Note.... The oil level sensor and vehicles equipped with it is insulated from the oil pan. The entire sensor including the threads is plastic.... So the switch inside doesn't connect to ground or anything, it just connects the two wires.
Build thread - LMG 5.3 to L96 6.0 swap
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mikez71
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Looks like oil temp and level in the sensor..
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DaveO9
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Excellent, thank you! So does that mean I can jumper pins 33 (oil level switch signal) and 24 (low reference) to provide the signal?
mikez71
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Pretty much.. The only thing, it looks variable in the diagram to me..
I read a post where someone jumpered the wires to bypass a broken sensor,
BUT that was an older '02-'03 model and the level sensor looked like a switch in the diagram.
Worst case, you might need a resistor if it's outside the range the ECM is expecting?
Although looking at the sensor itself, it looks like a float and there isn't much range of motion, so probably still just a switch...
Here's some info on later model sensors saying RTV silicone in the oil can mess with the readings..
gm-techlink.com
I read a post where someone jumpered the wires to bypass a broken sensor,
BUT that was an older '02-'03 model and the level sensor looked like a switch in the diagram.
Worst case, you might need a resistor if it's outside the range the ECM is expecting?
Although looking at the sensor itself, it looks like a float and there isn't much range of motion, so probably still just a switch...
Here's some info on later model sensors saying RTV silicone in the oil can mess with the readings..
Low Oil or Add Oil DIC Messages – TechLink
gm-techlink.com
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I wonder what year they added the oil temperature sensor there. I know the 2003s only had two wires to the level sensor.
I'm thinking if your ECM monitors oil temperature, it's probably in the algorithm along with other sensors to control radiator fan speed, fuel mixture and overall performance.... And probably some form of limp mode if it gets excessively high. I would probably run a wire from the pin out for that, and mounted temperature sensor in a tee fitting along with the oil pressure sending unit.... Or you can mount one on the driver side of the engine, just above the oil pan lip towards the front. Adapters are readily available. (I use such an adapter to thread in a hose barb when priming a new engine, then remove the hose barb and put an NPT plug in the adapter. My '03 Hummer with the 6.0 does have an oil temperature sensor screwed in there for a gauge)
I'm thinking if your ECM monitors oil temperature, it's probably in the algorithm along with other sensors to control radiator fan speed, fuel mixture and overall performance.... And probably some form of limp mode if it gets excessively high. I would probably run a wire from the pin out for that, and mounted temperature sensor in a tee fitting along with the oil pressure sending unit.... Or you can mount one on the driver side of the engine, just above the oil pan lip towards the front. Adapters are readily available. (I use such an adapter to thread in a hose barb when priming a new engine, then remove the hose barb and put an NPT plug in the adapter. My '03 Hummer with the 6.0 does have an oil temperature sensor screwed in there for a gauge)
Was doing some reading, read that starting in 2007/2008, the oil temperature parameter was added into the algorithm for calculating the engine oil life for the display on the dash.
So to keep this from screwing up that calculation (Which I wouldn't recommend anyone to follow.... 3500 to 5,000 mi max depending on how it's used).... I would go ahead and install an oil temperature sending unit in that port mentioned above. You'll get basically the same temperature reading right off the oil pump as you would get in the oil pan.
So to keep this from screwing up that calculation (Which I wouldn't recommend anyone to follow.... 3500 to 5,000 mi max depending on how it's used).... I would go ahead and install an oil temperature sending unit in that port mentioned above. You'll get basically the same temperature reading right off the oil pump as you would get in the oil pan.
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DaveO9
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I work with a bunch of electrical engineers (I'm a civil) and I was talking to one of them today about that sensor and its wiring diagram. We're thinking that, yes, it's variable so you get a range of temps, but the input to the oil level pin just needs to have a voltage (1-5v?). To put it another way, if oil level is good, switch is closed and it sends some voltage to pin 33. If oil level is low, switch is open and pin 33 gets 0 volts. Does that seem correct?Pretty much.. The only thing, it looks variable in the diagram to me..
I read a post where someone jumpered the wires to bypass a broken sensor,
BUT that was an older '02-'03 model and the level sensor looked like a switch in the diagram.
Worst case, you might need a resistor if it's outside the range the ECM is expecting?
Although looking at the sensor itself, it looks like a float and there isn't much range of motion, so probably still just a switch...
Here's some info on later model sensors saying RTV silicone in the oil can mess with the readings..
Low Oil or Add Oil DIC Messages – TechLink
I don't believe my original LMG had an oil temp sensor, nor does the new L96. But maybe the 2013 caprice L77 that the tune came from did? As for adding oil temp sensor, what about a sandwich plate at the oil filter mount? Seems like the easiest option?
