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My brain stopped braining. The sensor is there and the correct bearing gets ordered tonight.
Dead spot in steering + discontinued part - SOLVED
- Thread starter Roilux
- Start date
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6/28 Update: A bracket to depress the lock plate was simple to make and worked well. Access to the bearing was granted. Removal of the remaining plastic bits for shift lever, ignition housing and a turn indicator plate that blocked accessing two more bolts became a breeze.
Now that the column is stripped to this point I'm left with two choices:
1. Removal of two peened and threaded thick grub type screws that the tilt unit pivots on. That will allow separating the tilt housing and extracting the steering shaft. The procedure needs to then be done again on the '04 column.
2. Pull the '04 column, begin reassembling the donor column with '04 parts and then reinstall an essentially renewed unit.
Choice #1 is preferred as the original column stays in the vehicle and I avoid handling many electrical connections, bundled wires, retaining clips and a metal shield beneath the column. That path now literally hinges on whether or not those big grubby type screws play nice and come out with the resources at hand .... four times. (last photo)
This feels like preparing to operate on a hip joint while the experience level is that of clipping toenails.
Tidbit: I'm curious why the steering shaft I seek was offered solo and with a portion of the tilt unit attached before both were discontinued. Perhaps solo = more labor $$, and as a unit = considerably more $$ yet less time to replace.
Now that the column is stripped to this point I'm left with two choices:
1. Removal of two peened and threaded thick grub type screws that the tilt unit pivots on. That will allow separating the tilt housing and extracting the steering shaft. The procedure needs to then be done again on the '04 column.
2. Pull the '04 column, begin reassembling the donor column with '04 parts and then reinstall an essentially renewed unit.
Choice #1 is preferred as the original column stays in the vehicle and I avoid handling many electrical connections, bundled wires, retaining clips and a metal shield beneath the column. That path now literally hinges on whether or not those big grubby type screws play nice and come out with the resources at hand .... four times. (last photo)
This feels like preparing to operate on a hip joint while the experience level is that of clipping toenails.
Tidbit: I'm curious why the steering shaft I seek was offered solo and with a portion of the tilt unit attached before both were discontinued. Perhaps solo = more labor $$, and as a unit = considerably more $$ yet less time to replace.
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Marky Dissod
Full Access Member
Just to be sure, use an excess amount of tire shine on your tires, get some on the treads, and go test your StabiliTrak ...
Thank you, but it's not quite as bad as you think. Point is to EASILY induce MILD slides at manageable road speeds and not stain your britches.
It's how I taught many teens how to handle snowy conditions in June. And by the way, taught them in a '94 Chevy Caprice LT1, with no 'stability' or 'traction' control.
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Mild slides you say?
I started driving in WWW .... ... .. . Windy Wyoming Winters where momentum was King, traction was Queen and poor vehicle choices brought out Jacks & 
. Now that I'm in SoCal I tend to stay inside when it starts to rain. Idiot drivers abound here. 
Having shared that, I've never tested StabiliTrak on vs StabiliTrak off aaaaaand now I'm curious.
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An earlier post lamented about swapping steering shafts vs transferring components between columns being the better choice.
Apparently, pivot pins in the tilt mechanism are pressed in. This tool is used to remove them.
Once both pivot pins are out, the tilt mechanism separates and the shaft can be removed.
Alrighty then, choice #1 it is.
Apparently, pivot pins in the tilt mechanism are pressed in. This tool is used to remove them.
Once both pivot pins are out, the tilt mechanism separates and the shaft can be removed.
Alrighty then, choice #1 it is.
OP
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I'll tackle finishing the shaft swap when the Wolf shaft bearing arrives next week.
That will keep crawling up under the dash to just 'oNe MoRe tIMe'.
In the meantime, steering column shafts have been located. Searching by part number results in out of stock, discontinued, or "0" listings depending on the website. However, when searching for "GMC SILVERADO SUBURBAN TAHOE TILT STEERING COLUMN SHAFT" on eBay, three 'used' listing appeared with prices from $40 to $115.
