Discussion in 'Street Suspension' started by Dearmosd, Sep 8, 2020.
Sorry I misread your rey the first time
Okay, So I tried a different spring and I still hear some noises but its a fraction of what I heard before.
Question: Would the Auto leveling shocks be the cause of the noise if the springs were softer then the shocks were made for. It sounds is like air fluttering (soft hissing) when the axle bounces. I know people are going to say the check the shocks to make sure they are not busted but if they were you would think you would hear the same noise with the stock springs. Also you would think you hear the compressor running all the time which I do not hear. Pending sensor levels the compressor kicks on for less than 10sec when vehicle starts.
Could the stock auto leveling shocks not really compatible performance wise with a softer spring than original stock spring stiffness?
You can hear this hissing inside with the windows up? You do have both your top and bottom isolators in place, right?
How does it sit- not low enough? Too low? Just right?
It's obviously a softer ride- is it too soft? Does it feel too "squishy" when hitting large dips, like does it compress too much when you hit a big dip or hump?
-I cannot hear the noise in the cabin while the windows are up
-I do have the upper/lower isolators in place, I will double check the upper isolators are in proper place
-I think it sits damn near level with the Beltech spindle drops up front. I dont hear my compressors kick in when I start the car. From bottom of rim to fender is 32" on one side, 31 3/4" on other side ( i can adjust that on the sensor rod length)
-I feel I would like to raise the rear maybe an 1" but no more, maybe a little less than an inch (after rod adjustment I probably wont need the 1" spacer I have left over from Beltech kit)
-Ride quality is very acceptable, I would like a slightly stiffer ride, very slight "squishier" feel then I would like.
-When I hit large bumps/hunps I feel it does bottom out. There is only a visual 2-3" gap from bump stop to trailing arm when parked.
If you would like to raise it a little more AND firm it up some, you're golden. Both of these will occur by adjusting the links to get the compressor to air it up.
Firming and lifting it up will help with the bottoming out. But, have you done the free travel mod? If it still bottoms out on large bumps, the free travel mod will resolve this.
Get the links set to put the rear right where you want it and you should have it nailed. As far as the sound, was it there before or with the stock springs you had in just before you put the drop springs in? It may be normal and you just never noticed it cuz you weren't listening for any sounds. I'd try to listen to mine, but my exhaust is too loud so I'd never hear anything anyway.
I will be playing with the rods hopefully today and get the height right and hope the extra firmness follows.
Before installing these spring I did out the stock springs back in and the noise was not present which now made me think that the auto leveling shocks don't like the rapid movement with weaker springs since the stiffer springs wouldn't allow as much quick movement over bumps of larger size.
Everything I do to it changes the noise so I just need to keep playing and find the right combo
I will play with the sensor rods tonight but I noticed that McGaughy website recommends the 33062 spring labeled "heavy duty/air shocks" and I currently am running the 33052 labeled "Light duty factory rear shocks" which could be the difference in spring rate that might aid in my shocks not liking the softer springs.
I will have to play with the current setup and see how much tuning i can do with the sensor rods and spacers I have.
I adjusted sensor rods and added easily 5/8" height and the ride was stiffer (as expected) but the sound was worse, I just dont understand where I can find the sweet spot of adjustments.
I guess any suggestions on to try McGaughy 33062 or Max Trac 201630
The factory springs for those equipped with ALC ("air shocks") are softer than those without ALC. So, I'd expect the McG springs for the "air shocks" to be similar. This sound you're getting is baffling me.
I'm wondering if you unbolted the bottoms of the shocks and let them hang, then jumped on the bumper to cycle the suspension, if it would make the sound. This would at least isolate the cause from the shocks or all the other possibilities in the suspension.
Roast me if you want but yesterday I added a 1" spacer to the McGaughy 30052 springs and shortened the rods as small as I could with the rods I have. The overall height from lower rim to fender was 32.5" (think that's my desired height), drove it around and noise was horrible again. I could bounce on my rear bumper and replicate the noise so I too my phone stuck it under my car while I bounced on the bumper and recorded a video to track down the sound.
The sound wasn't coming from axle area.......it seems to be around my emergency brake cables near driver side rear door.
I manually tugged on the cables specifically around the frame rail behind the passenger door and holy $hit i could replicate the sound.....
I zip tied the cables in a couple places (I had to leave town and could stay and play) but the noise is nearly gone.
I bet when I get home and trace the e-brake more closely I can secure any cable that is loose or rubbing other cables or frame.
I can only imagine that my last adjustments kinked the cable worse and directed me to specific area where the e-brake connects to the frame rail rear the rear door.
I feel like a total idiot but I manually played with cables near axle with little to no sound but not any more forward.
I did a search on yukon/Tahoe/suburban e-brake noise and found lots of complaints and even a service bulletin.
I bet the various angles I put my axle at made the rubbing better or worse and with the axle bouncing made the cable rub and that's what I was hearing but I have bounced on my rear bumper before and didn't hear what I heard like I did yesterday.
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