DIY Alignment 07 Tahoe 4WD

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89Suburban

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Also look at the difference from the gap in the top of the washer slots from front to the rear (brake line is rear). The lower the washer is on the pin, it pushes the arm out. So the front is pushed out father than the rear. That is the positive castor angle. :)





View attachment 378419View attachment 378420


I am backwards here, the lower the washer is on the pin, it pushers the arm IN.
 
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I spent ALOT of time on this this weekend. I am VERY close. I got the camber close as I can, caster close as I can. I used a dial caliper to match the pin settings for the castor in reference to the factory plastic locators. Then did the toe adjustment. Took a test drive Sat night. Wheel is a off center a little but it drove pretty good.

I fiddled with that offset steering wheel position today with some minor toe adjustments like @iamdub explained, equal adjustments on both sides and got the wheel straight. Seems damn close. Tonight I am going to go to the warehouse flat floor and do another camber check all around and see where I am at.

I did find myself running out of positive camber adjustment on the r/f FRONT keys. So I had to push the rear of the arm out slightly and lose a fraction of castor in the process. I am also having issues with the r/f rear arm camber setting. As I torque the bolt down, the degree reading wanders in the process. None of the other 3 bolts are doing that so I am scratching my head on that one.

Very close!
 
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Would Those factory inserts help hold the plate/washer and keep it from moving while tightening?

Maybe use a C-clamp or vise grip on it?
 
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Would Those factory inserts help hold the plate/washer and keep it from moving while tightening?

Maybe use a C-clamp or vise grip on it?

They won't fit unless I put it back to the original ride height. Which is still an option but I am trying to avoid.
 
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If you still have the original 17” Goodyears (QAS):
Caster: 3.2* Left and 3.6* Right
Camber: -0.1*
Total Toe: 0.1*

Your airbag recall is still open as well.


So damn close. Read about an old school trick of zeroing out the scale wheels straight then turning the wheels 15-20* to get rough caster measurement.



Pass/F Camber:

IMG_5020.JPG



Pass/F Castor:


IMG_5021.JPG




Driv/F Camber:


IMG_5022.JPG





Driv/F Castor:


IMG_5023.JPG
 
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Thank you @gooffeyguy . For future reference. 2012 Yukon Denali XL 1500



20221123_134528.jpg
 

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Nice write up, Biff :) I've stickied this for future use as it's got a lot of great info for the at home DIYer :)
 

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Your doing good. It's a long road to get where you are at when figuring it all out on your on. I am still on this road just a little way ahead of you. I graduated from your 16$ tool to 0ne that measures caster and king pin as well. By the way you can actually measure your caster with the gauge that you have. I made a holder for that very tool out of a piece of angle iron cut to the length of my rim lip to lip. cut 2 more pieces of the same angle iron about 7 " long and slid them behind the rim with a long bolt through the longer piece at the top and bottom so when you tighten the bolt it holds the longer piece snug to your rim and is rigid to give you a true reading. Center your gauge as if to do a camber reading and 0 the gauge. turn the wheel out and read the gauge. turn the wheel in and read the gauge. Subtract. The # that is left is what your caster is. You will find that when you get your caster set even within a degree your camber will follow a lot easier. The string set up is still to date the best way I have found for setting toe. I hope this makes sense and helps. Your on the right track. This alignment course is not an easy or fast class. The good news is that after you get toe, camber and caster figured out it's like an infill commercial "BUT WAIT!!!! THERES MORE!" Just worry about those 3 and you'll be fine. You're close.
 

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