AFM Disable Options

[iamdub]

Not sure how this works on your year machine, but in your situation I'd pull the dongle, run the machine in low range shifted up to 5th gear to keep it in V8 mode. Run it like this for a couple weeks before the testing. I'd have to hang a note on the dash to remind me to do this, maybe forget one time and - big trouble.

'07 Tahoe, so it has the 4L60E. He'd have to keep it in third and drive a little slower for a while. Even still, driving in OD (4th) might be one of the requirements for completing a drive cycle(s).

 

[iamdub]

I'm in a pickle and need some suggestions for my '07 5.3 Tahoe.

TLDR: I need a way to disable the AFM that doesn't involve the OBDII dongle, mailing off the ECM, or doing a full mechanical delete, and cost is a major factor...

The full story:

I have SMOG coming up in 2 months. I've been running an AFM OBDII disable dongle since it cost me an engine at 200k. Last time I went through SMOG I discovered that in order to disable the AFM through external command, the dongle basically constantly erases the OBDII codes that popup as a result. That puts the ECM in a state where it is not "ready" for SMOG.

Because of this, since all they do in AZ is confirm the OBDII is "ready" and has no active fault codes, I have to remove the dongle, run through the initialization drive proceedure, then after SMOG, put the dongle back on. Simple enough, right? Nope. LOL.

A couple months ago, in a moment of desperation after my 3rd mesh filter on the oil pressure sender in a very short period, with a good ol' lack of executive function at play, I pulled the stupid mesh out and left it out.

So I am now in a position where if the AFM were to engage, I can almost guarantee the lifter(s) will jam closed, which means the "normal" SMOG proceedure will cost me a top end.

So I need a way to disable the AFM without the dongle.

Things that are unfortunately NOT an option due to financial reasons, available time, and this being our only vehicle, include: full mechanical delete of the AFM system, sending the ECM out to have it disabled off site, or fancy tuners upwards of $500 or more.

I have tried searching Google and this forum, but my eyes keep glassing over with all the contradictory info and folks who have their favorite method (usually mailing in the ECM or doing the full mechanical delete) and simply will not allow other options to be discussed.

So, bearing all that in mind, with the non-starters disclosed up front, what options do I have to kill the AFM?

I had a local speed shop disable AFM and a few other "click on/click off" changes (no actual tuning) for $150. The credits, alone, were $100 (2x$50). So I basically paid them $50 for their labor. Sure, they probably have/had an unlimited credit account with HPT. But, the same would apply if you found any Joe Schmo around you with HPT. I'd suggest hitting up Facebook Marketplace or even other car forums to find a local individual. They don't need to be an expert tuner. They just need to have HPT and know how to buy some credits and write to your PCM.

 

[B-train]

Ok, so this is gonna sound stupid, but I is what I is ... can someone provide a link or specific model for the appropriate HP tuner? I'm getting a lot of noise trying to find it to figure out the baseline cost...

MVI3 from HP TUNERS site. You will probably need 2 credits. Cost to your door will be about $500. Download MVI Suite from their site free to your computer.

One arrived, plug in MVI3 to computer after downloading and installing software. Go to the help menu and do a resync device (don't have it in front of me, so names may be slightly off at the moment). It will activate everything and load the number of credits you bought onto it.

You can pull off the ECM info and use the MVI3 as a scanner to your vehicle w/o using any credits if you want to see how it works beforehand. The credits will be needed to program any changes you made back to the ECM.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Like everyone's said above, or just about any decent handheld tuning device should be able to disable it. Find a used, un-married one if you want to save money.

I have a DiabloSport Intune I3 which I use on both the 2012 Yukon and the 2002 Mustang by just purchasing a separate license. They're about $350 new.

Also, The BTDieselworks Autosync can disable AFM through the setup using the DIC screen, along with giving you many other features. This is a dongle that stays plugged in, but using their OBD splitter it can stay tucked up under the dash and the other OBD port secures to the stock OBD bracket and looks OE.

Autosync is $295 and the splitter cable is $23

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