Engine repair

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BG1988

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Got the money to repair the engine dead cylinder #7 no compression..

Is the shop trying to take me for a ride on the costs 5300 total 5600(camshaft replacement if needed)

they want to take part the heads and "resurface it".. as well is this something that is really necessary?
 

j91z28d1

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Opinions differ on ls heads. I've seen some say the heads are sloppy from gm, they all need decked and a valve job straight out of the box. others say it doesn't matter at all, sloppy mechanic the build, and it will hold 700hp all day long reusing everything from 200k miles junk yard 5.3. even all the torque to yield bolts they say you can't. I've seen lab tests showing a reused tty head bolt is actually stronger than a new one, since it's already pulled to its limits. the tricky part is what tq spec do your use to take it back to that point. but again, that's a high hp build that will stress it's head gaskets with a power adder not your daily that idles down the road at 1/8 throttle.


both ways seem to be correct. if you're doing it yourself, it would he your call. since it's a shop, you're kinda stuck with how they want to do it, since most shops won't even rebuild an engine anymore, especially a hybrid one. they just buy reman and drop in. I was recently in a training class and got to talking to the instructor. he said his last job was working for an insurance company and all he did was drive around the region and disable hybrid car batteries for shops that were scared to touch them. like he literally got paid to drive around, stop at a shop, pull the orange plug on the battery. use a volt meter to prove to the tech it wasn't going to murder him and then drive away. Come back when it was done and push the plug back in. no opening batterys or anything, just the one orange plug. the lack of intelligence in automotive repair these days is depressing.


personally, when mine starts ticking from lifters, I'm going to pull the heads, replace the lifters with some gm ones, would almost rather good used ones than new gm ones, since all new parts have a high failure rate these days. if the cam lobes look good, new head gaskets, reuse everything they say you shouldn't and slame it back together and roll on. end of the day it's a very good 6.0 ls engine that putts around under 3000 rpm 99.9% of the time. putting out what, maybe 150hp at 1/4 throttle it's whole life? if it wasn't for shootty lifter design. they would last a million miles with just oil changes.

no need to build a blue print race engine out of it.

just my 2 cents
 

mikez71

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If it's not been overheated, and surface looks good. I would just slap it on there.
I figure the more work done, the more potential for a screwup.
But I'm just a backyard mechanic...

I could understand a shop wanting to do that if they have to warranty their work.
Other thing is, they need to clean the old gasket material off the head..
It might be easier/cheaper for them to throw it on the resurfacer, than taking the time to scrape it clean.
 

Joseph Garcia

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Got the money to repair the engine dead cylinder #7 no compression..

Is the shop trying to take me for a ride on the costs 5300 total 5600(camshaft replacement if needed)

they want to take part the heads and "resurface it".. as well is this something that is really necessary?
I'd say let them do their thing, as they will have to warranty their work.
 

wjburken

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I had a local shop tell me they needed to replace lifters only and they wanted to touch up the heads for $5500. $5300 to do that, plus an additional $300 for a camshaft doesn’t seem out of line at all considering I’m paying Iowa labor rates vs your California labor rates.

Fortunately for me, I decided to do the work myself and found that all I had was a broken valve spring and no piston damage so $85 later, I was back in the road. So much for that shop’s diagnosis skills.
 
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BG1988

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I had a local shop tell me they needed to replace lifters only and they wanted to touch up the heads for $5500. $5300 to do that, plus an additional $300 for a camshaft doesn’t seem out of line at all considering I’m paying Iowa labor rates vs your California labor rates.

Fortunately for me, I decided to do the work myself and found that all I had was a broken valve spring and no piston damage so $85 later, I was back in the road. So much for that shop’s diagnosis skills.
it has no compression on #7 literally Zero compression.. the dial doesn't even move at all, I can put my finger near it and fell zero air movement

No loud banging noises upon failure just started misfiring

engine starts fine..

for the first 30 seconds the engine operates normally and smoothly (as driven by the EV motor)
 
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BG1988

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Sorry it's been awhile

But i got $8500 saved up specifically for the SUV (and another $23,000 in my bank account) should i get this Rig fixed up? i know it's old but man prices for vehicle is so much money these days and the quality is very poor...
even if I financed one it would cost 6000-7000 just for tax, insurance and registration over the loan
that is 17k if you include the interest
even Toyota slipped quite a bit..

i know because of the tariffs it's going to be in the 6700 range now


Should I DOD Delete? how will i get it tuned for Smog testing? Live in California and a smog test is REQUIRED in my area...
I have been commuting with my corolla and put 43000 miles on it since my rig went out of commission.

i'm sure the camshaft will need to be replaced :confused:
 

swathdiver

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Good to hear from you Brent. Smog testing is going bye bye soon, CARB is finished.

