Brakes. WTF am I not doing / doing wrong?

[exp500]

OP has been fighting Chineezeeium parts I think. His master/wheel cylinder sizes are within usable ranges. I've been following/suggesting for a couple months, Something isn't right and he hasn't found it. Hell, could be brake shoes in wrong positions. I'm not there.
As I suggested above- doing something the same way multiple times and expecting different results........

 

[96-2D-Hoe]

I think part of the problem was that I expected to be able to get a decent pedal. I've followed service guidelines and haven't got one. But I'm far from the only person who has shit brake pedal/brakes in these trucks. It's a fairly common problem and I think most people end up settling. I didn't want to settle.

The Duralast MC's from autozone are junk, and using the Motive did not help matters damaging 2 MC's.

The Delco I just installed came without blanking plugs that were mentioned in the instructions. I used a couple I had left over to bench bleed it. It acted very differently than any other I have had. I was also getting reoccurring bubbles while bleeding the Delco same as I got with one from AZ that I returned. If I was more gentle with it I didn't get them. I did the bench bleed overnight in my kitchen and didn't rush it. I suspect this Delco MC may not be 100%. I put it in anyway and hoped for the best.

Now I need a brake booster. I could possibly maneuver the MC out of the way but I'll probably just remove it and check it again with a bench bleed.

I also buy brake fluid by the gallon and I've used 4 so far.

I pump the pedal as outlined in the service guidlines pump and wait 10-15 seconds.

I'm way more sick of this issue than any of you I can assure you.

Right now I need to buy the brake booster and get that done. I'm not sure I will continue my 'quest' for the perfect brake pedal but who knows. I was hoping I could get it back to how it was when I bought it but I obviously haven't achieved that yet.

Thanks for all of your suggestions and advice.

 

[exp500]

You may never get a perfect pedal with these- maybe 1/2 inch lower than it should be, But it better be a firm pedal. The only way to drastically improve the pedal is to install the largest diameter master you can find- somewhere in the 1-5/16- 1-3/8 dia range. that short strokes pedal( I think you are close to this now) . Next is wheel cylinders- somewhere in the 7/8-1-1/16 size... but then the proportioning valve is probably wrong and rears lock before fronts( I like adjustable proportioning valves). ABS confounds this whole scenario, as it is calibrated to a small range of master sizes. Larger master increases amount of foot pressure required- thats why everyboby tries the hydroboost brakes because if you need more brakes raise the pump pressure. It's a great system if maintained.

 

[OR VietVet]

Personally I think since you know you need a booster you need to do that and make sure all air is out and make doubly sure any adjustments are correct and see where it goes from there. The booster alone effects pedal feel.

 

[iamdub]

Maybe I missed it, but have you replaced the flex hoses? I'd imagine the brakes in my '02 S10 to be very similar to the C/K trucks of this generation. I first converted the rear to discs and that made a notable improvement in the pedal response. Then I replaced all the hoses with braided stainless and that made a huge improvement over that. Then, I swapped on a Blazer MC for even more improvement. The crown jewel was when I swapped to hydraboost. There was no wasted travel in the pedal and it was solid when you stood on it.

 

[96-2D-Hoe]

Maybe I missed it, but have you replaced the flex hoses? I'd imagine the brakes in my '02 S10 to be very similar to the C/K trucks of this generation. I first converted the rear to discs and that made a notable improvement in the pedal response. Then I replaced all the hoses with braided stainless and that made a huge improvement over that. Then, I swapped on a Blazer MC for even more improvement. The crown jewel was when I swapped to hydraboost. There was no wasted travel in the pedal and it was solid when you stood on it.

I haven't replaced them, but they all look ok. Definitely something I should probably do to rule it out.

If I had known I would need a brake booster I would have seriously considered going to hydroboost. I knew I needed a MC and the PS pump wasn't so hot. I did look but that shit is expensive and it put me off. Money has gotten a bit tighter as business has slowed. I was hoping to be spending on my drivers seat foam and leather at this point. That might have to wait until next year now as I've pretty much depleted my yearly truck budget.

 

[OR VietVet]

Those flex hoses can look great on the outside but be a ************* on the inside.

Plus the brake fluid temp can make the difference as to why is ok one minute and not ok the next.

 

[96-2D-Hoe]

AFAIK there's only two short pieces at the front calipers. About 18" each. IIRC the rear is all hard line. Unless there's a hose in the middle of the truck somewhere?

 

[east302]

There’s the soft line at the rear axle.

I’d still run the shoes out a smidge.

 

[96-2D-Hoe]

I just got under it and looked. I'd forgotten that I do have that short piece at the back. But all 3 hoses are solid with no signs of perishing whatsoever. Truck has always lived under cover or in a garage.

Shoes are adjusted, footbrake is right at the top.

I did have a slight issue the last time I tried to bleed it. I'd broken my previous glass jar and forgot to put a breather hole in the lid of the new one which didn't help. But I ran out of my 4th gallon of fluid and haven't bought any more. I also figured I'd probably have to remove the MC for the booster install and will be starting all over again in a few days so there was no point.

Pedal travel isn't too bad but it's not firm as it should be. I actually took video a few different times while pressing the brake pedal so I could see if I was getting anywhere. Travel improved every time.

It's all fun and games over here.