Debating replacing torque converter as preventative maintenance

[dkad260]

This is for my 2012 XL Denali, for the sake of discussion, I currently I have no issues with my transmission.

Going back....I was aware of the issues with the 6L80E in general before I bought this 2 years ago, so my plan was very likely to replace the converter in whatever I bought. Dealer records show a trans flush at 60K, I bought it with 90K and now it has 120K.

I plan on keeping this vehicle for awhile, and I was thinking about replacing the converter going into the next fluid exchange, or before winter.

Might not be remotely needed, but the alternative is far more costly.

I don't know much about the options for converters, assuming a dual-clutch over a triple-clutch, replace input seal, and rear main seal since the trans will be removed.

My questions are if I do this:

Are the flexplate bolts reusable?

Is the transfer case input seal serviceable from the outside?

Is the output seal on the trans serviceable from the outside?

Is the trans a pain to remove without a lift, will be done in the garage or driveway, or easy enough if I only need to slide it backwards a few feet?

Converters have really gone up in price, many good ones, any recommendation is welcome.

I appreciate all input and criticism.

 

[Geotrash]

This is for my 2012 XL Denali, for the sake of discussion, I currently I have no issues with my transmission.

Going back....I was aware of the issues with the 6L80E in general before I bought this 2 years ago, so my plan was very likely to replace the converter in whatever I bought. Dealer records show a trans flush at 60K, I bought it with 90K and now it has 120K.

I plan on keeping this vehicle for awhile, and I was thinking about replacing the converter going into the next fluid exchange, or before winter.

Might not be remotely needed, but the alternative is far more costly.

I don't know much about the options for converters, assuming a dual-clutch over a triple-clutch, replace input seal, and rear main seal since the trans will be removed.

My questions are if I do this:

Are the flexplate bolts reusable?

Is the transfer case input seal serviceable from the outside?

Is the output seal on the trans serviceable from the outside?

Is the trans a pain to remove without a lift, will be done in the garage or driveway, or easy enough if I only need to slide it backwards a few feet?

Converters have really gone up in price, many good ones, any recommendation is welcome.

I appreciate all input and criticism.

I paid to have this done proactively on my 2012 in 2021 because I was towing heavy with it and was about the same mileage. Local transmission indy shop put in a CVC BU60FHD (billet cover, stock stall, stronger lockup clutch), along with a new rear main seal. I didn’t have them touch anything else but what was needed to do the job right. They may have put in a new transmission front seal but I’m not sure. I paid $1400 out the door.

That said, @donjetman has done this job on a lift in his garage, and I’ve read of people doing it on tall jackstands. It’s doable but that 6L80 is a heavy mother.

 

[wjburken]

I paid to have this done proactively on my 2012 in 2021 because I was towing heavy with it and was about the same mileage. Local transmission indy shop put in a CVC BU60FHD (billet cover, stock stall, stronger lockup clutch), along with a new rear main seal. I didn’t have them touch anything else but what was needed to do the job right. They may have put in a new transmission front seal but I’m not sure. I paid $1400 out the door.

That said, @donjetman has done this job on a lift in his garage, and I’ve read of people doing it on tall jackstands. It’s doable but that 6L80 is a heavy mother.

Doing it in jack stands is doable as long as you have tall enough jack stands. I have a set of 6 ton jack stands that put the frame high enough to get the transmission out from under it. I also have a high lift jack that will lift it high enough.

The 6L80 is about the same size as the 4r100 in my sons F-350. I bought a Harbor freight transmission jack for $225 and it came in handy for handling the transmission. It has a 800# capacity.

 

[donjetman]

I didn't have a transmission jack so I lowered the vehicle down near the floor and used other types of jacks:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/rear-main-seal-job-pan-etc-07-yukon-denali-6-2.108334/

 

[Doubeleive]

I would say do it since it is cheaper than a rebuild later

 

[j91z28d1]

I don't have one, but I'm pretty sure I'd be replacing the converter too if I had it.

the money saved on replacing the tranny from the converter going bag could be used to justify a set of quick jacks? they have suv ones. I only have the regular once I got years before prices went dumb. but I do find them very useful and will probably pick up suv adaptors. that and one of those scissor type HF tranny jacks could make the job much easier on your back?

i only say that because it sounds like you have a Ford to take care of too and I've never regretted buying stuff to make my life easier.

 

[dkad260]

Thanks, I will check out the HF jack, also looking to get one for ATV's so maybe this will serve both.

Nice write up @donjetman What seals the bottom of the rear seal to the pan?

 

[donjetman]

Thanks, I will check out the HF jack, also looking to get one for ATV's so maybe this will serve both.

Nice write up @donjetman What seals the bottom of the rear seal to the pan?

I don't understand the question?

 

[dkad260]

I don't understand the question?

Sorry, I was referring to where the bottom of the plate for the rear seal meets up with the rear of the oil pan.

At least it looks like they join there.

 

[Geotrash]

Sorry, I was referring to where the bottom of the plate for the rear seal meets up with the rear of the oil pan.

At least it looks like they join there.

Black RTV. Standard procedure for the oil pan corners on these engines.