Bose AMP and GM RAP bypass

Discussion in 'Audio & Electronics' started by asand, May 21, 2019.

  1. asand

    asand Member

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    I bought my truck with a pioneer headunit running into the Bose amp and it was working great, albeit with a ground loop whine. Recently the stereo started staying on after the truck was shut off and doors opened, although there was no sound output.

    Now when the truck is running there is now output to the rear speakers at all. I would like to replace the Bose equipment with new speakers directly wired the the HU with no amps.

    If anyone could help me with speaker sizes and locations I would appreciate it. If there is a dedicated sub I would consider a single amp for that.

    Bang for the buck decent budget speaker recommendations would be great too.
     
  2. adriver

    adriver Full Access Member

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    For speaker size and options:
    Crutchfield.com

    For subwoofer:
    If you are putting in a new head unit, and speakers, just get rid of the BOSE completely. If you are sending anything more than 50watts to your new speakers, you should use new wire. If you are close to that, and willing to spend the little bit of money, and a bit of time, then it won't hurt.

    https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/subwoofer-options-without-losing-cargo-space-swb.107846/


    If you had a ground loop whine from the start, and then later your head unit was staying on when it wasn't before; My first thought it is your accessory wire is staying hot. Your wiring might be complete crap, and either frayed somewhere, or came loose. There are other possibilities like your door switch has gone bad. Do your windows do the same thing too? Does it stay on when you open every door?


    As for speakers, to give any honest recommendations we would need to know:
    What is your budget?
    What do you have so far in your system?
    What do you want out of your system/ end goal/ dream system?
     
  3. asand

    asand Member

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    @adriver
    Head unit is Pioneer AVH-P3100DVD with the Bose adapter box. I agree with the acc wire shorting to memory wire or something, but everything looks really clean and professional.

    Windows and courtesy lights work as intended.

    I intend to buy 4 door speaker and run my own wire.
     
  4. adriver

    adriver Full Access Member

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    That head unit runs 22w RMS & 50W max per channel. You either need an amp if you want it loud, or get rid of the amp and just low wattage speakers. If you're not using an amp (not the bose), you don't need to run new wire for that head unit. For speakers I would still say crutchfield. You should be able to get 4 speakers for less than $100 in that power range.
     
  5. asand

    asand Member

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    Last edited: May 22, 2019
  6. asand

    asand Member

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    Just finished at 2AM because when better to work on a car stereo than after getting off swing shift 8-P. What Id did was ran the switched 12v+, constant 12v+, and light control wire to the MBEC Junction box under the das near the parking brake.
    IMG_20190523_224951[1].jpg

    I cut all the wires from the vehicle harness adapter minus the speaker leads, and soldered the harness adapter to the Pioneer pigtail.
    Then I unplugged the harness from the Blows Amplifier and started cutting wires. I'm sorry didn't take any photos, but I soldered the preamp speaers wires directly to the speaker wires, so I did not need to run any new wire. The wires are all in twisted pairs so its really easy to identify them all.

    Small leads______Large Leads
    LF Tan+________Tan+
    Green -______Gray-

    RF Green+______Lt Green+
    Orange-______Dk Green-

    LR Brown+_____Brown+
    Turqoise-____Yellow

    RR Blue+______Dk Blue+
    Black-______Lt Blue-

    I still have the 2ohm Blows speakers and it sounds great with all 4 speakers working on the correct channels.

    Now there are no door chimes, and no RAP function which suits me fine.
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2019

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