2011 Chevy Tahoe. Z-71 4X4.

[The Grey Beast]

so I am new to this forum. I recently purchased a 2011 Chevy Tahoe Z71z. What upgrades do you recommend The SUV has 147 miles on it. It sounds like it’s in great shape. Qsounds like a healthy engine. I’m thinking of changing the LED lights in the car. Seat coveres. Any recommendations?

Aloha

Ken

 

[swathdiver]

so I am new to this forum. I recently purchased a 2011 Chevy Tahoe Z71z. What upgrades do you recommend The SUV has 147 miles on it. It sounds like it’s in great shape. Qsounds like a healthy engine. I’m thinking of changing the LED lights in the car. Seat coveres. Any recommendations?

Aloha

Ken

Welcome from Florida Ken! Get your sunglasses out if you put LEDs inside.

I would inspect the plugs and wires and begin the process of changing ALL the fluids in the truck.

Seat covers can abrade the material they are covering.

Pcitures!

 

[Sam Harris]

Welcome from Texas! Aloha!

Definitely need some pics of your rig.
As mentioned above, swap out all fluids, and also have a good look at brake lines / fluid, replace as needed, PS fluid, check suspension components for play, or leakage. Have a good look at all belts and hoses. I agree with @swathdiver in the LEDs also. I love them on the exterior, but way too bright as lighting inside the truck. (Cluster and controls excepted). Any CEL present? How are the brakes and tires? What’s the fuel mileage look like? Any smells, or noises you aren’t able to explain? Congrats on the rig. She’ll be a solid ride for you as long as you care well for her.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.

Before even thinking about upgrades, spend your first months with the truck checking out EXISTING parts and systems, and repair/replace any parts and systems that need attention. Get your truck back to as new a condition that your budget allows, and then you can start thinking about upgrades.

 

[Miami-Dade]

Welcome from Miami Beach&NYC Ken!

Moved you over here.

so I am new to this forum. I recently purchased a 2011 Chevy Tahoe Z71z. What upgrades do you recommend The SUV has 147 miles on it. It sounds like it’s in great shape. Qsounds like a healthy engine. I’m thinking of changing the LED lights in the car. Seat coveres. Any recommendations?

Aloha

Ken

 

[RobH]

Welcome to the Forum.

Someone else may comment on this concerning the 2007-2015 Tahoes. My Tahoe fits in the 2015-2020 date range so I am not sure about the 2007-2014 Tahoes. You probably have a 6L80E transmission: 6 forward gears, installed Longitudinally, 80 series, Electronic control. The transmission code is MYC.

There is a service bulletin on the later 6L80E's to replace the 90 degree Centigrade thermal bypass valve (transmission thermostat) with a 70 degree centigrade thermostat when the transmission pan is dropped for servicing. Heat apparently reduces the operating life of the transmission, primarily the torque converter lockup clutch. When the clutch starts going, it takes out the rest of the transmission. Then it's re-manufacture time or major overhaul time. Been there, done that.

You may have the original transmission, it may have been repaired, or it may have been replaced with a re-manufactured transmission. If your transmission temp maxes out in the 150-170 degree range, you have the 70 degree centigrade thermostat. If it maxes out in the 170+ range, you don't. If your temps are normally in the 150-170 degree range but go up to the 180 plus range when towing, you need an auxiliary cooler.

Putting in the lower temp thermostat should make a real difference in the longevity of your transmission.

Another weak spot in the drive-train is the engine's Active Fuel Management (AFM)/Displacement on Demand (DOD) system. It shuts off four of the eight cylinders under low load conditions. The problem is crudding up of the control system. You can do a search on the Forum for information for your engine and model year range.

Approaches to handling the AFM/DOD situation include changing oil at 3,000 to 5,000 miles with improved oil to full synthetic, disabling the system with an AFM/DOD delete change to your powertrain control computer, and replacing internal engine components with non AFM/DOD components.

Wishing you the best with your Z71.

