Starter Struggles Solved

[PatDTN]

When I swapped the 5.3 out for a 6.2 I didn't realize that the 6.2 needs a different starter. My 5.3 starter was struggling especially when things were hot. I bit the bullet and bought a starter for the 6.2 and made sure to get AC Delco. I've been dreading changing the starter with images of trying to drop the trans cooler lines, unbolt the motor mounts, you name it I knew it was in the way.

Today was the day. I jacked up my Tahoe and pulled the right front wheel. Tahoe properly supported on jackstands of course. If I bent back the bottom lip of the fender liner I could see clearly what my objective was. I tried reaching in and that pesky liner started chewing on my arm. Hm. I looked in the engine compartment at all the things mounted to that plastic liner then I had a revelation; those things were mounted to a metal shelf ABOVE the fender liner.

I took a yellow crayon and marked an S next to screws and a P next to push locks and started undoing things. I realized that at the front of the liner were two of those nasty christmas tree locks so I added a C to make those say CP. There were two christmas tree plugs coming down near the inner edge up top and I pushed those out. The liner came out cleanly and easily.

Looking in at the starter it was now going to be simple to disconnect the wires in easy view and reach. In the way was a metal clip supporting the battery cable. It was held down with a 13mm bolt and I pulled that out. Then I disconnected the wires. Notably the battery lead came off with a 13mm socket. Then I rolled underneath and removed the two bolts that hold the starter up. It dropped down captured fully by things under it. I knew and dreaded that. Then I rolled out and reached in above the frame where I had accessed the wires and started twisting and turning the starter to pull it out that opening.

I FOUND THE SECRET FORMULA! I turned it so the motor end was coming out first with the solenoid rotated towards the front of the truck. It came almost all the way out but was impeded by the heat shield on my stock exhaust manifold. That's just sheet metal and a little pressure from a screwdriver bent it just a tiny bit and the starter came right out.

The new starter had a slightly larger diameter motor but using the same orientation it pushed right in past the already "adjusted" heat shield. I spun it around and popped it back into position, rolled under and bolted it up being careful to torque those bolts properly to ..uh.. tight enough. I slipped the battery cable back on and spun the nut down then realized the new nut was going to take a 14mm socket. Notable.

Thanks to the crayon the rest of the reassembly went smooth as butter.

The new starter spins the engine over with gusto!

 

[Sparksalot]

I changed mine last weekend on thecopcar. Access was a pain, but I did the RandR in about 20 minutes. I worked totally from below.

 

[PatDTN]

On mine transmission cooler lines prevent getting it out from below.

 

[wsteele]

I watched this video a while back. It sounds very similar to the process you used in your replacement.

 

[PatDTN]

I watched this video a while back. It sounds very similar to the process you used in your replacement.

Yep. Several small differences. I take the positive terminal off just being careful not to short things. And putting the truck up on jackstands to get to the bolts on the starter makes it a no-brainer to get the tire out of the way.

Of course when I was done and reconnected the battery the ac didn't blow cold so I had to pull the fuses to reset.

 

[Just Fishing]

I found the same thing when doing the 6.0 swap, I was entertaining the idea of doing a starter while everything was apart for good measure.
Then i found the two different parts.
then noticed that the 6.0/6.2 part had a slightly larger motor on it!

so that sealed it, i had to replace the starter.

And i found the same thing, my transmission cooler lines were in the way.
I opted to just undo the line at the transmission side to make room.
the seal from the trans to the lines seems to be reusable, so far no leaks!

 

[Rocket Man]

Don't know if things changed with the NNBS but on the NBS you can remove the engine oil dipstick tube (1 bolt) and it comes out from above easily.

 

[PatDTN]

Don't know if things changed with the NNBS but on the NBS you can remove the engine oil dipstick tube (1 bolt) and it comes out from above easily.

I don't know one way or the other on that. I do know it's crowded there.

 

[Geotrash]

Don't know if things changed with the NNBS but on the NBS you can remove the engine oil dipstick tube (1 bolt) and it comes out from above easily.

Still the same. 1 bolt on the side of the cylinder head, comes right out.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

When I swapped the 5.3 out for a 6.2 I didn't realize that the 6.2 needs a different starter. My 5.3 starter was struggling especially when things were hot. I bit the bullet and bought a starter for the 6.2 and made sure to get AC Delco. I've been dreading changing the starter with images of trying to drop the trans cooler lines, unbolt the motor mounts, you name it I knew it was in the way.

Today was the day. I jacked up my Tahoe and pulled the right front wheel. Tahoe properly supported on jackstands of course. If I bent back the bottom lip of the fender liner I could see clearly what my objective was. I tried reaching in and that pesky liner started chewing on my arm. Hm. I looked in the engine compartment at all the things mounted to that plastic liner then I had a revelation; those things were mounted to a metal shelf ABOVE the fender liner.

I took a yellow crayon and marked an S next to screws and a P next to push locks and started undoing things. I realized that at the front of the liner were two of those nasty christmas tree locks so I added a C to make those say CP. There were two christmas tree plugs coming down near the inner edge up top and I pushed those out. The liner came out cleanly and easily.

Looking in at the starter it was now going to be simple to disconnect the wires in easy view and reach. In the way was a metal clip supporting the battery cable. It was held down with a 13mm bolt and I pulled that out. Then I disconnected the wires. Notably the battery lead came off with a 13mm socket. Then I rolled underneath and removed the two bolts that hold the starter up. It dropped down captured fully by things under it. I knew and dreaded that. Then I rolled out and reached in above the frame where I had accessed the wires and started twisting and turning the starter to pull it out that opening.

I FOUND THE SECRET FORMULA! I turned it so the motor end was coming out first with the solenoid rotated towards the front of the truck. It came almost all the way out but was impeded by the heat shield on my stock exhaust manifold. That's just sheet metal and a little pressure from a screwdriver bent it just a tiny bit and the starter came right out.

The new starter had a slightly larger diameter motor but using the same orientation it pushed right in past the already "adjusted" heat shield. I spun it around and popped it back into position, rolled under and bolted it up being careful to torque those bolts properly to ..uh.. tight enough. I slipped the battery cable back on and spun the nut down then realized the new nut was going to take a 14mm socket. Notable.

Thanks to the crayon the rest of the reassembly went smooth as butter.

The new starter spins the engine over with gusto!

Thank you for your detailed post of your starter replacement project. Our collective knowledge base is increased.