DIY Alignment 07 Tahoe 4WD

[89Suburban]

BTW if you do any suspension work on these be carful not to knock out one of the pins. That happened to me so I have one missing. They are just steel dowels pressed into a hole in the frame ear. I am using a center punch in the empty hole for getting these adjustments done. Once you torque everything down it will hold.

 

[91RS]

"I'm watching you, Wazowski. Always watching. Always!"

A little big brother $h!T right there!

Lol. I had to look up the RPO code for the tires to pick which alignment specs and saw the open recall.

 

[Geotrash]

Lol. I had to look up the RPO code for the tires to pick which alignment specs and saw the open recall.

Busted, paw paw!

 

[gooffeyguy]

The 2 mounting bolts are straight, the bolt holes in the frame are slotted. There are small pins that stick out of the frame that the slot of the 4 washer keys slide on. Depending which way you turn the bolt head pulls the a-arm in or out. You adjust front to back for the castor and in or out for camber.

I see now that the bolts are flat on the sides and the cams move with the bolt.

So when I replace my upper control arms can I just mark where the pins are on the cams and put them back as close as I can when tightening down the new ones and it'd be close until I can get in for an alignment?

 

[iamdub]

I see now that the bolts are flat on the sides and the cams move with the bolt.

So when I replace my upper control arms can I just mark where the pins are on the cams and put them back as close as I can when tightening down the new ones and it'd be close until I can get in for an alignment?

View attachment 378400

View attachment 378401

That's pretty much all there is to it.

 

[89Suburban]

I see now that the bolts are flat on the sides and the cams move with the bolt.

So when I replace my upper control arms can I just mark where the pins are on the cams and put them back as close as I can when tightening down the new ones and it'd be close until I can get in for an alignment?

View attachment 378400

View attachment 378401

You can use a magic marker or scribe on the washers to relocate them in reference to the pins too. I like the factory washers as they have degree marks and if you are lucky factory alignment plastic locators. You are on the right track.

 

[gooffeyguy]

You can use a magic marker or scribe on the washers to relocate them in reference to the pins too. I like the factory washers as they have degree marks and if you are lucky factory alignment plastic locators. You are on the right track.

Mine doesn't have any of the factory plastic locators. Should I try to find/buy some or just not worry about them?

 

[89Suburban]

Mine doesn't have any of the factory plastic locators. Should I try to find/buy some or just not worry about them?

I wouldn't worry about them since yours are not there. Just take pics to reference everything before and after assembly. Try to get things close as possible. I notice you have a bit of build up around the washers to leave a nice relocating imprint of where to put everything back too.

 

[89Suburban]

I see now that the bolts are flat on the sides and the cams move with the bolt.

So when I replace my upper control arms can I just mark where the pins are on the cams and put them back as close as I can when tightening down the new ones and it'd be close until I can get in for an alignment?

View attachment 378400

View attachment 378401

Look, you already have plenty of existing reference clues to guide you.

 

[89Suburban]

Also look at the difference from the gap in the top of the washer slots from front to the rear (brake line is rear). The lower the washer is on the pin, it pushes the arm out. So the front is pushed out father than the rear. That is the positive castor angle.

 

[gooffeyguy]

That buildup is that black rubbery coating that's on the frame parts. Those cam washers should leave an imprint.

 

[89Suburban]

Also look at the difference from the gap in the top of the washer slots from front to the rear (brake line is rear). The lower the washer is on the pin, it pushes the arm out. So the front is pushed out father than the rear. That is the positive castor angle.





View attachment 378419View attachment 378420

I am backwards here, the lower the washer is on the pin, it pushers the arm IN.

 

[89Suburban]

I spent ALOT of time on this this weekend. I am VERY close. I got the camber close as I can, caster close as I can. I used a dial caliper to match the pin settings for the castor in reference to the factory plastic locators. Then did the toe adjustment. Took a test drive Sat night. Wheel is a off center a little but it drove pretty good.

I fiddled with that offset steering wheel position today with some minor toe adjustments like @iamdub explained, equal adjustments on both sides and got the wheel straight. Seems damn close. Tonight I am going to go to the warehouse flat floor and do another camber check all around and see where I am at.

I did find myself running out of positive camber adjustment on the r/f FRONT keys. So I had to push the rear of the arm out slightly and lose a fraction of castor in the process. I am also having issues with the r/f rear arm camber setting. As I torque the bolt down, the degree reading wanders in the process. None of the other 3 bolts are doing that so I am scratching my head on that one.

Very close!

 

[gooffeyguy]

Would Those factory inserts help hold the plate/washer and keep it from moving while tightening?

Maybe use a C-clamp or vise grip on it?

 

[89Suburban]

Would Those factory inserts help hold the plate/washer and keep it from moving while tightening?

Maybe use a C-clamp or vise grip on it?

They won't fit unless I put it back to the original ride height. Which is still an option but I am trying to avoid.

 

[89Suburban]

If you still have the original 17” Goodyears (QAS):
Caster: 3.2* Left and 3.6* Right
Camber: -0.1*
Total Toe: 0.1*

Your airbag recall is still open as well.

So damn close. Read about an old school trick of zeroing out the scale wheels straight then turning the wheels 15-20* to get rough caster measurement.



Pass/F Camber:

Pass/F Castor:

Driv/F Camber:

Driv/F Castor:

 

[89Suburban]

Thank you @gooffeyguy . For future reference. 2012 Yukon Denali XL 1500

What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

Just noticed that the clear coat on the black "GMC" lettering on the front grill is peeling.... It's not an OEM emblem. Its an aftermarket one I bought off ebay and installed back in July of 2020. You'd think it'd last more than 2 years though, especially for $50

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[07Burb]

Nice write up, Biff I've stickied this for future use as it's got a lot of great info for the at home DIYer

 

[89Suburban]

 

[Maximus05Escalade]

Your doing good. It's a long road to get where you are at when figuring it all out on your on. I am still on this road just a little way ahead of you. I graduated from your 16$ tool to 0ne that measures caster and king pin as well. By the way you can actually measure your caster with the gauge that you have. I made a holder for that very tool out of a piece of angle iron cut to the length of my rim lip to lip. cut 2 more pieces of the same angle iron about 7 " long and slid them behind the rim with a long bolt through the longer piece at the top and bottom so when you tighten the bolt it holds the longer piece snug to your rim and is rigid to give you a true reading. Center your gauge as if to do a camber reading and 0 the gauge. turn the wheel out and read the gauge. turn the wheel in and read the gauge. Subtract. The # that is left is what your caster is. You will find that when you get your caster set even within a degree your camber will follow a lot easier. The string set up is still to date the best way I have found for setting toe. I hope this makes sense and helps. Your on the right track. This alignment course is not an easy or fast class. The good news is that after you get toe, camber and caster figured out it's like an infill commercial "BUT WAIT!!!! THERES MORE!" Just worry about those 3 and you'll be fine. You're close.