I was curious if the tilt spheres could be rebuilt but apparently not. The previous tilt shafts in OBS vehicles have sphere rebuild kits available. NBS shafts don't appear to be rebuildable but with a twist of a couple Torx bolts can be stiffened up a bit.
That will keep crawling up under the dash to just 'oNe MoRe tIMe'.
In the meantime, steering column shafts have been located. Searching by part number results in out of stock, discontinued, or "0" listings depending on the website. However, when searching for "GMC SILVERADO SUBURBAN TAHOE TILT STEERING COLUMN SHAFT" on eBay, three 'used' listing appeared with prices from $40 to $115.
I was curious if the tilt spheres could be rebuilt but apparently not. The previous tilt shafts in OBS vehicles have sphere rebuild kits available. NBS shafts don't appear to be rebuildable but with a twist of a couple Torx bolts can be stiffened up a bit.
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Update 7/11: The steering column shaft is out and donor shaft is in along with the Wolff bearing. I'm pleased with keeping the steering column in the vehicle while making the swap. Everything that has been disassembled would still be disassembled with the column on a workbench including the bolt securing the shaft to the upper intermediate shaft. Once the instrument bezel and knee panel were removed there's just enough room to access necessary clips, bolts and pins.
The first photo may look like a rat's nest, yet it's actually rather tidy. Turn signal assembly to the left, clock spring below that, ignition assembly to the right with gear selection components at 6 o'clock.
All these components must be removed to access a circle clip on the shaft directly in front of the tilt assembly. Removing the tilt spring underneath the column needed a tug in the middle to pop out. Once that circle clip has been removed, only the pivot pins keep the mechanism from separating.
While the cover was off the column I discovered the wire connecting the tow/haul button on the shift lever had developed a 1/8" wide bare spot and 50% of the wire strands had worn through. That wire is subject to movement from the tilt mechanism and gear selection lever. Normal wear me thinks. Also the horn contact only has one tab keeping it in place. A little splicing and soldering is in order, and then .......
Assessing how much steering play has been reduced will follow with a jaunt around the block.
The first photo may look like a rat's nest, yet it's actually rather tidy. Turn signal assembly to the left, clock spring below that, ignition assembly to the right with gear selection components at 6 o'clock.
All these components must be removed to access a circle clip on the shaft directly in front of the tilt assembly. Removing the tilt spring underneath the column needed a tug in the middle to pop out. Once that circle clip has been removed, only the pivot pins keep the mechanism from separating.
While the cover was off the column I discovered the wire connecting the tow/haul button on the shift lever had developed a 1/8" wide bare spot and 50% of the wire strands had worn through. That wire is subject to movement from the tilt mechanism and gear selection lever. Normal wear me thinks. Also the horn contact only has one tab keeping it in place. A little splicing and soldering is in order, and then .......
Assessing how much steering play has been reduced will follow with a jaunt around the block.
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mikez71
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Just to add a little more clarification, my '05 Suburban does not have JL4 option or Stabilitrak..
But still has a steering wheel position sensor, which interfaces with the EBCM, BCM and Z55 suspension module.
mattbta
Full Access Member
It was Gemini and the response matched my RPO's, but all AI should be verified.
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Steering nirvana has been attained. Straight line travel, parking lot maneuvers and simply turning corners are all on par with that 'new-vehicle' feel. It was worth the effort and I am pleased.
While both steering column shafts were on a bench there was only a slight difference noted in movement, but it was there. When taking into account the radius of an arc and diameter of the steering wheel, the smallest movement became several degrees of travel.
I'll post a before and after video soon.
Footnote for this entire effort:
ULTRA-POWER upper and lower intermediate steering shafts were purchased from Rock Auto for $131 to originally eliminate that clunk we all know of. It was a median price point between Genuine GM parts and $25-$35 components found on Amazon. They've now been junked after about 2k miles of use.
