Dreaded Effing lifter tap...... - SOLVED

[B-train]

So, after 120k miles of no AFM, 160,370 on the clock I got a lifter noise. The truck was in the body shop for 1.5 weeks and probably got started and moved 10 ft a dozen times......go and pick it up and it's ticking. The guy says " we see that sometimes, probably just need to drive it." Man was I PISSED!

So, I put some Seafoam in it and drove it home.....no change. Going to drop the oil and see if fresh oil, filter, and an oil additive an old master mechanic mentioned to me to see if it will help pump it back up. Will update later today when finished.

This whole thing really grinds my gears - I take excellent care of my vehicles and because of ******** EPA beurocrats and shit-eating bean counters we the people get stuck eating the poo sandwich.

So, I have 4 options:
1. Change oil and pray for good outcome
2. If #1 fails, then put in $2400 of parts and do it myself....
3. Have GM dealership do it for $5500 (having friends there helped on the price by dropping it $1200). Still A LOT of $$
4. Pick up a 65k mile 6.6L from a bone yard 1 hour from here for $3500 and do as another guy here did with his suburban - forgot his handle


Yay for emissions!!!!

 

[L8T BURB]

If the cost in repairing yourself is $2400, but you can source a 6.6 L8T for just $1100 more, most definitely I would recommend the 6.6 route. Since you'd be keeping your stock transmission, no need for a custom driveshaft. It would be a VERY straight forward swap. Only added cost would be getting the ECM tuned properly. My way of thinking is this... refreshing the cam/lifters in an engine that has 160k on the clock still seems more susceptible to failure than a 65k mile 6.6. That's roughly 100k miles less engine wear on heads, crank, block, etc. Of course, if you're paying someone to swap the engines, that may change the thought process on the cost comparisons.

I'm not sure where you stand in regard to equity in your truck right now... but there is always option #5 - Put some additive in it, maybe some 10w30 or even 15w40, and set up Carvana to come take it away.

Truth be told in my case, while it was awesome to go through that whole journey of swapping in the 6.6 and 6L90, if I had to do it all over again, I would have GLADLY taken my loss on the front end and sold it as is to whichever dealer would offer the most before attempting any repairs. All told, I was well over 13k with my swap on a 185k mile rig with a book value of under 10k. Sheesh. Live and learn I suppose.

It sounds like you are in far better shape to spend far less than I did, so I'd imagine this isn't likely isn't an apples to apples comparison.

 

[Marky Dissod]

I'd try Valvoline Restore & Protect 5W40 (winter's almost here).
You know when to change it out, based on how hard your vehicle works.

 

[89Suburban]

Give it a hail mary rev up to 5-6K might clear it up worked for me once.

 

[Blackcar]

So, after 120k miles of no AFM, 160,370 on the clock I got a lifter noise. The truck was in the body shop for 1.5 weeks and probably got started and moved 10 ft a dozen times......go and pick it up and it's ticking. The guy says " we see that sometimes, probably just need to drive it." Man was I PISSED!

So, I put some Seafoam in it and drove it home.....no change. Going to drop the oil and see if fresh oil, filter, and an oil additive an old master mechanic mentioned to me to see if it will help pump it back up. Will update later today when finished.

This whole thing really grinds my gears - I take excellent care of my vehicles and because of ******** EPA beurocrats and shit-eating bean counters we the people get stuck eating the poo sandwich.

So, I have 4 options:
1. Change oil and pray for good outcome
2. If #1 fails, then put in $2400 of parts and do it myself....
3. Have GM dealership do it for $5500 (having friends there helped on the price by dropping it $1200). Still A LOT of $$
4. Pick up a 65k mile 6.6L from a bone yard 1 hour from here for $3500 and do as another guy here did with his suburban - forgot his handle


Yay for emissions!!!!

If you can decide which side tick is I would pull valve cover and see if you can see rocker arm that isn't moving correctly and some owners have found bent push rod which is easily replaced.
If bent push rod I would look at replacing valve solenoid manifold.
I wouldn't drive or run much to keep from causing more damage until a look under valve cover. Sounds like you have done good job with maintenance so rotating assembly should be fine.

