Broken Motor Mounts

[Da90]

Some engines must use rubber mounts as they are part of balancing the engine. A solid mount would soon tear the engine apart. I thought that I read somewhere these LS engines were that way too. Such was the case with the old Buick V6s.

I could see that but what about all these vettes and Camaros running around solid mounted?


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[Da90]

I sent my pics to a buddy of mine who happens to be the same guy who tuned my truck. This is what he sent me. We discussed this issue when he tuned my truck. It like where’s Waldo with all the clutter! Haha!

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[iamdub]

I don't really like the idea of a solid mount. The vibes from the engine transferred to the frame and cabin are one thing. But the shocks from hitting sharp bumps are only absorbed so much by the suspension. The rest are transferred to the frame, which the engine block is now essentially a part of. I just think that's some excessive forces to be put on those 3 or 4 bolting points. It might take some hardcore off-roading or really hard street driving to crack an engine block, but shit happens.

 

[Da90]

I don't really like the idea of a solid mount. The vibes from the engine transferred to the frame and cabin are one thing. But the shocks from hitting sharp bumps are only absorbed so much by the suspension. The rest are transferred to the frame, which the engine block is now essentially a part of. I just think that's some excessive forces to be put on those 3 or 4 bolting points. It might take some hard core off-roading or really hard street driving to crack an engine block, but shit happens.

Good point. I beat on my trucks pretty hard. Like you said shit happens! We shall see....


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[swathdiver]

I could see that but what about all these vettes and Camaros running around solid mounted?

I don't know, these engines are new to me still.

What we did with the Buicks was to add a turnbuckle between the alternator bracket and the upper control arm bolt giving it just enough slack to move some but not enough to bust the driver's side mount and transmission mount which we did quite frequently.

I wasn't worried about my mounts but since the Black Bear tune, when the truck downshifts back into first such as when coming out of a u-turn the whole front end lifts up as the motor spins towards 6,000 rpms. After doing that tonight my tranny made some funny bumps/shudders as I slowed to the next light and it was down-shifting back to first. Didn't do it again though.

 

[Kenny D]

Looking at the "solid" modification in the above post seems like a good idea, but I would think you would still need some give. I haven't gotten around to changing mine out yet, but I think I will still go with the chain idea. I'd rather have a little give but set the chain to where it is limited. Looking how bad that busted mount looked, I need to set aside time to get mine done, the thump is getting worse on mine.

 

[08HoeCD]

I have had an intermittently vibrating ride during braking for a while. Initially thought it was warped rotors but replaced brakes and it still was present now and then. Discovered my driver side motor mount was toast. Replaced it today----or, should say, paid a shop to replace it today. No more vibrating.

Just hope that the new mount lasts.

 

[Kenny D]

I did mine Saturday. What a PITA. I have never wanted a lift so bad in my life. I ache in places I have never ached in before. I am a big guy and big guys don't fit in small places.

Mine wasn't torn completely apart but it had some serious cracks in it. I had just began to start bending the cross bolt. Also I noticed that the bolts on the engine block were not very tight. The bolts on the frame were tight all the way out. Going back in, I had hell with one bolt and had to "work" the hole to get the bolt to thread back into the frame. I bought the Anchor brand with Lifetime warranty. God forbid I have to replace it, if I do, I am going to pay someone to do it.

 

[08HoeCD]

I did mine Saturday. What a PITA. I have never wanted a lift so bad in my life. I ache in places I have never ached in before.

God forbid I have to replace it, if I do, I am going to pay someone to do it.

Glad that you got it done, but I totally understand your point about this being a major PITA.

I watched more than a few YouTube videos on this task and tried to talk myself into doing it myself with the help of a buddy. I ultimately decided to just bite the bullet and pay a shop to do it----and most people who post about doing it seem to say that is they had to do it over again they'd rather pay someone to do versus tackling it again.

 

[Meccanoble]

I just tried to tackle this job this weekend and couldnt finish. Easily took bolts holding from top but since I have a DIFF in the way, the video I studied religiously didnt apply. I also bought an ANchor mount so I really need to do this job myself in the event that it breaks again. If it was OEM I was installing, I would feel better about letting someone do it and thinking it was a once in a long time thing...studying more and hoping to go back in and get this done once and for all through fender.

 

[Kenny D]

The lower bolts can easily be reached from the top with a wobble joint and long extensions.

http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thre...cement-w-o-diff-removal-quick-write-up.92510/

 

[Meccanoble]

The lower bolts can easily be reached from the top with a wobble joint and long extensions.

http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thre...cement-w-o-diff-removal-quick-write-up.92510/

Those are the easy ones. I dread the process below.

7) Now comes the fun park, getting to the engine-side bolts. FRONT BOLTS: I removed the front skid plate (four 15mm bolts) and set it aside. I could now almost it up in the engine bay between the motor and the fans. I tried using this as my access point for the front, engine-side bolts but it proved to be too much to keep a ratchet on the bolt. So I got out eh step stool and laid over the radiator support and loosened the bolts from the top by going down behind the alternator bracket, underneath the exhaust manifold. Once the bolts break loose you should be able to remove them by hand. These are 15mm bolts by the way. I ended up using a 15mm deep socket, 3”extension and a 3/8 drive ratchet to loosen them and the used a 15mm shallow socket at the 3” extension to remove them with my hand.


