6.2l DOD Delete parts list

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Enoob

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I've reviewed the other posts on what some have done for this, however I am an engine novice. I had a lifter collapse, so I am now in progress with this job. Here is a list of parts I am looking to go with. I am not looking for any real increase in power, etc., but something reliable and retaining VVT. I'm at about 180k with a body in very good condition and plan to keep this a while. Generally just used for family travel with occasionally pulling a boat. I was told this cam will be fine, but would like some confirmation of that. The heads are being gone over, but looked pretty good when removed. Do I need to do anything with the pressure relief plug in the oil pan? I was thinking of plugging the oil ports under the valley cover and cannot find what someone else used for this - like a roller from an A-37 bearing? Am I correct in being able to use standard length rods with the cam change? Appreciate any thoughts/suggestions.

GM LS2 lifter Trays (ahh yes, GM only)
Comp Cam lifters 4-850-16 LS/LT
GM Cam 1262660 Non DOD, Retains VVT
GM intake rockers (8) 1296105
GM exhaust rockers (8) 12681275
GM LS2 chain Dampener
Cloyes timing crank sprocket S827
Cloyes timing Chain 94205
TSP timing cover gasket like 12633904
TSP front crank seal like 12585673
GM LS1/LS6/LT1 wet sump balancer bolt (12557840?)
GML92 valley cover, no pcv
TSP gen IV head bolts TSPHB0568
TSP head gasket TSPHG0046
GM oil pump standard volume 12710304
Melling pickup tube bracket M29500
GM oil pan gasket 12612350
ACDelco VVT solenoid Actuator 12682000
Fel-Pro valve cover gasket VS50504R
Mahle valve cover grommets GS33466
Dorman exhaust flange stud & nuts 03133
Mahle exhaust manifold gaskets MS16124
Mahle camshaft thrust plate MF127
ACDelco plugs 41162
ACDelco wires 748UU
 

alpha_omega

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Have you checked out https://www.crazedperformancerepair.com/ or any of his YouTube videos? If not, there might be some good info on there for you. He has a breakdown list of parts and a few videos going through the delete on a couple different years/engines.

If someone doesn’t get to it before I do, I’ll take a look at your parts list once I get home to see if it all jives. I’m pretty sure there are a couple guys on here who already have the breakdown on their build page. It may however be a different setup than what you have.
 
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Enoob

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I have not see what you mentioned before and am reviewing them. Main concern is that I have the correct cam/lifter set up. Checked with TS earlier and asked if the GM cam would work with the lifters I got from them and was told that any stock GM cam would work. That seemed a little vague to me and was not real comfortable with that answer. Appreciate anyone with that knowledge to comment. Have the oil pan off/cleaned up and will be getting the oil pump off tomorrow and hopefully the cam out. Would like to start re-assembly soon. To get this back on the road sooner than later, would it be good to get the ECM sent off to a place like LT1swap and get the DOD deleted out? No local tune shop where I am. Considering an actual tune down the road if that might help performance. Thanks.
 
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Enoob

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Looks like I had a broken tensioner and not sure what would have caused the squarish spot on one of the lobes? Looking the crank sprocket over as I am not sure I want to try and tackle that if not needed, based on what others say about getting it off.
 

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Enoob

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Should I replace the VVT Sprocket if it looks okay?
 

Geotrash

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Looks like I had a broken tensioner and not sure what would have caused the squarish spot on one of the lobes? Looking the crank sprocket over as I am not sure I want to try and tackle that if not needed, based on what others say about getting it off.
Classic spalling on the lobe. My guess is a lifter binding up.

Tensioner breakage is a common problem as well. Yes, you can reuse sprocket.
 
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Enoob

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Classic spalling on the lobe. My guess is a lifter binding up.

Tensioner breakage is a common problem as well. Yes, you can reuse sprocket.
Thank you. I had one lifter collapse.

What camshaft is this? Never seen that number before.

An L9H camshaft is or was 12623065 and is spec'd 198-209 .500-.500 115

Gwatyney sells a 6.2 bumpstick that retains VVT and increases power.
Texas Speed lists that as an option for a factory non-dod cam when looking at their package options for my vehicle. Specs look to be:
Chevrolet GM OEM Camshaft - L96 - NON-DOD - Retains VVT - 12626660
196/208 .467"/.479" 116 LSA

I do not really know anything about the difference in specs. Learning as I go. Going with what you mention, does that typically require a change in springs, rods or other things?
 

swathdiver

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Thank you. I had one lifter collapse.


Texas Speed lists that as an option for a factory non-dod cam when looking at their package options for my vehicle. Specs look to be:
Chevrolet GM OEM Camshaft - L96 - NON-DOD - Retains VVT - 12626660
196/208 .467"/.479" 116 LSA

I do not really know anything about the difference in specs. Learning as I go. Going with what you mention, does that typically require a change in springs, rods or other things?
Boy I'd be fuming if I put that thing in my truck and it runs slower! That's a 6.0 camshaft, not the L9H. By deleting AFM, you are basically converting your truck to an L9H, so those knuckleheads ought to give you that camshaft. You don't have to change anything.
 

Geotrash

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Boy I'd be fuming if I put that thing in my truck and it runs slower! That's a 6.0 camshaft, not the L9H. By deleting AFM, you are basically converting your truck to an L9H, so those knuckleheads ought to give you that camshaft. You don't have to change anything.
Agreed. And @Enoob, I believe you’re going to need a tune to get it running without the AFM system physically in place. You might as well get a cam that can give you a power bump. But, if you’re really after the stock profile, you can use a standard factory L92 cam. It’s designed specifically for the 6.2.

 

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