Tech Tips: Replacing LS Active Fuel Management Lifters With Melling

Replacing a failed AFMt lifter is more involved than just swapping out a bad lifter for a good one - the root cause of the failure needs to be addressed.

www.enginelabs.com

 

[B-train]

If the cost in repairing yourself is $2400, but you can source a 6.6 L8T for just $1100 more, most definitely I would recommend the 6.6 route. Since you'd be keeping your stock transmission, no need for a custom driveshaft. It would be a VERY straight forward swap. Only added cost would be getting the ECM tuned properly. My way of thinking is this... refreshing the cam/lifters in an engine that has 160k on the clock still seems more susceptible to failure than a 65k mile 6.6. That's roughly 100k miles less engine wear on heads, crank, block, etc. Of course, if you're paying someone to swap the engines, that may change the thought process on the cost comparisons.

I'm not sure where you stand in regard to equity in your truck right now... but there is always option #5 - Put some additive in it, maybe some 10w30 or even 15w40, and set up Carvana to come take it away.

Truth be told in my case, while it was awesome to go through that whole journey of swapping in the 6.6 and 6L90, if I had to do it all over again, I would have GLADLY taken my loss on the front end and sold it as is to whichever dealer would offer the most before attempting any repairs. All told, I was well over 13k with my swap on a 185k mile rig with a book value of under 10k. Sheesh. Live and learn I suppose.

It sounds like you are in far better shape to spend far less than I did, so I'd imagine this isn't likely isn't an apples to apples comparison.

Agreed on all of the above. Equity is all mine, so nothing hanging around my neck in that regard. I'm hoping option 1 works ans I'll trade it off. If not, then a 6.6L is probably the best option and I'll run it until the wheels fall off.......

 

[B-train]

If you can decide which side tick is I would pull valve cover and see if you can see rocker arm that isn't moving correctly and some owners have found bent push rod which is easily replaced.
If bent push rod I would look at replacing valve solenoid manifold.
I wouldn't drive or run much to keep from causing more damage until a look under valve cover. Sounds like you have done good job with maintenance so rotating assembly should be fine.

Tech Tips: Replacing LS Active Fuel Management Lifters With Melling

Replacing a failed AFMt lifter is more involved than just swapping out a bad lifter for a good one - the root cause of the failure needs to be addressed.

www.enginelabs.com

Good advice. I'll dive into it this weekend and see what transpires.

 

[B-train]

If the cost in repairing yourself is $2400, but you can source a 6.6 L8T for just $1100 more, most definitely I would recommend the 6.6 route. Since you'd be keeping your stock transmission, no need for a custom driveshaft. It would be a VERY straight forward swap. Only added cost would be getting the ECM tuned properly. My way of thinking is this... refreshing the cam/lifters in an engine that has 160k on the clock still seems more susceptible to failure than a 65k mile 6.6. That's roughly 100k miles less engine wear on heads, crank, block, etc. Of course, if you're paying someone to swap the engines, that may change the thought process on the cost comparisons.

I'm not sure where you stand in regard to equity in your truck right now... but there is always option #5 - Put some additive in it, maybe some 10w30 or even 15w40, and set up Carvana to come take it away.

Truth be told in my case, while it was awesome to go through that whole journey of swapping in the 6.6 and 6L90, if I had to do it all over again, I would have GLADLY taken my loss on the front end and sold it as is to whichever dealer would offer the most before attempting any repairs. All told, I was well over 13k with my swap on a 185k mile rig with a book value of under 10k. Sheesh. Live and learn I suppose.

It sounds like you are in far better shape to spend far less than I did, so I'd imagine this isn't likely isn't an apples to apples comparison.