Not only are the ULTRA-POWER shafts low quality that deformed easily at connecting points thereby introducing steering wheel play, the shafts do not compress in the event of a serious collision. The fluted appearance is purely a cosmetic element added to the outside of the shaft. Dorman has a video on their website with shaft cutaways illustrating the differences between brands.
I can confirm that Genuine GM and Dorman steering shafts retain safety elements engineered into our GMT800s. Other brands should be checked as YMMV.
While both steering column shafts were on a bench there was only a slight difference noted in movement, but it was there. When taking into account the radius of an arc and diameter of the steering wheel, the smallest movement became several degrees of travel.
I'll post a before and after video soon.
Footnote for this entire effort:
ULTRA-POWER upper and lower intermediate steering shafts were purchased from Rock Auto for $131 to originally eliminate that clunk we all know of. It was a median price point between Genuine GM parts and $25-$35 components found on Amazon. They've now been junked after about 2k miles of use.
Not only are the ULTRA-POWER shafts low quality that deformed easily at connecting points thereby introducing steering wheel play, the shafts do not compress in the event of a serious collision. The fluted appearance is purely a cosmetic element added to the outside of the shaft. Dorman has a video on their website with shaft cutaways illustrating the differences between brands.
I can confirm that Genuine GM and Dorman steering shafts retain safety elements engineered into our GMT800s. Other brands should be checked as YMMV.
OP
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The 'before' "before" had more play than displayed here. I'd not thought to shoot video of it then.
The "after" segment is a culmination of replacing suspension & steering parts starting with hubs, pitman + idler arms, tie rod ends, bushings and upper + lower A arms two years ago. Recent parts replacement has included Edlemann Elite 3009 steering box, Dorman lower and intermediate steering shafts, Wolff steering shaft bearing, steering column shaft (used, yet tight) and fresh grease where needed.
I've a 3,500 mile trip planned for this summer. All belts and hoses have been replaced, only an oil change remains to be done before setting out.
Thanks to fellow TYF'ers for sharing info on subjects ranging from bumper to bumper. I have benefited greatly.
May somebody else glean needed info from my steering wheel play experience.
The "after" segment is a culmination of replacing suspension & steering parts starting with hubs, pitman + idler arms, tie rod ends, bushings and upper + lower A arms two years ago. Recent parts replacement has included Edlemann Elite 3009 steering box, Dorman lower and intermediate steering shafts, Wolff steering shaft bearing, steering column shaft (used, yet tight) and fresh grease where needed.
I've a 3,500 mile trip planned for this summer. All belts and hoses have been replaced, only an oil change remains to be done before setting out.
Thanks to fellow TYF'ers for sharing info on subjects ranging from bumper to bumper. I have benefited greatly.
May somebody else glean needed info from my steering wheel play experience.
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Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Wow! Nice. Mine is exactly like your "before".
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I know of an end to end remedy for that now ----> Parts Canon and the shaft that shall not be named.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
I have a spare column from a jy Tahoe, not sure of the mileage on it. I wonder if it's better then mine.I know of an end to end remedy for that now ----> Parts Canon and the shaft that shall not be named.
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I don't know of the mileage of the shaft now in use but it had no play in the joint. A friend held one end with vice grips as I turned steering wheels. Of the shafts inspected, most had virtually no play, one was worse than my original and there's The One I bought with no play.
If I ever need to assess where steering wheel play is coming from in the future, I now know to include the steering column shaft. Clamp it down with vice grips just above where the upper intermediate shaft connects and then wiggle the steering wheel. No wiggle? It's now a one way trip through the steering components to find what's worn.
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I'm glad to read that your issue is resolved. Please add the word "FIXED" or "SOLVED" to your thread's title, to let others who are experiencing a similar issue know that this thread has an identified solution.
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Thank you, will do in the future.
