Moving all my R&D into this thread for my reference so its not skewed all over the GMT900 thread and anyone else that wants to follow along including the peanut gallery.
I have been having issues getting the local shops to do an alignment on my truck because it is "modified" from stock which is fk'n bullsh*t. Compared to all the other highly modified hunks of shit I see running around here. I do have one place left I can bust his balls and he will do it or let me rent the rack to do it myself with his mentoring. I am keeping that in reserve and decided to learn what I can on my own just becuz.
And it's a new challenge and education which I enjoy and have something to feed my OCD and mental mechanical anguish. Or make it worse.
Anyway so I did basically 2" drop front and rear. Front was the flipped struts to under the arm mod with the grade 9 hardware. This absolutely throws everything out of whack. So I have just been eyeballing things and adjusting, road testing, trial and error process if you will.
So I just eyeballed the camber compared to the rear wheels and got close to where I thought it should be. Def a ton of pos camber had to be adjusted to get the tire close to square to the road. I still have a few degrees of adjustment left with the factory bolts if I need it. Hoping I will not be needing to go with the offset bolts.
I came across this very nifty little tool on Amazon, so far it is very fun tool to play with. And for 16 bucks, why not? The big thing about this tool is to get measurements off the rotor before replacing suspension parts so you can match the adjustment of the new ones close enough to get by until you can get an alignment scheduled. This tool feels good in your hands for a 16 dollar tool. (Mounted to the 12 oz beer crusher for size reference. Another $15 dollar tool that I love.)
I have been having issues getting the local shops to do an alignment on my truck because it is "modified" from stock which is fk'n bullsh*t. Compared to all the other highly modified hunks of shit I see running around here. I do have one place left I can bust his balls and he will do it or let me rent the rack to do it myself with his mentoring. I am keeping that in reserve and decided to learn what I can on my own just becuz.
And it's a new challenge and education which I enjoy and have something to feed my OCD and mental mechanical anguish. Or make it worse.
Anyway so I did basically 2" drop front and rear. Front was the flipped struts to under the arm mod with the grade 9 hardware. This absolutely throws everything out of whack. So I have just been eyeballing things and adjusting, road testing, trial and error process if you will.
So I just eyeballed the camber compared to the rear wheels and got close to where I thought it should be. Def a ton of pos camber had to be adjusted to get the tire close to square to the road. I still have a few degrees of adjustment left with the factory bolts if I need it. Hoping I will not be needing to go with the offset bolts.
I came across this very nifty little tool on Amazon, so far it is very fun tool to play with. And for 16 bucks, why not? The big thing about this tool is to get measurements off the rotor before replacing suspension parts so you can match the adjustment of the new ones close enough to get by until you can get an alignment scheduled. This tool feels good in your hands for a 16 dollar tool. (Mounted to the 12 oz beer crusher for size reference. Another $15 dollar tool that I love.)
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