I forgot to mention I have HP Tuners. I used it to turn off the crummy AFM. My thought is to get my hands on a 2021 truck and copy the ECM files. Then, in theory I should be able to paste all that stuff into my tables and let er rip.......fingers crossed

 

[Jake707]

Dam. Im hoping option 1 works for you, a couple high RPM pulls once warmed up might help as well.
Our new to us '17 Denali has either an intermittent exhaust leak or an actual lifter tick, hard to tell since they can sound similar and its not consistent. Im hoping its due for an oil change and maybe trying a 05w-30 oil might help over the 0w-20 spec

 

[89Suburban]

Yup I was driving on the highway and when I got off an exit it ramp it was tapping VERY loud like it was going to jump out of the block. I pulled over shut it off checked the oil everything looked fine. Started it back up still was hammering away so I said F it and revved the hell out of it and it stopped never did it again that was a few years ago I got 360K on it with the Range AFM device.

 

[Trey Hardy]

So, after 120k miles of no AFM, 160,370 on the clock I got a lifter noise. The truck was in the body shop for 1.5 weeks and probably got started and moved 10 ft a dozen times......go and pick it up and it's ticking. The guy says " we see that sometimes, probably just need to drive it." Man was I PISSED!

So, I put some Seafoam in it and drove it home.....no change. Going to drop the oil and see if fresh oil, filter, and an oil additive an old master mechanic mentioned to me to see if it will help pump it back up. Will update later today when finished.

This whole thing really grinds my gears - I take excellent care of my vehicles and because of ******** EPA beurocrats and shit-eating bean counters we the people get stuck eating the poo sandwich.

So, I have 4 options:
1. Change oil and pray for good outcome
2. If #1 fails, then put in $2400 of parts and do it myself....
3. Have GM dealership do it for $5500 (having friends there helped on the price by dropping it $1200). Still A LOT of $$
4. Pick up a 65k mile 6.6L from a bone yard 1 hour from here for $3500 and do as another guy here did with his suburban - forgot his handle


Yay for emissions!!!!

I’ve had two lifters drop on me and I got them unstuck both times by putting a quart of marvel mystery oil in her and redlining it
By redline I mean pull out in 1st gear and peg the rpm then do the same in second for atleast a couple miles both times cleared it right up and she’s got over 400,000 on her now!

 

[Trey Hardy]

Give it a hail mary rev up to 5-6K might clear it up worked for me once.

My buddy took a lifter tapping 4.8 and literally put a 5 gallon can of gas in it and put a brick on the gas pedal and walked away from it when she ran out of gas we put some more in her and she was purring like a kitten! He still pulled it out to swap in his built lq9 but my buddy threw that old 200k mile 4.8 in his Camaro and drove it another 4 years before he ever swapped it for a 6.2
I’d recommend the marvel oil in her before you do this though lmao
I actually started putting a quart of it in during each oil change and just stepped the oil up to 10w40 and it’s seemed to work for me thus far

 

[89Suburban]

My buddy took a lifter tapping 4.8 and literally put a 5 gallon can of gas in it and put a brick on the gas pedal and walked away from it when she ran out of gas we put some more in her and she was purring like a kitten! He still pulled it out to swap in his built lq9 but my buddy threw that old 200k mile 4.8 in his Camaro and drove it another 4 years before he ever swapped it for a 6.2
I’d recommend the marvel oil in her before you do this though lmao
I actually started putting a quart of it in during each oil change and just stepped the oil up to 10w40 and it’s seemed to work for me thus far

I been running Marine Stabil in my jawn the green sh*t

 

[j91z28d1]

you know the gas in the oil trick, while sounding dangerous. gas is what we used to wash parts with. it breaks down any varansh quickly. makes me wonder if that's not the trick to clean the inside of lifters that get stuck.

 

[j91z28d1]

as much as this happens, I'm surprised someone hasn't marketed a additives just for lubing the top end of these things.

on a totally different side note, I know the epa sucks, but they get zero blame for this nonsense. this is all on gm. epa only cares about emissions, which is a reason why we have dexos oil ratings, all these new vehicles without actual pvc valves drink some much oil, the engine oil has to not foul out the cats in 100k miles. 80s oil specs would kill today's cats in short time.

gm is solely responsible for taking one of the most solid engines ever built and turning it into a ticking time bomb. epa bearly even has fuel mileage standards for heavy trucks and they allow you to off set it by advertising the whole fleet. so build a basic car that can compete with a Toyota and no one cares if your truck gets 15mph or 12.

notice how a gmt800 gets better real. world fuel mileage than a new direct injection lt? epa would not allow this is they cared at all.