8) REAR BOLTS: Remove the straps from the front u-joint of the front drive shaft (four 13mm bolts IIRC). Make sure your truck is in 2WD so you can spin the driveshaft by hand. I then had to use a pry bar to get the front driveshaft out of the yoke on the differential, I then slid the driveshaft over towards the engine to give me more clearance between the driveshaft and exhaust. This is the hole I used to get to the two rear bolts on the engine side. I used a the same combination for the front bolts on the rears as well.


9) Just a note about the order of the bolts, leave the top ones for last. I heard this from one of the videos and didn’t see why it would matter. It matters, the mount will try to lay back onto the frame if you take the tops out first.


10) You now have the mount loose and just have to get it out. I have to break the mount into pieces by removing the two 15mm bolts that hold the engine plate and heat shield to the frame mount. I then took the heat shield and engine plate out the top and wiggled the frame mount outthrough the wheel well.

 

[NGAneer]

Those are the easy ones. I dread the process below.

7) Now comes the fun park, getting to the engine-side bolts. FRONT BOLTS: I removed the front skid plate (four 15mm bolts) and set it aside. I could now almost it up in the engine bay between the motor and the fans. I tried using this as my access point for the front, engine-side bolts but it proved to be too much to keep a ratchet on the bolt. So I got out eh step stool and laid over the radiator support and loosened the bolts from the top by going down behind the alternator bracket, underneath the exhaust manifold. Once the bolts break loose you should be able to remove them by hand. These are 15mm bolts by the way. I ended up using a 15mm deep socket, 3”extension and a 3/8 drive ratchet to loosen them and the used a 15mm shallow socket at the 3” extension to remove them with my hand.


8) REAR BOLTS: Remove the straps from the front u-joint of the front drive shaft (four 13mm bolts IIRC). Make sure your truck is in 2WD so you can spin the driveshaft by hand. I then had to use a pry bar to get the front driveshaft out of the yoke on the differential, I then slid the driveshaft over towards the engine to give me more clearance between the driveshaft and exhaust. This is the hole I used to get to the two rear bolts on the engine side. I used a the same combination for the front bolts on the rears as well.


9) Just a note about the order of the bolts, leave the top ones for last. I heard this from one of the videos and didn’t see why it would matter. It matters, the mount will try to lay back onto the frame if you take the tops out first.


10) You now have the mount loose and just have to get it out. I have to break the mount into pieces by removing the two 15mm bolts that hold the engine plate and heat shield to the frame mount. I then took the heat shield and engine plate out the top and wiggled the frame mount outthrough the wheel well.

LOL. I get a kick out of hearing the stories from everyone the first time they do it. It's like a fraternity or, more accurately, a support group.

 

[swathdiver]

I hope mine never break! I'm not revving my motor to 4000 anymore!

 

[Kenny D]

LOL. I get a kick out of hearing the stories from everyone the first time they do it. It's like a fraternity or, more accurately, a support group.

LOL, my back, knees, arms, hands, and fingers hurt too much to even try and write a paragraph after swapping mine out.

 

[NGAneer]

LOL, my back, knees, arms, hands, and fingers hurt too much to even try and write a paragraph after swapping mine out.

Oh yeah, feel like you've been to the gym and then in a fight.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

I keep coming back here to see if someone has discovered a better motor mount, but continue to be disappointed. While I did find someone on one of the Truck forums fab up some solid mounts, I think that's a bit much on an otherwise stock vehicle.

So I guess I'll have to replace what we have with a factory replacement. I'm wondering if an engine torque damper would help the mounts live? Anyone try one? I'm looking at the Ingall's '04 GTO damper kit. Of course, one would have to modify the mounts, but the damper is the important part.

Thoughts?

 

[Mrae11]

Osidesurfer365,

We understand that you would like to resolve your vehicle issue at a third party company to save you money.

Regarding the cracked dash board concern, each case is unique and we do look at each case on a case by case bases. I cannot guarantee a different result regarding cost assistant but I would like to look into this concern for you. Could you please private message me you full name, address, phone number, VIN, and exact mileage. and preferred dealership?

Regards,

Jennifer T.
GM Customer Care

So I just returned from my mechanic after a routine oil change and he shows me I have a cracked drivers side motor mount!!!! WTF... I mean seriously GM? You would think they would install a strong enough motor mount for what people use these SUV's for. My mechanic ony works with GMC and Chevy's and he said he is noticing this often.

Has anyone else experienced this problem?

Oh and cause where it is located, not the cheapest of repairs either..

I have a 2008 GMC Yukon XL Denali with 69,774 miles on it. I have 1 broken motor mount, 1 cracked motor mount, a/c blower going out, cracked dashboard and door lock issues. Does anyone else have all these issues?

 

[Meccanoble]

I did mine this weekend and yes my body still aches in some places. Took me 4 hours and I hope to not have to replace again, atleast not until there is a better solution.

 

[NGAneer]

I have a 2008 GMC Yukon XL Denali with 69,774 miles on it. I have 1 broken motor mount, 1 cracked motor mount, a/c blower going out, cracked dashboard and door lock issues. Does anyone else have all these issues?

Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes

Not being a jerk but yes. At one point or another, I think there has been a complaint about all of these. Chief of which are motor mounts and cracks in the dash.