2017 Yukon Denali Rear Shock Replacement

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Joseph Garcia

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I've seen resistors anywhere from 4 to 20 OHMS, and a size of 10 to 50 watts. As such, I don't believe that the actual resistance is all that critical, as long as it approximates these ranges.
 

gyukon1978

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I went with the Fox coil overs on the front and leveled it 1.25".
This showed me how bad the rear shocks are!
I am not lifting this any further and want to keep the air/auto level feature. What does the crew say abut these from Arnott? Looks like they keep the magnarride as well.
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Just replaced both front and rear shocks on my 2017 Yukon Denali with Arnott mr3840 front and Arnott mr3626 rear (magneride z95). Couldn't be happier. Took 6hrs total on my own. Yukon is rock solid back to factory specs (I didn't level and kept the front bias). I also replaced the sway bar links and bushings while i had the truck up on jack stands. Easy, cheap. Used ACDelco links and bushings. Carparts.com for shocks, rockauto for sway bar links and bushings. 2k v 5k+ at dealership.
 
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MobileHomie

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I am bumping this thread because I am not happy with the performance of the Arnott MR 3626 magnaride rear shocks. Still the rear end is still bouncing around. Even did the old put your weight on the rear bumber to bounce it, stopped moving on the third bounce.
When I replaced the fronts with Fox coilovers, I purchased and installed this shock sim.
Vendor told me this would still work with the magnaride rears or work as a sim with passive shocks. Could this thing be causing me trouble, or should I pursue warranty on the shocks?
 
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MobileHomie

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I am bumping this thread because I am not happy with the performance of the Arnott MR 3626 magnaride rear shocks. Still the rear end is still bouncing around. Even did the old put your weight on the rear bumber to bounce it, stopped moving on the third bounce.
When I replaced the fronts with Fox coilovers, I purchased and installed this shock sim.
Vendor told me this would still work with the magnaride rears or work as a sim with passive shocks. Could this thing be causing me trouble, or should I pursue warranty on the shocks?
Well, I am back to report that the issue was completely mine. The electrical connection on the right rear shock was not seated, the o-ring type seal had escaped the grove and was jammed in the bottom of the socket. Removed the o-ring, lubed with dielectric grease and it went right together, like a hotdog down the hallway, so to speak.
 

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