Broken Motor Mounts

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Mrae11

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Not being a jerk but yes. At one point or another, I think there has been a complaint about all of these. Chief of which are motor mounts and cracks in the dash.
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Yes

Not being a jerk but yes. At one point or another, I think there has been a complaint about all of these. Chief of which are motor mounts and cracks in the dash.

I just can’t believe that at almost 70,000 miles all these problems are happening. My last Yukon went over 100,000 without these problems
 

Rocket Man

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I keep coming back here to see if someone has discovered a better motor mount, but continue to be disappointed. While I did find someone on one of the Truck forums fab up some solid mounts, I think that's a bit much on an otherwise stock vehicle.

So I guess I'll have to replace what we have with a factory replacement. I'm wondering if an engine torque damper would help the mounts live? Anyone try one? I'm looking at the Ingall's '04 GTO damper kit. Of course, one would have to modify the mounts, but the damper is the important part.

Thoughts?
There's a guy on pt.net selling solid mounts and he says you can't really tell they're solid, there's very little vibration. They're guaranteed to never break.
 

08grey

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There's a guy on pt.net selling solid mounts and he says you can't really tell they're solid, there's very little vibration. They're guaranteed to never break.
More info please.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

Kenny D

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After looking on Autozone, I think the lower mounting flange would be the same, just the engine mount frame would be different for the NNBS 5.3L. Just wonder how much the solid mounts would have to be modified?
 

Rocket Man

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After looking on Autozone, I think the lower mounting flange would be the same, just the engine mount frame would be different for the NNBS 5.3L. Just wonder how much the solid mounts would have to be modified?
In that thread on pt.net, post #123 on page 13, there's a guy who said he had a machine shop working on some and he was going to get them going. I would join that site if you're not a member so you can send him a PM. They shut his postings down in that thread since it was for selling the op's product.
 

CrashTestDummy

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Heh, I see that. As the last poster mentioned, lots of orders, and only one, or two responses on how they worked. Kind of light in the response department. Odd they show NNBS Yukon XLs with 6.0L engines to fit, but none of the other NNBS trucks/engine combinations. The 6.0L Yukon does show a different motor mount, too, from the 6.2/5.3. Really, really odd.

So I guess I'll just replace what we have with OEM, and then work on some of torque limiter. Now, if I can just determine which of the two mount options we have.....
 

techbiker

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Has anyone tried supporting their 5.3L motor by the oil pan with a transmission jack and a piece of plywood in order to change their mounts? I don't mind changing the OEM mounts out every ~50k as long as the motor can be supported by the oil pan. I don't have room to store a cherry picker.

Thanks
 

Kenny D

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Most of us here have used a jack of some sort. I used a bottle jack with a piece of wood on my oil pan. I just was very careful and placed the wood towards the rear of the pan instead of the middle where there is no support.
 

iamdub

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The cast LS pans are actually a structural part of the bottom end of the engine, so it's pretty strong. I doubt they engineered it intentionally to support the engine with a jack on the bottom, but it's obviously fine as long as the load is spread out.
 

Meccanoble

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I also used a standard harbor freight 2 ton jack with wood on top on the rear of oil pan. On the 4X4, there isnt much room elsewhere on the oil pan to jack the engine up. The wood is more to brace the impact as contact with jack could bend, dent, or puncture hole.
 

iamdub

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There are some solid and flat points on the bottom of the block on each side that can be used for lifting the motor. They're kinda small, but if you're doing one side at a time this shouldn't be a problem. Either way, you should only be lifting it just what's necessary.
 

techbiker

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There are some solid and flat points on the bottom of the block on each side that can be used for lifting the motor. They're kinda small, but if you're doing one side at a time this shouldn't be a problem. Either way, you should only be lifting it just what's necessary.

Great info! I am always cautious around oil pans. My 300zx oil pan is made of thin stamped metal and can be dented by road debris. If you look at a 300zx OEM oil pan the wrong way, it will probably cave in lol.
 

swat2380

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I'm going to tackle this soon and plan on doing both at the same time. Been thinking that if one is bad the good mount has been flexing more than it should. That will probably shorten the life of the other which likely already has more "play" than it should supporting a bad mount. In turn this will make the new one work harder from the start and so on. This is all in theory but it makes sense in my head. May as well do the trans mount while I'm at it too
 

Rocket Man

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I'm going to tackle this soon and plan on doing both at the same time. Been thinking that if one is bad the good mount has been flexing more than it should. That will probably shorten the life of the other which likely already has more "play" than it should supporting a bad mount. In turn this will make the new one work harder from the start and so on. This is all in theory but it makes sense in my head. May as well do the trans mount while I'm at it too
You might rethink that after doing one from what I've heard about how much fun they are. You know what they say, if it ain't broke...
 

08HoeCD

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The driver side mount suffers from being stretched during the engine’s power stroke whereas the passenger side mount experiences compression; thus, the driver side mount seems to fail earlier and more frequently than does the passenger side mount.
 

Rocket Man

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The driver side mount suffers from being stretched during the engine’s power stroke whereas the passenger side mount experiences compression; thus, the driver side mount seems to fail earlier and more frequently than does the passenger side mount.
Yeah I've literally never heard of the passenger side going bad. I suppose it's possible but unlikely.
 

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