Driver door lock and windwos wont work sometimes...(SOLVED - so far)

[Rocket Man]

UPDATE:
Today I changed the complete door lock actuator
(rockauto for 100$).
Now everything works fine again!


So -> SOLVED and THANK YOU.

Here is the youtube-link I used:

Love 1A Auto’s videos.

 

[tengelman]

...story goes on:

today (hot outside again) it started again!
But this time differently:

when I open the door and close it ONCE - it says "Driver door open".
When I open and close it for another time - it works.

and so on and so on.
It ALWAYS only works the second time....

What the heck could that be????

 

[Rocket Man]

...story goes on:

today (hot outside again) it started again!
But this time differently:

when I open the door and close it ONCE - it says "Driver door open".
When I open and close it for another time - it works.

and so on and so on.
It ALWAYS only works the second time....

What the heck could that be????

What brand actuator did you buy? The new one might be defective especially if it’s not ACDelco. Or the wiring harness might have corrosion inside the female part. You can use something to close the latch manually with the door open and then wiggle it to see if the switch is intermittent ( don’t close the door if you have the latch closed or you’ll damage it), maybe open and close the latch a few times to see. Then maybe wiggle the connector to see if slamming the door is having an effect the contacts in the connector. Intermittent electrical problems are hard to diagnose.

 

[tengelman]

ok. I will check this weekend and let you know.
I bought ACDelco.

 

[tengelman]

Update:
I checked the plug and harness. no corrosion. everything looks fine. put some electric contact spray on. also on the other side of the harness where it is pluged left of the dash. still same problem.
Sometimes it works, sometimes not. New issue:
sometimes I close the door and it works. then after a few miles it stops working. A few miles later it works again. So I think it must be a bad contact somewhere. But maybe not inside the door as all the cables look good. also the harnes from the door to the connector left of dash looks good..
Any other ideas?

 

[tengelman]

Final update:

As this issue really pissed me off I just opened the complete harness from the latch to the plug in the dash.
There were 2 cables where the isolation was cut. not cut through - just a little cut in.
And when these touched each other all the problems appeared.
Put new wires in - everything perfekt.

AND I now have "options" I didnt even know I have

1. power windows work with open door (EVER since I have that truck they only worked when door was closed)
2. as do lock switches
3. The running boards now move when the door is closed (only moved when locked before)
4. AND: the "next" and "previous" - buttons on the steering wheel radio control now work! (they didnt before).

UNBELIVABLE what this simple cables can cause on a electric system!!!

Hard to find - and as the cables were a little to short - a hell of a job.

I hope this will be the last time I have to work on this!!!


THANK YOU and regards
Dennis

 

[Fless]

Final update:

As this issue really pissed me off I just opened the complete harness from the latch to the plug in the dash.
There were 2 cables where the isolation was cut. not cut through - just a little cut in.
And when these touched each other all the problems appeared.
Put new wires in - everything perfekt.

AND I now have "options" I didnt even know I have

1. power windows work with open door (EVER since I have that truck they only worked when door was closed)
2. as do lock switches
3. The running boards now move when the door is closed (only moved when locked before)
4. AND: the "next" and "previous" - buttons on the steering wheel radio control now work! (they didnt before).

UNBELIVABLE what this simple cables can cause on a electric system!!!

Hard to find - and as the cables were a little to short - a hell of a job.

I hope this will be the last time I have to work on this!!!


THANK YOU and regards
Dennis

Success! Are you able to share pics or descriptions of where the wire insulation was compromised?

 

[Rocket Man]

Final update:

As this issue really pissed me off I just opened the complete harness from the latch to the plug in the dash.
There were 2 cables where the isolation was cut. not cut through - just a little cut in.
And when these touched each other all the problems appeared.
Put new wires in - everything perfekt.

AND I now have "options" I didnt even know I have

1. power windows work with open door (EVER since I have that truck they only worked when door was closed)
2. as do lock switches
3. The running boards now move when the door is closed (only moved when locked before)
4. AND: the "next" and "previous" - buttons on the steering wheel radio control now work! (they didnt before).

UNBELIVABLE what this simple cables can cause on a electric system!!!

Hard to find - and as the cables were a little to short - a hell of a job.

I hope this will be the last time I have to work on this!!!


THANK YOU and regards
Dennis

Awesome. Reminds me of an open wire I had between the BCM and the airbag sensing and diagnostic module. I never did find exactly where the wire was broken or cut since that would have meant unwrapping the whole harness like you did so I tested the wires for continuity between the modules and found the open one so I just spliced in a new wire. The harness looked good, I couldn’t see any damage. Glad you found the issue.

 

[exp500]

Glad your windwows work now, Did you also use your sqewdwiver?

 

[tengelman]

I forgot to make photos.
But the spot where the insulation was broken was right behind where the harness goes into the door - on the door side.
I had to pull the wire out a bit to see it.

@exp500: screwdriver?