Broken Motor Mounts

[iLikeEggs]

It's like anything really. The only time we are disappointed is when we expect something.

 

[BlkDenaliXL]

We've had our 07 Denali for 3 months, and its always had the 'clunk' off the line. Always thought it was a suspension part or perhaps the AWD failing. But after reading this thread here and performing the 'brake test', its the driver's side motor mount. I will be replacing this myself - doesn't seem too bad a job. Looking at Rock Auto, they have 4 brands available - DEA, Anchor, Pioneer and AC Delco. I know some have said go with the OEM, and avoid Anchor and DEA. Has anyone installed the Pioneer mount? Any difference other than price?

 

[iLikeEggs]

Just had the dealer replace my drivers side. It was well worth avoiding the bloody knuckles. I'll probably do the passenger side when I get some free time and inclination.

 

[Sarge]

After doing my motor mounts all my driving "clunks" went away

 

[YukonCrazy]

Had my drive side mount replaced this week for $230 labor. Well worth it.

 

[Harrington Family]

We have a 2010 Yukon XL Denali with 106k. We were on our way home from Virginia to Ohio when our car starting shaking and knocking. Had to get a hotel room for the night in Maryland and rent a truck the next day to get home. Found out cylinders one and four had gone out and we have a broken motor mount. Thank goodness we purchased the extended warranty to cover the cylinders. They won't cover the $400 motor mount though. Contacted GM today and they called dealer. Basically said we are on our own and won't offer any assistance to us. So by the time we pay for the hotel room (times 2 after we pick up our vehicle), the fuel cost to get back and forth, the rental, and the motor mount we will be out around $800-$1000. Great way to treat a loyal GM customer.


On a side note, the dealership has been very helpful and great at communicating with us.

 

[wesalexleft]

Getting ready to do my driver's side this weekend. I wanted to find an engine support bar, but can't find a cheap one that will span the engine bay, so I suppose I'll jack the motor from below. Anyone got a good way to lift the driver's side of the motor from below without the oil pan? I hear of using a tab on the block, but haven't been underneath yet to find it...anyone got a picture, or how you lifted the driver's side while replacing the mount. I plan on replacing with the axle in place, by removing the steering column only if needed.

Thanks,

 

[Raymond Lee]

Osidesurfer365,

We understand that you would like to resolve your vehicle issue at a third party company to save you money.

Regarding the cracked dash board concern, each case is unique and we do look at each case on a case by case bases. I cannot guarantee a different result regarding cost assistant but I would like to look into this concern for you. Could you please private message me you full name, address, phone number, VIN, and exact mileage. and preferred dealership?

Regards,

Jennifer T.
GM Customer Care

Hello Jennifer

 

[wesalexleft]

I replaced the driver's side mount on my 2007 Denali this weekend. The local GMC dealer charged a friend of mine right at $900.00 all-in. The OEM mount was $94.00. It took me a leisurely 5 hours to replace. I removed the exhaust manifold heat shield, and steering column section from above, along with the mount-to-frame bolts. Then I removed the driver's front wheel, wheel well liner, ride height sensor, and ABS connector. I removed the mount to engine bolts last, then with a floor jack, and a 2 foot section of 1" square metal tubing, lifted the engine until the mount was clear. If you're getting ready for this, the 1" tubing went in from underneath between the frame, diff housing, and lifted at the block just in behind the power steering lines. Not too much weight at all, and I avoided the oil pan this way. After the new mount was in place, I threaded all bolts finger tight before lowering the motor. There was a little time spent to get the holes to line up, but nothing too bad. I seriously took my time on this, and included cleaning up and putting away the tools. With that, I still made about $160.00/hour doing it myself. The dealer should be ashamed for charging as much as they do with a lift, etc. They should easily make money at half the labor rate they offer.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

I'm kind of wondering if some sort of torque limiter would help reduce the mount failures we're seeing. Maybe a modified version of this:

https://www.ingallseng.com/93031-******-etd-2004_pontiac-gto.html
https://www.ingallseng.com/93031-******-etd-2004_pontiac-gto.html
Just a thought. I'm thinking I'm due for a motor mount replacement on our PPV.