What's the wiring for the temp sensor? Is it two wire with one going to Low Ref pin 24 and the other going to Pin 23? Or does it need a 12v power source?
mikez71
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Yes that seems correct.
Both other pins 23 & 33 should be + voltage, using lo ref to ground. The ECM senses the current through the positive pins is how I'm reading it. Since it is labelled 'oil lvl sw signal', I take it to mean it is a switch. But since it connects to middle of resistor, may normally have some resistance when closed? If connecting pins directly doesn't work, you could try measuring a sensor..
Both other pins 23 & 33 should be + voltage, using lo ref to ground. The ECM senses the current through the positive pins is how I'm reading it. Since it is labelled 'oil lvl sw signal', I take it to mean it is a switch. But since it connects to middle of resistor, may normally have some resistance when closed? If connecting pins directly doesn't work, you could try measuring a sensor..
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DaveO9
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Yep, I'm going to do some testing and see if there is 5v where expected before I jumper anything. Thanks for the input. (pun intended!)
donjetman
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yep, I've been getting that "Low Oil Level" at each start on my DIC for a while now although its full
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DaveO9
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Ok time for some tuning talk.
My tuner used a base file from a 2013 L77. L77 is an aluminum 6.0 block used in that era of Caprice PPV (and some Holden cars) – 10.4 CR, with AFM, but no VVT. Although HP and torque are similar, it’s a bit different than my iron block L96 – 9.6 CR, no AFM but with VVT. Tuner used this as a starting place since it has the same OS as my original LMG tune, whereas the L96 files did not. The engine runs great with a smooth idle and no stumbles anywhere I’ve noticed, but there are at least three issues I’m seeing with the L77 tune: 1) it’s running rich. Getting persistent P0172 codes for both banks. 2) the issue described above with the fake oil level warning, 3) I really would like to have VVT enabled. I have the stock L96 cam, I might as well get the benefit of that system.
After talking with tuner, we’re going to abandon the L77 tune, go back to my original LMG tune (AMF already tuned out) and then bring in all the appropriate tables and values from a 2013 L96 tune. My tuner uses both EFI Live and TunerCat. We first talked about me using the free version of EFI Live to make the mods to the LMG file, but I don’t believe the free version allows me to mod and save. So we are now at him making the mods in TunerCat. I’ve worked with him for 10+ years, 3 different vehicles, and he’s charging me a very fair price. (We also discussed doing an email tune through BlackBear but that’s outside of my budget at this moment). I believe I’ll end up with a mostly stock L96 tune, with some torque management parameters modified. He previously tuned my trans – the only change there is I’m asking him to allow lockup in 4th as well as 5th and 6th, since I have a new, upgraded Luk TC. There may be some shift table recalibration required for that.
Does all this sound OK? Any red flags?
My tuner used a base file from a 2013 L77. L77 is an aluminum 6.0 block used in that era of Caprice PPV (and some Holden cars) – 10.4 CR, with AFM, but no VVT. Although HP and torque are similar, it’s a bit different than my iron block L96 – 9.6 CR, no AFM but with VVT. Tuner used this as a starting place since it has the same OS as my original LMG tune, whereas the L96 files did not. The engine runs great with a smooth idle and no stumbles anywhere I’ve noticed, but there are at least three issues I’m seeing with the L77 tune: 1) it’s running rich. Getting persistent P0172 codes for both banks. 2) the issue described above with the fake oil level warning, 3) I really would like to have VVT enabled. I have the stock L96 cam, I might as well get the benefit of that system.
After talking with tuner, we’re going to abandon the L77 tune, go back to my original LMG tune (AMF already tuned out) and then bring in all the appropriate tables and values from a 2013 L96 tune. My tuner uses both EFI Live and TunerCat. We first talked about me using the free version of EFI Live to make the mods to the LMG file, but I don’t believe the free version allows me to mod and save. So we are now at him making the mods in TunerCat. I’ve worked with him for 10+ years, 3 different vehicles, and he’s charging me a very fair price. (We also discussed doing an email tune through BlackBear but that’s outside of my budget at this moment). I believe I’ll end up with a mostly stock L96 tune, with some torque management parameters modified. He previously tuned my trans – the only change there is I’m asking him to allow lockup in 4th as well as 5th and 6th, since I have a new, upgraded Luk TC. There may be some shift table recalibration required for that.
Does all this sound OK? Any red flags?
strutaeng
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Why can't he do a L96 base file tune as a starting point?
