9.5SF Swap

[Tonyrodz]

Well it's done. Stand by for burnouts.......

One picture is full drop the other at ride weight. Bags still need the lines routed and I plan on some more bling bling after a could weeks of testing.

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Well it's about time lol! How is it?

 

[Dantheman1540]

 

[Dantheman1540]

Like stock but actually locks like it's supposed to.

 

[Dantheman1540]

Actually on hard launches the exhaust is now hitting the spare tire cross member. Kinda strange since I didn't low it any more. I guess the bump stops were limiting it before. When I get air in the bags it may cure it but I will likely notch a little out.

Also I have a little less than 1" between the panhard and diff cover. Glad I got the QA1 curved bar. Going to email some companies tomorrow and see if their covers will fit but I'm thinking not. Not a big deal since the 9.5 isn't known to suffer terribly from carrier deflection.

Sway bar ended up with plenty of room so I'm still on the hunt for a hellwig!

I will try to update the first post tomorrow with a breakdown of what parts and mods were actually needed.

 

[Dantheman1540]

Strange I was going to update the first page with an exact breakdown of what parts need to be ordered and modified to do this swap. However it doesn't give me the option to edit my post like it does all the other posts in this thread.

So you have a GMT800 SUV and you want a better rear end for well under $1,000. Find yourself a rear end from a GMT900 SUV with RPO code AXN which has the 9.5" ring gear, 14 bolts on the rear cover and 33 spline axles. I used one out of a 2011 Yukon Denali.

Parts needed to buy:

-AXN coded axle with your choice of gear ratio

-U joint that is GM 3R on one side for the factory drive shaft and 1350 on the other. Part number (5U211-Neapco)

-QA1 Panhard bar (With the bend in it) Part# QA1-5262

-Zipties to secure parking brake to panhard bar



Parts needed to reuse off your original 10bolt rear end:

-Parking brake/splash guard

-Brake rotors, calipers and pads

-Brake lines from both sides


Overall the swap was very easy and can easily be completed in 1-2 days.

 

[mattt]

Is there a reason that you did not use the brakes that were on the 9.5SF axle?

 

[Dantheman1540]

Is there a reason that you did not use the brakes that were on the 9.5SF axle?

Didn't come with any or I probably would have. Also the 10bolt had nearly new powerstop rotors and pads. Plus this way I can order brakes front and rear for a 2004 tahoe and not have any issues.

 

[mattt]

Ahh okay. I didn't know if there was something about them that was different enough that they wouldn't work on an 800 application. Keeping all original brakes for an 04 Tahoe does make sense and keep it easy. Very nice work and write up, Thank you.

 

[randeez]

if the axle does come with the backing plates, rotor, caliper it all should work. brake line may need to be adapter but i think its pretty common upgrade from gmt800>gmt900 brakes so might work. but yea most scrap yards will pull the calipers, cause thats 50c worth of aluminum scrap!, instead of just leaving them on - when my axle came they cut the brake line also so i had to transfer the one from my 10bolt over


up a few posts i have the spohn adjustable car with the del-phere ends (straight) and its only a few mm from the cover. pretty large diameter but i doubt the hellwig will have much more room

 

[Dantheman1540]

Ahh okay. I didn't know if there was something about them that was different enough that they wouldn't work on an 800 application. Keeping all original brakes for an 04 Tahoe does make sense and keep it easy. Very nice work and write up, Thank you.

Another thing I've heard is the bigger GMT900 brakes throws off the brake bias and makes the rear want to lock up requiring a new proportioning valve. I believe I read that about pickup trucks not SUVs but its still possible. To me it was really about using what I had.

 

[Dantheman1540]

if the axle does come with the backing plates, rotor, caliper it all should work. brake line may need to be adapter but i think its pretty common upgrade from gmt800>gmt900 brakes so might work. but yea most scrap yards will pull the calipers, cause thats 50c worth of aluminum scrap!, instead of just leaving them on - when my axle came they cut the brake line also so i had to transfer the one from my 10bolt over

How did I not realize the calipers were aluminum!? lol

 

[Tonyrodz]

Another thing I've heard is the bigger GMT900 brakes throws off the brake bias and makes the rear want to lock up requiring a new proportioning valve. I believe I read that about pickup trucks not SUVs but its still possible. To me it was really about using what I had.

And aren't the rear brakes on the 900's actually smaller then the 800's?

 

[Dantheman1540]

And aren't the rear brakes on the 900's actually smaller then the 800's?

The inner diameter of the GMT900 rotor is larger. Can't comment on any other part other brake system tho.

 

[Dantheman1540]

 

[Tonyrodz]

View attachment 246941 View attachment 246942 View attachment 246943 View attachment 246944

That the new rear??

 

[Dantheman1540]

That the new rear??

Yes sir it is

 

[randeez]

was that the convertible ujoint from 1310 to 1350?
go non-greasable joint... if you dont trust the oem yoke i think a few manufacturers make them... check spicer, moser, strange, yukon

 

[Dantheman1540]

was that the convertible ujoint from 1310 to 1350?
go non-greasable joint... if you dont trust the oem yoke i think a few manufacturers make them... check spicer, moser, strange, yukon

Yep the conversion thingy. It was greasable which was really the only one I could find in stock at the time but I think the yoke broke first.

A buddy's theory which makes sense is that at the junk yard the axle was likely dropped on the yoke causing a micro crack. It did appear to have been drug on concrete a time or two because the OEM diff cover was all bent up on the bottom when I got it. So makes sense. I'm gonna go get whatever yoke and U joint that is in stock at Advanced Driveline down town. Hopefully an upgraded yoke and non greasable joint. I'd pull the shaft and have it redone for a 1350 so I can run a straight 1350 but the shop is several weeks backed up.

 

[Dantheman1540]

My buddy is actually gonna throw a yoke and U joint in it tomorrow while I'm at work. Hopefully tomorrow I can do the same thing except I'll spritz the tires with some tire shine to help lesson the initial impact of the clutch dump. I'll also cross my toes and hope the new stuff stays together.


Also since my powder coat buddy is so great I'll throw out a shameless plug for anyone in the Orlando area.

Luxury Choice Powders is seriously the best shop I've ever worked with. Met the owner at a gas station because I noticed his avalanche engine block was powder coated. He said he owned a powder coat shop and I gave him a try. That was a year or so ago. I have had him ceramic coat headers and firearms, powder fuel rails, suspension parts, wheels and just about everything in between. His prices are without a doubt 20% lower than any other place I've talked to and his work is truly too notch. One time a golf cart wheel I had powdered ended up getting a scratch about the size of a fingernail clipping on the backside of the wheel while he was reinstalling the tires for free. He offered to completely repowder the wheel for free right then or anytime in the future.

Long story short we are only friends because hes one of the few business owners I've ever met who stands by their word and does everything he can to make the customer happy. So go check him out on Instagram at luxury_choice_powders or message me and I can give you his number.

Mods please delete this if it breaks the rules.

 

[swathdiver]

+2 on what Randy said! Go solid.