Budget rebuild items?

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Charlie207

Charlie207

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Piston ring party.


Then I sent them all home.

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Charlie207

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After installing the new cam, and getting the old cam sprocket off (new tool, yay!) I realized that I hadn't ever checked the condition of the original cam retainer plate seal. Of course it was completely squashed, so progress was halted while I ordered another one. $19 for a GM plate online or $44 for an aftermarket version in person at AutoZone/O'Reily's. What a PITA.

Also had to order a new power steering pump/resevoir for my Yukon, as it's leaking through the rusty hardline. The plan was to buy a new one for the 6.0, but I'll just swap the new part from the 5.3 (and the alternator & bracket) onto the 6.0.
 

strutaeng

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After installing the new cam, and getting the old cam sprocket off (new tool, yay!) I realized that I hadn't ever checked the condition of the original cam retainer plate seal. Of course it was completely squashed, so progress was halted while I ordered another one. $19 for a GM plate online or $44 for an aftermarket version in person at AutoZone/O'Reily's. What a PITA.

Also had to order a new power steering pump/resevoir for my Yukon, as it's leaking through the rusty hardline. The plan was to buy a new one for the 6.0, but I'll just swap the new part from the 5.3 (and the alternator & bracket) onto the 6.0.
It's coming along! Great job!
 
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Charlie207

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if you have time, I've heard even millings thinks adding the 2nd bolt to the pick up tube is worth while. the interview I was listening to thou it might help with all the o ring failures when they get old.
I actually bought one of those "Y"-shaped clamps to thread into the unused hole on the oil pump.
 
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Charlie207

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Decided to fire up the kid's never-used 3D printer, and make a front timing cover alignment tool, instead of paying $30+ for an aluminum version. I was thinking about just using the new harmonic balancer to center the cover, but this seemed like a fun little project.

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It needed about 10 minutes of sanding to get the ID smoothed out (the kid's printer probably has the opposite of a high-resolution nozzle, so a couple thousand & rough) so it would slide down the crankshaft with a little lube, and not feel like it was going to break apart.

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Just waiting on the additional oil pickup tube clamp, then I can seal up the bottom-end.
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Charlie207

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Emailed BlackBear Performance, and in their reply they let me know that the 5.3 injectors and torque converter would be sufficient for my plans.

Reusing the injectors will save me a few hundred bucks that I can put towards a new (stock) converter. He said the extra torque of the 6.0 should slightly raise the stall speed. I'm now looking at the 6L90 converter to slap in when I get the engine split from the gearbox.

Precision of New Hampton: (https://gopnh.com/) said they won't sell to an individual via an online order, so I'll have to call, which seems weird in 2024.
 
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Charlie207

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I bought mine thru a local drag racer friend that owns a local company and is a Precision dealer. Had to give them my ole TC or get charged for a core.
Ok, so I'd need to find a dealer or shop to order it through. Seems like a middleman fee.
 

j91z28d1

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Ok, so I'd need to find a dealer or shop to order it through. Seems like a middleman fee.


15% market up on everything unless you're good friends blah.

if you have the part number you want you might get summit racing to drop ship it for you.
 
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Charlie207

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Finally started thinking about the top of the engine, and discovered this gem on Sunday... there's a hole in the top of the intake manifold that was covered up with a piece of tape. Not sure how I didn't notice it before, but in my defense I pulled off the manifold and put it in a box with the hardware when I first got the engine in my basement, and haven't thought about it since.

You can see the tape covering the hole in this photo from the middle of March.
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Up close:
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I spent a while reading up on how others have dealt with this issue (holes and/or cracks), and the material is glass-fiber reinforced nylon (PA6-GF30). There's some plastic epoxy that you can schmoo together and build a plug to seal it up. Or, you can buy a nylon spatula, and cut out a patch to either epoxy or melt (with a sufficiently hot soldering iron) into place. The manifold is currently soaking in a big container with lots of degreaser.
 

donjetman

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Those lifters sound too good to be true.
GM Bowtie lifters # 88958689 are $538.
 
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Charlie207

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Charlie207

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Those lifters sound too good to be true.
GM Bowtie lifters # 88958689 are $538.
I just realized that's a totally different part#/part.

Racing vs. OEM lifters, not that it diminishes your point. I've been stalking that website/company for a while, and it seems like folks in the Corvette forums have had good luck with them.

It wouldn't surprise me if these are just "blems" (hence the "no factory packaging"). I interned at Ruger for a summer back in college, and there's an internal-only list of blem guns that comes out every month or so, that can't pass final-assenbly QC for visual reasons, so employees can buy them for huge discounts, like 50%+ off depending on the model. If I wasn't a poor college kid at the time I would have bought them all.
 
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Charlie207

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Found a once-used 4,000lb. engine hoist w/extra engine stand for $200 delivered to my door.

Sounds like it sat for a while, but after leaving an 80lb floor jack hanging all evening it only came down a couple degrees, so I'll be at least a little confident I won't fúçk something up.

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