Bose amp bypass?

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jhacker5150

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Does anyone know what the Wire Codes going into the BOSE amp in 05' Denali?
And Yes I know this is Low Level Input.

---------- Post added at 02:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:14 PM ----------

I am not planning on Replacing Factory IN-Dash/ Nav. Unit. Just want to add a seperate controller, and add my Tablet into the MIX for Entertainment Functionality.

This may be what you are looking for:

http://crutchfield.custhelp.com/app...sion/L3RpbWUvMTM2NjQyMzk1Ni9zaWQva00zQ1c4b2w=

The top half of the page is I believe the "input" to the Bose; the bottom half is the "output." Hope this helps.

P.S. I have a 06 Tahoe with Bose and while Crutchfield identified the wire colors correctly, they didn't have the corresponding pin numbers correct all the time. Going by color alone worked for what I was aiming for thankfully.
 

livingez_123

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I really like my Bose System but think better speakers might sound better in the doors. I don't crank it till my ears bleed. what is a good replacement for the OEM speakers?

Sorry to Hijack your thread.
 

jhacker5150

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Replace both the Bose speakers and Bose amplifier. The stock Bose speakers (and amp) have oddball proprietary specs such as resistances for example. If you're seeking a better sound, replace it all. Mixing and matching OEM and aftermarket will just create more frustration than the Bose already presents haha.
 

Fawaz_420

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2013 Yukon Denali Stock Bose System Upgrade Issue !!!

Hello,

I am a new member of the GMC/Tahoe Family desperately looking for a solution. I recently bought a 2013 Yukon Denali (in Dubai) with a Stock Bose Sound System.

The Stock Bose System has good sound quality but lacks that Low End Power which makes it irritating at anything above 50% volume. You just get more of Mid-Range and High-End but no additional Bass.

In order to resolve the issue, I took the following approach :

- Rockford Fosgate R300 Active Sub-Woofer Enclose with Built-In Amplifier (300 Watts RMS).
- Rockford Fosgate Hi-Low Converter + Complete Rockford Fosgate (AMP + Speaker) 4 AWG Wiring Kit.

In order to get the high end output from the speaker, I connected the Hi-Low Converter to the Front Right Door Speaker Signal (Located in the right side of dash) and then ran the RCA (Low Output) from the Hi-Low Converter to the AMP in the back. For the Power, I connected the 4 AWG Power Wire to the Terminal on the Fuse Box (Coming directly from the battery) as the Power wire was not long enough to run all the way to the back of the Truck.

After completing the installation, I tested the system although it was playing the music, I could immediately notice there was considerable engine noise from the woofer between (1000 - 2000 RPM) so much so that it was giving me a headache. The noise / rumble continued even when the head unit was off (No music). In order to rectify the situation, I decided to use the signal from the Front Right Bose Pillar Tweeter Wiring instead of the Front Right Door Speaker. Problem still persists.

Tried changing the speaker wire but it makes no difference. I then removed the Hi-Low converter and directly connected the speaker signal to the AMP input. The rumble noise increased. This means that the problem is with the signal itself which is coming from the Stock Bose AMP.The installation was done by yellow Hat Dubai (Very professional) who are the market leaders here in terms of quality sound system installation. All of the wiring has been done properly and tucked in. I ensured that the power and RCA ran independently & in parallel (Power on the left / driver side & RCA on the right side of the vehicle).

One additional point worth noting : The problem goes away if any of the doors / tail gate are open. I have tested it thoroughly whilst keeping my foot on the gas to achieve 1500 RPM. As soon as I shut the door the woofer starts rumbling like crazy. If I open the door again (Maintaining the 1500 RPM), the rumble disappears.

The Yellow Hat (Installers) guys say that I should try installing a "Helix Noise Suppressor" which is basically a capacitor connected the alternator which in turn is connected to the battery terminal. They are not sure about this and have asked me to purchase and bring it so they can try. This "Noise Suppressor" costs $ 100 and there are no guarantees. I do not mind spending the money but I will have to cut the factory alternator wiring which connects to the battery terminal and I would hate to do that as it would mean no more factory warranty.

Right now, I've just removed the RCA inputs to the sub-woofer as the noise is intolerable and makes it a pain to drive the vehicle.

Would deeply appreciate it if someone could help me with this.

I've spent good money to ensure I bought quality products but this problem has just taken away the fun from the sound system.
 

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