Goodinblack
I Like Tacos
I bought mine for the nbs rear sub in the back back. It is 2 ohm.
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Bose speakers ???
- Thread starter kbuskill
- Start date
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kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
My bad.... I was thinking it was under the console.
Meccanoble
Full Access Member
Are these subs similar between generations? Can anyone confirm nnbs is also 2 ohm? I received some metrics confirming its most likely a dual ohm on the nnbs because they are showing double wiring as if there are 2 subs in the nnbs and I'm pretty sure there is only 1. Nissan Murano has 2 small 8" subs.
Meccanoble
Full Access Member
So far, I seen the stock sub, doing more digging but this guy has a pic of the sub enclosure out. Wow you can definitely fit a lot if you take that out. I would assume thats a good 14"-18" easily available with the stock setup removed.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...ion/124553-replacing-weak-bose-subwoofer.html
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...ion/124553-replacing-weak-bose-subwoofer.html
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kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
Ok so just to add some more info for future reference...
The factory A-pillar tweeters are not Bose specific. They use the same tweeter in the non Bose trucks as well and there is no ohm rating printed on them.
Bose front door speakers are 1.9 ohm
Bose rear door speakers are 3.6 ohm
Bose D-pillar (3.5") speakers are 12.5 ohm for the non-LUX system and 3.25 ohm for LUX Bose system.
Bose Premium amp (non LUX) is 6 channel... 9 speakers...
2 tweets in A-pillar
2 front door
2 rear door
2 D-pillar
1 dual voice coil Sub under console.
A-pillar tweets and front doors wired parallel... not sure of total ohms since tweeters aren't marked.
Rear doors and D-pillar speakers wired parallel so 3.6 ohm door parallel with 12.5 ohm D-pillar = 2.7950310559 or 2.8 ohms at the amp on rear channels and probably 3 ohms by the time you figure in the wiring. I would have to assume the front channels probably run the same ohms.
LUX AMP has an additional speaker in the center of the dash making it a 10 speaker system.
The factory A-pillar tweeters are not Bose specific. They use the same tweeter in the non Bose trucks as well and there is no ohm rating printed on them.
Bose front door speakers are 1.9 ohm
Bose rear door speakers are 3.6 ohm
Bose D-pillar (3.5") speakers are 12.5 ohm for the non-LUX system and 3.25 ohm for LUX Bose system.
Bose Premium amp (non LUX) is 6 channel... 9 speakers...
2 tweets in A-pillar
2 front door
2 rear door
2 D-pillar
1 dual voice coil Sub under console.
A-pillar tweets and front doors wired parallel... not sure of total ohms since tweeters aren't marked.
Rear doors and D-pillar speakers wired parallel so 3.6 ohm door parallel with 12.5 ohm D-pillar = 2.7950310559 or 2.8 ohms at the amp on rear channels and probably 3 ohms by the time you figure in the wiring. I would have to assume the front channels probably run the same ohms.
LUX AMP has an additional speaker in the center of the dash making it a 10 speaker system.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Great work Ken! It is my understanding that the speakers are the same for the non-Lux and Lux systems; is that so?
The non-Lux amp is dumb while the Lux amp is its own module that can be seen and worked on by the Tech2.
The non-Lux amp is dumb while the Lux amp is its own module that can be seen and worked on by the Tech2.
Interesting; I never thought about that before I had a Tech 2 but you're correct, it should be. I'm running what I call a "hybrid" Lux system. I have JBL component speakers in the doors, factory tweeters and D pillar speakers running off the Lux amp, a JL 10" sub in an MTX Thunderform enclosure in the rear driver side panel area running off a Soundstream Nano amp. My HU is a Sony DD. It sounds really good.
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kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
All the speakers are the same EXCEPT the D-pillar speakers as noted above... 12.5 ohm non LUX and 3.25 ohm for LUX.
Mine doesn't have a center dash speaker. I've had my dash torn apart so I'm sure. Any idea what size the d pillar speakers are? I heard they're not a standard size.
Meccanoble
Full Access Member
Thanks for confirming dual voice coil for sub. Can anyone confirm the ohms? Dual 2, dual 4? That 3.5 in the D Pillar looks to be a midrange as I never heard of a tweeter being that big.
I guess the big debate is if the rear should just be upgraded coaxials or a component set where 3.5 is replaced with a normal tweeter. Never seen a component set with just those 2 sizes.
I guess the big debate is if the rear should just be upgraded coaxials or a component set where 3.5 is replaced with a normal tweeter. Never seen a component set with just those 2 sizes.
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kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
I believe 3.5".
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kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
My guess would be dual 2 ohm which would match pretty close to the other channels on the amp but they are not parallel since they each have there own channel.
This is just my best guess though.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Ken, would the wiring diagrams from the manual reveal how they are hooked up?
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kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
Are saying how the speakers are wired?
If so, YES it would but I have already verified that the front door and A-pillar tweeters are wired parallel off the amps 2 front channels.
The rear door and D-pillar speakers are wired parallel off the amps 2 rear channels and the other 2 channels go to the 2 voice coils on the sub.
It shows the door speaker wiring in my Chiltons manual.
Meccanoble
Full Access Member
so its almost like 2 sets of components?
Question, you think with less speakers running off the stock amp, the remaining speakers will sound better? For example, when people do these power tests on amps, the comments make complaints that they arent the true power because when all channels are used, their performance decreases or similar to this idea. When we setup sub or front speakers on the head unit or seperate amp, does that allow the remaining speakers to I guess get more power and perform better?
Question, you think with less speakers running off the stock amp, the remaining speakers will sound better? For example, when people do these power tests on amps, the comments make complaints that they arent the true power because when all channels are used, their performance decreases or similar to this idea. When we setup sub or front speakers on the head unit or seperate amp, does that allow the remaining speakers to I guess get more power and perform better?
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kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
Exactly... it is two sets of components from the factory. The only difference is instead of running a crossover between the mid bass and tweeters, they run a capacitor to accomplish the same thing.
The only problem with swapping everything for components is trying to keep the ohms matched to the amp.
You want to keep the total resistance that each channel sees as close as possible to what it's designed for. Less resistance will have the effect of more power to each speaker but the stock amp is rated for a certain power output level without distorting. In other words, it's only going to make so much sound without sounding like crap. You just wouldn't be able to turn the volume control up very far before it starts distorting. Factory amps can only be hooked up one way, so the power output to each channel is fixed. Aftermarket amps can be wired in different configurations so their power can be divided up differently, like they can run 100 watts x 4 channels if wired for 4 channels or 200 watts x 2 channels if wired for 2 channels. Also, the aftermarket amps are more lenient when it comes to the load each channel can use; they can sometimes run on 2 ohms or 4 ohms without distortion however they have gain adjustments to compensate where factory amps have no adjustment.
How much insulation did you end up using, and how much do you think it would take to do the entire floor, doors, and inside panels? Asking for myself.
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kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
I'm sorry... I really don't know the answer to any of these questions. I got the sound deadener from my brother so I didn't order it to know how much was there and I didn't measure it because I didn't care... I also haven't done the floors or anything else so I really can't be of any help there.... I am such a failure... lol
Meccanoble
Full Access Member
If it helps with that question, I bought some Noico 80 mil from amazon and the 18 sq ft was way more than enough to do the front 2 doors including covering the area behind speaker. If I wanted to, it could be stretched to 4 doors if I only focused on primary areas. The door can cover the entire side of floor related to its location so I would imagine 90-100 sq feet would be enough for all doors and floor. Roof and tail gate would be another story.
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