'99 Tahoe - Expedition Build!

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sparg93

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I'm not normally a fan of the Mickey Thompson Classic II's, but I am really digging them on your truck.:boti:

Thanks!

I actually have the nicer center caps in a box...their going on after the expedition as these are definitely going to get scratched. The ones they send with the rims, IMO, are not that nice looking. They look like big hunks of metal...the optional ones you can buy have a nice black center and dont look so big.

When i put 35's on this rig, I think it will be an amazing combo! (but with gas @ $4/g, 33's will have to do)
 

bowtiefreak

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How did I miss this thread???? Nice work. I don't even want to ask but I will, any estimate as to the amount into it?

Again, nice work!
 
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sparg93

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How did I miss this thread???? Nice work. I don't even want to ask but I will, any estimate as to the amount into it?

Again, nice work!

Enough $$ that I could another 4wheelin toy :Plugged:

On a positive note, I now know what every single bolt and hose on this truck does :)

For me, one of the goals of the build was to replace aging parts and concentrate on areas that I felt needed an upgrade over OEM. One upgrade I knew I needed was to throw out the G80 b/c it was worn down...rather then stick with the 10 bolt (which is actually quite stout), I decided to try this big 14 bolt. I'm easy on the throttle (even when climbing) so I have a feeling the 10bolt would have been adequate, but when I found a 14bolt for $350, I figured the extra strength certainly couldn't hurt....but then I had the entire thing rebuilt from the ground up b/c the thought of a seal possibly leaking 1k miles from home sounded painful!

Also, after all the abuse, I'm hoping to come back with some real world experience for what mods are good/crap etc...versus the "forum opinion".

I've heard from a few guys that tow fees for some of the farther distances I'm going can be as high as $2k just to the "local" auto shop...knowing that makes some of the more expensive mods a little extra insurance.

---------- Post added at 12:16 AM ---------- Previous post was Yesterday at 11:43 PM ----------

i finally was able to upload some more progress photos...so here we go!!

Can anyone guess what may go in here? (i cut and grinded the heck out of it...came out pretty clean IMO)
IMG_8565.jpg


On to the venerable 14 bolt and Alcan springs.

If you are going to replace your springs, plan on dropping your tank. I decided in my infinite wisdom that if I cut all the old bolts, it would piece of cake...wrong!

There is one bolt that butts up against the gas tank that once you cut the head off, it falls in between the frame and gas tank. The head of the bolt is bigger then the opening in the frame, so you can't simply grab a magnet and pull it out...also, these are grade 8 bolts, so unless you want to spend hours with a Sawzall, grab a grinder and go to town

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- 10bolt stripped and ready to come out
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- got it out nice and easy! I had new ubolts, so this part was actually pretty simple

This is where it gets painful...spring removal...it took me over a day to get these out b/c I didn't drop the tank and had to run to home depot twice for bigger cutting blades
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- i did this at about 11p when I saw it was going to take hours of squirming to cut the bolt

New springs in - really easy - I installed with the head of bolt facing out
IMG_8577.jpg


14 bolt in - POR'd it and with that ridiculous thick BlueFab diff cover, this thing is beefy
IMG_8583.jpg


The RCX shocks are in the rear (white in the photo) as I wait for a bracket for my rear 5150's...sadly, the front 5150's are no valved heavy enough for this truck, so i'm ordering 5100's tonight

The driveshaft is also in, tomorrow is some buttoning up and then I go to pick up my new rear bumper!
 

noJeepshere

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Can anyone guess what may go in here? (i cut and grinded the heck out of it...came out pretty clean IMO)
IMG_8565.jpg

In mine it's going to be a metal box that folds out to reveal a ham radio and 110w power inverter. Nice to know the jack mount comes out so clean.
 
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sparg93

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The venerable 14bolt is in and so far so good!! I only ran the truck on jack stands, but tomorrow it's road tested.

IMG_8585.jpg


The 14bsf mod is a piece of cake if you are retaining the stock springs...but i definitely was slowed down by mine.