 

[Christoph559]

I replaced the driver's side mount on my 2007 Denali this weekend. The local GMC dealer charged a friend of mine right at $900.00 all-in. The OEM mount was $94.00. It took me a leisurely 5 hours to replace. I removed the exhaust manifold heat shield, and steering column section from above, along with the mount-to-frame bolts. Then I removed the driver's front wheel, wheel well liner, ride height sensor, and ABS connector. I removed the mount to engine bolts last, then with a floor jack, and a 2 foot section of 1" square metal tubing, lifted the engine until the mount was clear. If you're getting ready for this, the 1" tubing went in from underneath between the frame, diff housing, and lifted at the block just in behind the power steering lines. Not too much weight at all, and I avoided the oil pan this way. After the new mount was in place, I threaded all bolts finger tight before lowering the motor. There was a little time spent to get the holes to line up, but nothing too bad. I seriously took my time on this, and included cleaning up and putting away the tools. With that, I still made about $160.00/hour doing it myself. The dealer should be ashamed for charging as much as they do with a lift, etc. They should easily make money at half the labor rate they offer.

Came looking just for this, I did not want to drop the front differential. Just got my mount in the mail this morning hopefully I'll be able to tackle this Thursday before a trip up to the lake with the boat. It gets annoying pulling from the line super slow with a 5,000lb boat

 

[Jazzbo]

Jennifer,

I have the exact same issues as osidesurfer365. I just found out my motor mount is broken and the dealership said it would be $530 plus tax. I also have the notorious cracked dashboard in my Tahoe. What can you do to help me with these issues?

Thanks

I.just replaced the motor mounts on my 2007 yukon xl 4x4. Never driven offroad and the mounts go bad lol. Government Motors sucks. Oh yea. Dash cracked scam by GM too. 2 starters. 2 master cylinder. Tranny went out. Customer service is horrible. AAA and my mechanic love me. Never buying Government motor cars again

 

[Christoph559]

Well just got done it took 5 hours with a buddy, 45 of which we couldn't find a bolt for the motor mount to engine. We had to drop the differential no way of getting the top bolts to the engine mount. It took 30 minutes to line up the holes for the mount, we should have mounted the mount to the block first so we back tracked. Wish i would have had an axle to put on my drivers side. That's the next project new struts and driver axle

 

[Gary14940]

I just found out that the motor mounts for my 2007 Tahoe are broken also. This should be a recall item from GM as they know this is a recurring issue with their vehicles. My vehicle has only been street driven, no off road, and for motor mounts to break is obviously a flaw in engineering. I have less than 75,000 miles on my vehicle. My local repair shop wants over $900.00 to replace them. I think GM should either provide a recall for its customers or at least offer to have a GM dealer fix it at cost. This should not be left to the customer to fix a repetitive issue with the GM vehicle. GM, where are you????

 

[iamdub]

What I wanna know is what are you people that have performance mods doing about motor mounts? Those that are boosted or just have bolt-ons or even just a tune (especially with torque management reduced or removed) have GOT to be breaking mounts. The mounts fail quickly under normal use and I know you don't do performance mods just to baby it all the time.

 

[ALVTAHOE]

I've had 2 motor mounts replaced with in the last 2 years. Just driven on the street daily by my wife.

 

[Ramncum]

Are the exhaust bolts breaking bc of the motor mounts, I have a flange leak below driver side header

 

[Ramncum]

Are the motor mounts causing the exhausting issue, i have a flange leak right below the driver header

 

[MichaelSE]

Can someone post a picture of a broken motor mount so I know what I'm looking for next time I crawl up under the truck? All these reports of broken ones have me worried.

Edit: I did the truck in gear, foot on the brake, hit the gas test as suggested earlier in this thread and filmed it. Is this an acceptable level of movement? Watch the whole video cause I punch it harder at the end. I still plan to take a look under the truck this weekend.

 

[iamdub]

Can someone post a picture of a broken motor mount so I know what I'm looking for next time I crawl up under the truck? All these reports of broken ones have me worried.

Edit: I did the truck in gear, foot on the brake, hit the gas test as suggested earlier in this thread and filmed it. Is this an acceptable level of movement? Watch the whole video cause I punch it harder at the end. I still plan to take a look under the truck this weekend.

I'd say that yours is not broken yet. You would feel it. The motor would jump up and bump to a halt when the hard parts of the mount suddenly limit it from moving, then it would slam back down causing another felt bump when you got off the throttle.