2017 Yukon Denali Rear Shock Replacement

[MobileHomie]

I went with the Fox coil overs on the front and leveled it 1.25".
This showed me how bad the rear shocks are!
I am not lifting this any further and want to keep the air/auto level feature. What does the crew say abut these from Arnott? Looks like they keep the magnarride as well.
Link

 

[Thrust]

Those are passive and not magnetic filled. Good replacement but not magnaride.
Check rock auto for all your options on replacements.

 

[Doubeleive]

I went with the Fox coil overs on the front and leveled it 1.25".
This showed me how bad the rear shocks are!
I am not lifting this any further and want to keep the air/auto level feature. What does the crew say abut these from Arnott? Looks like they keep the magnarride as well.
Link

the one you want is the MR3626 they are a little more about $100 more each, lifetime warranty.
not sure if those have a core charge or not, if they do you get the core charge refunded when you send the old oem shocks back.
and unless your originals are leaking air then you will not see any improvement no matter what you choose

 

[MobileHomie]

the one you want is the MR3626 they are a little more about $100 more each, lifetime warranty.
not sure if those have a core charge or not, if they do you get the core charge refunded when you send the old oem shocks back.
and unless your originals are leaking air then you will not see any improvement no matter what you choose

The originals are not leaking air, but the back end feels like a trampoline.
I want more of a firm, sporty ride.

Those are passive and not magnetic filled. Good replacement but not magnaride.
Check rock auto for all your options on replacements.

So, are those plugs in the picture simulators?
Won't matter, the sims I bought are for front and rear.

 

[MobileHomie]

RockAuto is $414.xx with $14.00 shipping, Summit is $402.xx free shipping.
I could paper the walls of my garage with Summit stickers!

 

[Doubeleive]

The originals are not leaking air, but the back end feels like a trampoline.
I want more of a firm, sporty ride.

So, are those plugs in the picture simulators?

so what you might want to do is a little troubleshooting
one thing that can happen is the air shock pump relief valve can stop working so you end up with a over inflated shock.
when you shut off the vehicle after a drive (vehicle without a load on it) a few moments later you should hear the pump release some air for about a second.
when you start the vehicle it should also first-release some air for just a moment to relieve pressue and then kick the pump on.
if you reach under the vehicle and squeeze the shock bladders (vehicle off) they should feel a little bit squishy, if they are rock-hard then there is too much pressure which is indicative of the relief valve not working.
over inflated and under flated/flat can both result in poor ride quality.

 

[MobileHomie]

Thank you D
So, if either of those were going on, pressure too high or too low, wouldn't that throw a code?

 

[Doubeleive]

Thank you D
So, if either of those were going on, pressure too high or too low, wouldn't that throw a code?

not necessarily but it could, usually it's other things that make it throw codes
that's why you can delete air ride with resistors and it just thinks everything is dandy

 

[MobileHomie]

not necessarily but it could, usually it's other things that make it throw codes
that's why you can delete air ride with resistors and it just thinks everything is dandy

I see, Thank you again Doubleleive.
I squeezed the bladder like you said and they were neither flat or rock hard, I could squeeze them pretty easy with the vehicle off.
I am ordering the Arnott MR3626 from Summit.

 

[Landman12]

not necessarily but it could, usually it's other things that make it throw codes
that's why you can delete air ride with resistors and it just thinks everything is dandy

Any recommendations on resistors?

 

[Doubeleive]

Any recommendations on resistors?

never researched what ohm's it takes, I am sure it is posted on a thread on here somewhere
any idea's @iamdub ? @swathdiver ? @randeez ?

 

[swathdiver]

never researched what ohm's it takes, I am sure it is posted on a thread on here somewhere
any idea's @iamdub ? @swathdiver ? @randeez ?

Not me, but Chris, Ken or Joe might now. @Joseph Garcia @kbuskill

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I've seen resistors anywhere from 4 to 20 OHMS, and a size of 10 to 50 watts. As such, I don't believe that the actual resistance is all that critical, as long as it approximates these ranges.

 

[gyukon1978]

I went with the Fox coil overs on the front and leveled it 1.25".
This showed me how bad the rear shocks are!
I am not lifting this any further and want to keep the air/auto level feature. What does the crew say abut these from Arnott? Looks like they keep the magnarride as well.
Link

Just replaced both front and rear shocks on my 2017 Yukon Denali with Arnott mr3840 front and Arnott mr3626 rear (magneride z95). Couldn't be happier. Took 6hrs total on my own. Yukon is rock solid back to factory specs (I didn't level and kept the front bias). I also replaced the sway bar links and bushings while i had the truck up on jack stands. Easy, cheap. Used ACDelco links and bushings. Carparts.com for shocks, rockauto for sway bar links and bushings. 2k v 5k+ at dealership.

 

[MobileHomie]

I am bumping this thread because I am not happy with the performance of the Arnott MR 3626 magnaride rear shocks. Still the rear end is still bouncing around. Even did the old put your weight on the rear bumber to bounce it, stopped moving on the third bounce.
When I replaced the fronts with Fox coilovers, I purchased and installed this shock sim.
Vendor told me this would still work with the magnaride rears or work as a sim with passive shocks. Could this thing be causing me trouble, or should I pursue warranty on the shocks?

 

[MobileHomie]

I am bumping this thread because I am not happy with the performance of the Arnott MR 3626 magnaride rear shocks. Still the rear end is still bouncing around. Even did the old put your weight on the rear bumber to bounce it, stopped moving on the third bounce.
When I replaced the fronts with Fox coilovers, I purchased and installed this shock sim.
Vendor told me this would still work with the magnaride rears or work as a sim with passive shocks. Could this thing be causing me trouble, or should I pursue warranty on the shocks?

Well, I am back to report that the issue was completely mine. The electrical connection on the right rear shock was not seated, the o-ring type seal had escaped the grove and was jammed in the bottom of the socket. Removed the o-ring, lubed with dielectric grease and it went right together, like a hotdog down the hallway, so to speak.

 

[DeDadi]

I see, Thank you again Doubleleive.
I squeezed the bladder like you said and they were neither flat or rock hard, I could squeeze them pretty easy with the vehicle off.
I am ordering the Arnott MR3626 from Summit.

Hello I’m pretty confused as to what to do with suspension on my Denali. Did you ever sort your suspension out?

 

[MobileHomie]

Hello I’m pretty confused as to what to do with suspension on my Denali. Did you ever sort your suspension out?

No not really. I ditched the Arnott magnaride clones in favor of OE GM and am still not happy with it. I think the issue is different shock rates between the passive Fox coilovers on the front and the OE electronics in the rear. I think I need passive rears with air leveling.

 

[DeDadi]

No not really. I ditched the Arnott magnaride clones in favor of OE GM and am still not happy with it. I think the issue is different shock rates between the passive Fox coilovers on the front and the OE electronics in the rear. I think I need passive rears with air leveling.

Well I bit the bullet and bought the Arnott MR replacements. It feels pretty nice for now but it’s only been a few days. I’m trying to figure out my rear end though.
I did the Maxxtrac rear drop kit last month that comes with the lowering springs and relocating brackets. Unfortunately I think it’s a bit much of a drop in the back and I’m trying to go up an 1”to have a little more shock travel. Not entirely sure how to achieve this.