A DOD delete on a Hybrid? Have you considered getting a regular SUV of the same vintage instead? A 2009+ Tahoe/Yukon would be more reliable and parts are a plenty for them. Maybe even find one of those elusive XFEs again?
 

Charlie207

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it has no compression on #7 literally Zero compression.. the dial doesn't even move at all, I can put my finger near it and fell zero air movement

No loud banging noises upon failure just started misfiring

engine starts fine..

for the first 30 seconds the engine operates normally and smoothly (as driven by the EV motor)
Wait...

Did you figure out the issue of the Bluetooth piston?
 
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BG1988

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Wait...

Did you figure out the issue of the Bluetooth piston?
i don't think the piston broke off it's a AFM cylinder if that happened i'm sure there would be a new hole in the engine block to go with it.. as i was driving at freeway speed when it failed... on a uphill underload
 

Tonyv__

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I think one thing to really consider here. Aren’t the hybrid transmissions almost unobtainable?

I could be wrong, but I’m fairly certain I’ve read on this forum alone of people not being able to get replacement transmissions for their hybrid. I think based off that I take this opportunity to cut your losses and maybe jump into another nnbs platform.

That’s just my two cents
 

Marky Dissod

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Got the money to repair the engine, dead cylinder #7 no compression.
Is the shop trying to take me for a ride on the costs? $5300 total? $5600 (camshaft replacement if needed)?
they want to take apart the heads and "resurface it". as well is this something that is really necessary?
Did they even once try to explain to you WHY cyl#7 has no compression? Is it either or both of the valves? Or the piston?

If it's the #7 piston, engine likely has to come out too. If the cam needs replacing, radiator & condenser may need to come out to make room to remove & install.
Either way, it should not cost $5000 to remove one head, replace EVERY lifter rocker & pushrod, and reinstall the head.

For $5000 you can get a decent GMT821, as in previous Gen Tahoe. For a bit more, you can get a decent non-hybrid GMT921 / Tahoe, possibly lacking V4 mode.
 
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BG1988

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Did they even once try to explain to you WHY cyl#7 has no compression? Is it either or both of the valves? Or the piston?

If it's the #7 piston, engine likely has to come out too. If the cam needs replacing, radiator & condenser may need to come out to make room to remove & install.
Either way, it should not cost $5000 to remove one head, replace EVERY lifter rocker & pushrod, and reinstall the head.

For $5000 you can get a decent GMT821, as in previous Gen Tahoe. For a bit more, you can get a decent non-hybrid GMT921 / Tahoe, possibly lacking V4 mode.
the LFA engine has valve reliefs both in take and exhaust are in the open position.. there was no loud bangs when the issue appear.. it was in v8 mode at the time.. using afm disabler obd at the time

the ignition coil is good tried another spark plug as well..

i'm assuming this failure occurred due to the VLOM not being correctly torqued at the factory... and sent out with loose bolts... yeah i checked a bolt it was loose not even hand tight
 

j91z28d1

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the LFA engine has valve reliefs both in take and exhaust are in the open position.. there was no loud bangs when the issue appear.. it was in v8 mode at the time.. using afm disabler obd at the time

the ignition coil is good tried another spark plug as well..

i'm assuming this failure occurred due to the VLOM not being correctly torqued at the factory... and sent out with loose bolts... yeah i checked a bolt it was loose not even hand tight


if the engine isn't in v4 mode the vlom doesn't absolutely nothing. it's just sitting there. if it. wasn't leaking oil all over the lose bolts didn't hurt anything. it's very common. the bolts were rights when new, but 20 years later when the gasket is flat they are loose. literally every ls is like this with enough time. even my non afm ls3 had bolts I took out by hand.

now if the afm is active, it could. possibly allow leaks around the oil towers down to the lifter and bleed off some of the oil pressure used to active and deactivate the afm lifters. that could possibly cause issues with them timing wise at some point.

you're basically going to have to bite the bullet and fix this thing yourself if you ever want it on the road again. or like most have them swap a crate motor into it.
 

j91z28d1

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I think one thing to really consider here. Aren’t the hybrid transmissions almost unobtainable?

I could be wrong, but I’m fairly certain I’ve read on this forum alone of people not being able to get replacement transmissions for their hybrid. I think based off that I take this opportunity to cut your losses and maybe jump into another nnbs platform.

That’s just my two cents


this is true. used is about your only option at this point. good thing is they commonly go 300k with just routine fluid changes. without a torque converter clutch to fail, and without the bad quality control of the 8 and 10 speed valve body's of today. it's pretty reliable. but it does get blamed for stuff that's really just the hybrid battery getting old and weak.

luckily you can replace the hybrid battery for less than a gm reman 6,8 or 10 speed tranny.
 

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