This thing looks awesome under the truck! I POR'd it (dont mind the spots i missed) and it looks really clean under the truck.

I also painted the drums and any visible rust on the frame... (this photo was taken before I touched up all the rust)

---------- Post added at 11:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:22 PM ----------

In mine it's going to be a metal box that folds out to reveal a ham radio and 110w power inverter. Nice to know the jack mount comes out so clean.

This mod I'm actually pretty excited about and recommend to folks that if they wheel, copy this!

IMG_8580.jpg

IMG_8581-1.jpg


This is my 100% Cycle Duty VIAIR 450H. If you want to run a tank, they make a pump with an auto shutoff...the "H" is not designed for use with tanks, but with a little ingenuity, it easily could.

We essentially purchased two brackets from Home Depot and with self taping screws, drilled into the body. To reduce vibration when this thing is on, rubber sealing material (roofers use it - see the shiny material on the fender), was placed on parts that have metal to metal contact. You will also see there are rubber grommets on the screws that mount the pump to the black mounting plate.

I also purchased the mounting bracket specifically for this pump and it made installation a piece of cake. You can tug on the pump and it doesn't budge.

From a wiring perspective, this will be wired directly to a relayed switch in our center console. The air line will run from the pump to a quick disconnect that will be mounted on the custom rear bumper.

Also, b/c this rig will go through water, I siliconed the heck out of the parts of the screws that went through the metal interior to the outside.
 
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the big blue bus

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oba looks bad ass. i took my jack out as well and just throw extra stuff in there. are you planning on putting thr cover piece back on? i never thought of putting it there will be stealing this idea for sure and had same thought of bumper fill valve. may put a tank where the spare tire used to be
 
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sparg93

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oba looks bad ass. i took my jack out as well and just throw extra stuff in there. are you planning on putting thr cover piece back on? i never thought of putting it there will be stealing this idea for sure and had same thought of bumper fill valve. may put a tank where the spare tire used to be

Yes, the cover fits over it perfectly when i first measured before mounting...getting back under the truck on Monday and will test it out now its mounted for good.

We're not mounting a tank before the trip, but when i get back and have extra time, the air tank is going where the spare used to be - def do it and take some photos!!
 

foreverfalcon40

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Looks mint I fit my tank and compressor all in one side (passenger side) I will post a pic...it is floating around here somewhere Cuz I added train horns!
 
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sparg93

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Looks mint I fit my tank and compressor all in one side (passenger side) I will post a pic...it is floating around here somewhere Cuz I added train horns!

nice - definitely post some pics of that setup!
 

noJeepshere

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I want to run oba, but I'm thinking of putting the compressor on the frame (not sure where yet, or even if that's advisable) I was thinking in the rear where the spare tire will no longer be before too long, along with a tank. I want to run helper 'bags on the rear axle as well be able to air up my tires.
 
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sparg93

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I want to run oba, but I'm thinking of putting the compressor on the frame (not sure where yet, or even if that's advisable) I was thinking in the rear where the spare tire will no longer be before too long, along with a tank. I want to run helper 'bags on the rear axle as well be able to air up my tires.

I've seen guys do that...my only concern is that the compressor will then be exposed to the elements and if you go through water, it gets wet. Some of the compressors are designed to take the beating, but i personally like keeping my dry....but the tank, i'd def put there and put a small piece of steal over it to protect it from heavy rock bashes if you wheel over rocks/boulders.
 
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sparg93

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Going out of order a little bit today, but here are pics from the RCX install we completed last month.

The good - fit and finish were solid and directions were spot-on

The bad
- NO WAY CAN YOU INSTALL IN 8hrs - two guys who have done this before on a Tahoe with air tools and a hydraulic lift could not bang this out in 4hrs (2 guys x 4hrs each). My recommendation, start Friday evening and hope you are done by dinner on Sunday...our rigs are not spring puppies, you will run into rusty suspension bolts and some are a beast to remove.

- My front anti sway bar kept banging into my tie rods after install - you will have to seriously consider if you want to remove your front sway bar, b/c bending a tie rod is not an option.