 

[B-train]

as much as this happens, I'm surprised someone hasn't marketed a additives just for lubing the top end of these things.

on a totally different side note, I know the epa sucks, but they get zero blame for this nonsense. this is all on gm. epa only cares about emissions, which is a reason why we have dexos oil ratings, all these new vehicles without actual pvc valves drink some much oil, the engine oil has to not foul out the cats in 100k miles. 80s oil specs would kill today's cats in short time.

gm is solely responsible for taking one of the most solid engines ever built and turning it into a ticking time bomb. epa bearly even has fuel mileage standards for heavy trucks and they allow you to off set it by advertising the whole fleet. so build a basic car that can compete with a Toyota and no one cares if your truck gets 15mph or 12.

notice how a gmt800 gets better real. world fuel mileage than a new direct injection lt? epa would not allow this is they cared at all.

The EPA is what drives this nonsense. Auto makers have to keep getting creative to increase power output because the engines have to run less efficiently to make "clean" air. It's a completely screwed up system. If engines were designed and tuned for "efficiency" you'd see many more diesel options as well as good gas motors like the original LS, 3800 V6, etc. It's all a game driven by mechanically unintelligent people, guised as 'clean,' that causes engines to use more fuel to do the same work. I saw it in all the engine development work I did over the years with diesel, DI 2 stroke engines, etc. I'm sure there is a balance somewhere in all of it, but it probably costs too much which eats into the bean counters conscience and shareholders pocketbooks.

 

[Dave in Gig Harbor]

I had the same issue with lifter noise. Well serviced 2018 Silverado 1500/6.2 with 80k miles. Turned out that it was a bent pushrod. I had just finished chemotherapy and could not do the repair myself. No oil change or chemical was going to fix this.

so I paid $5,000 to have half the lifters/pushrod fixed.

 

[fozzi58]

@B-train "...I'm sure there is a balance somewhere in all of it, but it probably costs too much which eats into the bean counters conscience and shareholders pocketbooks....."

There's the answer to a lot of problems.

 

[Reddenali]

So, after 120k miles of no AFM, 160,370 on the clock I got a lifter noise. The truck was in the body shop for 1.5 weeks and probably got started and moved 10 ft a dozen times......go and pick it up and it's ticking. The guy says " we see that sometimes, probably just need to drive it." Man was I PISSED!

So, I put some Seafoam in it and drove it home.....no change. Going to drop the oil and see if fresh oil, filter, and an oil additive an old master mechanic mentioned to me to see if it will help pump it back up. Will update later today when finished.

This whole thing really grinds my gears - I take excellent care of my vehicles and because of ******** EPA beurocrats and shit-eating bean counters we the people get stuck eating the poo sandwich.

So, I have 4 options:
1. Change oil and pray for good outcome
2. If #1 fails, then put in $2400 of parts and do it myself....
3. Have GM dealership do it for $5500 (having friends there helped on the price by dropping it $1200). Still A LOT of $$
4. Pick up a 65k mile 6.6L from a bone yard 1 hour from here for $3500 and do as another guy here did with his suburban - forgot his handle


Yay for emissions!!!!

If it is still ticking put a BTR or Texas Speed Vvt/ dod delete kit in , that’s what I’m doing at time with a used motor after mine blew up 2011 6.2

 

[B-train]

I had the same issue with lifter noise. Well serviced 2018 Silverado 1500/6.2 with 80k miles. Turned out that it was a bent pushrod. I had just finished chemotherapy and could not do the repair myself. No oil change or chemical was going to fix this.
View attachment 439898 so I paid $5,000 to have half the lifters/pushrod fixed.

I am in that boat now.......had it towed to a dealership due to an ongoing claim. It happened after the accident, while at the bodyshop, so it's an insurance thing now. I was at the dealership this morning for a loaner and #4 had a bent pushrod. Not sure HOW that even happens......never had a motor do that in my life.