Anti wrap bars?

you mean track bars?

 

[ezdaar]

Welding all frame cross bars to the frame sides will reinforce that frame a ton.
Adding gussets to the inside corners will help alot as well.
Just make sure your frame is square and level before welding.
Frame should be fully supported on jack stands, not sitting on its tires.
Alot of old school guys would fab and weld in a X bar from front to back.

Just go easy on how much weight you add, be smart about your bracing.
You add in another 400 #'s of material and that 700HP will feel like 500.
Dont forget about gusseting your leaf spring perches, aswell as the fram infront of and under the engine itself.
Your stock motor mounts are a NO GO. decide on aluminum inserts or poly graphite bushings.

Like these. There are other types that bolt to the frame as well.
http://www.skspeed.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductID=CAL2380

 

[SunlitComet]

toss the blocks for the correct fitment of spring and use traction bars if needed.

 

[99thomas]

Thanks, ill be starting the rear pretty soon then and go from there.

 

[_Dylan_]

You're going to need some anti wrap bars with 700hp unless you run some leaf springs off a dumptruck.

 

[99thomas]

wouldnt some ladder bars be fine since its not offroading? i know what anti wrap are but thinking having one on each side would be better. nit sure about tubes if it be better to just weld them or make a truss. either way the ladder or anti wrap wont save the pumpkin from twist.

 

[_Dylan_]

Doesn't have to be the offroad style bar, ladder bars will work too (I prefer the off road style because they use a shackle). You won't need new springs with ladder/anti wrap bars, although it might be beneficial to have firmer springs installed.

Weld the tubes like retorq said if you think the housing might twist.

 

[99thomas]

think i will be looking at springs once i get this rear rebuilt. was never with the blocks anyways and with all the other stuff added i dont think a softer rides gonna maker