- Order longer brake lines from the front & back; RCX has this ridiculous solution for rebending your brake lines - bad idea - don't do it! I didn't have the lines on me so I carefully rebent the lines and the rubber lines are still fully stretched when my wheel drops all the way...I received my Skyjacker extended brake lines this week and they're going in next week.

Quick tips:
When doing this lift, it's a great time to replace your pitman/idle arm/idler arm bracket. These parts wear on our rigs and you're taking apart the entire front end anyway, so spend the extra hour or two and put in some new hardware. I also recommend replacing your upper & lower ball joints - again, these parts wear and you're taking apart the front end anyway. I do have one precaution though, all of this takes up a lot of time, if you need your rig for work on Monday and you haven't completed this type of work before, don't do it...same the extras for another day so you're not stranded.

This lift requires a LOT of tools. Download their install directions online prior to ordering and make sure you can get your hands on this many tools if you don't already own them. I would also seriously recommend you have an air gun to assist you b/c manually doing all of this would be exhausting and a number of these bolts may be seized from rust. Definitely have a least one friend helping you out...there's a lot of work to be done and an extra set of hands is invaluable; especially for resetting the torsion bars and front differential.

Ok, off my soap box - on to the photos

Here's where we did the install...I got really lucky that someone in my family has a commercial garage attached to their house
IMG_8249.jpg


First up - new torsion bars from Sway A Way - these are huge compared to OEM and very little preload is needed to set the suspension up. B/c I'm going to have an extra 350lbs off the front (winch + bumper + battery), I decided to try these bars as they are much stiffer then OEM.

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FFR Fabrication made these for me and I have to say, the craftsmanship is superb. These guys are well know for tie rods ends in the NBS community, so I called them up and they made these special for my OBS. These tie rod ends are leagues ahead of OEM and I seriously recommend them for anyone that offroads

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For anyone running the np246 transfer case (it has the Auto 4wd pushbutton), you will need to order the custom driveshaft from RCX - if you don't, you will have vibrations while engaged in 4wd. I was a little skeptical of what RCX was going to send, but I have to say, this front driveshaft is incredibly well made. It's perfectly balanced and a serious beast of a driveshaft with a high end joint that allows greater articulation

IMG_8243.jpg


Also, for folks with rear sway bars (4dr Tahoes + Subs), you will need the longer drop down links for your rear anti sway bar.

Most IFS lift require cutting/grinding/etc - the Tahoe going under the knife by one of the guys helping out
IMG_8248.jpg


Keep a rattle can available and you can make most of your old rusty parts look pretty new; I also painted the frame and IMO, it looks great
IMG_8252.jpg


Shot of the IFS completed!
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In terms of overall lift, I'm up 4.5" in the rear (Alcan Springs - no blocks), and about 5" up in the front. I just ordered z71 bump stops and i'm hoping that b/c these are smaller then non-Z71 rigs, I can lower the front 0.5".

Once the new bump stops are in, I'll take a photo on level ground to show everyone the new stance!
 
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sparg93

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thanks guys - it's getting there!!

I finished up my Synergy Suspension ball joints yesterday and today I'm on to a new EGR valve (OEM shorted) and then wiring up my dual battery setup.

Supposedly the Group 34 batteries (larger capacity then 78) will fit in the second tray (I have a 2nd OEM)...today I find out for sure!
 

dsltrc

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It looks great... BUT, your brake rotors are on the wrong sides... The slots in the rotors are suppose to go the other direction... But keep up the good work... I know I'm jealous..
 
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sparg93

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It looks great... BUT, your brake rotors are on the wrong sides... The slots in the rotors are suppose to go the other direction... But keep up the good work... I know I'm jealous..

That's what I thought too!!

When I installed these last year I was baffled by how Power slot recommended the left and right side. So i called them up and how I have them installed is the right way!
 
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sparg93

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Really.. hmmm... Well power slot would know...Guess I learned something new...

someone tried to explain it to me once on why the veins point inward...but i still didn't understand their logic b/c it made more sense to me that they point outward.... :emotions122: -
 

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