 

[The Grey Beast]

so I am new to this forum. I recently purchased a 2011 Chevy Tahoe Z71z. What upgrades do you recommend The SUV has 147 miles on it. It sounds like it’s in great shape. Qsounds like a healthy engine. I’m thinking of changing the LED lights in the car. Seat coveres. Any recommendations?

Aloha

Ken

So great forum and great responses. I come from car dealers and mechanics and I’m neither a car dealer or mechanic. I don’t have pics but I will take some and post. I noticed the Transmission gauge stated 140-170 F. As I drove the car home from the dealer. Not knowing what that ment. I later took the Tahoe to get an oil change and ended up getting an oil change, transmission fluid ,front and rear differential. all changed. Now the transmission is running much cooler. I appreciate the car seat cover opinion because the Tahoe is an LTZ and black leather seats look great and I want to protect them but not at the expense of wearing them down.

 

[The Grey Beast]

Welcome to the Forum.

Someone else may comment on this concerning the 2007-2015 Tahoes. My Tahoe fits in the 2015-2020 date range so I am not sure about the 2007-2014 Tahoes. You probably have a 6L80E transmission: 6 forward gears, installed Longitudinally, 80 series, Electronic control. The transmission code is MYC.

There is a service bulletin on the later 6L80E's to replace the 90 degree Centigrade thermal bypass valve (transmission thermostat) with a 70 degree centigrade thermostat when the transmission pan is dropped for servicing. Heat apparently reduces the operating life of the transmission, primarily the torque converter lockup clutch. When the clutch starts going, it takes out the rest of the transmission. Then it's re-manufacture time or major overhaul time. Been there, done that.

You may have the original transmission, it may have been repaired, or it may have been replaced with a re-manufactured transmission. If your transmission temp maxes out in the 150-170 degree range, you have the 70 degree centigrade thermostat. If it maxes out in the 170+ range, you don't. If your temps are normally in the 150-170 degree range but go up to the 180 plus range when towing, you need an auxiliary cooler.

Putting in the lower temp thermostat should make a real difference in the longevity of your transmission.

Another weak spot in the drive-train is the engine's Active Fuel Management (AFM)/Displacement on Demand (DOD) system. It shuts off four of the eight cylinders under low load conditions. The problem is crudding up of the control system. You can do a search on the Forum for information for your engine and model year range.

Approaches to handling the AFM/DOD situation include changing oil at 3,000 to 5,000 miles with improved oil to full synthetic, disabling the system with an AFM/DOD delete change to your powertrain control computer, and replacing internal engine components with non AFM/DOD components.

Wishing you the best with your Z71.

Funny. I was at work and read your post. I went home and popped the hood and found the engine to be clean. Like no dirt or oil clean. Belts look great. So I got home and popped the hood again and low and behold. It has the transmission cooling thermostat. I was all ready to get one. So I’ll take picks of that too. I’m assuming I’m right.

 

[The Grey Beast]

Welcome from Texas! Aloha!

Definitely need some pics of your rig.
As mentioned above, swap out all fluids, and also have a good look at brake lines / fluid, replace as needed, PS fluid, check suspension components for play, or leakage. Have a good look at all belts and hoses. I agree with @swathdiver in the LEDs also. I love them on the exterior, but way too bright as lighting inside the truck. (Cluster and controls excepted). Any CEL present? How are the brakes and tires? What’s the fuel mileage look like? Any smells, or noises you aren’t able to explain? Congrats on the rig. She’ll be a solid ride for you as long as you care well for her.

All the fluids or most of them were changed. Brakes and tires are in working order great shape. No smells noises and the engine roars.

 

[The Grey Beast]

Welcome to the Forum.

Someone else may comment on this concerning the 2007-2015 Tahoes. My Tahoe fits in the 2015-2020 date range so I am not sure about the 2007-2014 Tahoes. You probably have a 6L80E transmission: 6 forward gears, installed Longitudinally, 80 series, Electronic control. The transmission code is MYC.

There is a service bulletin on the later 6L80E's to replace the 90 degree Centigrade thermal bypass valve (transmission thermostat) with a 70 degree centigrade thermostat when the transmission pan is dropped for servicing. Heat apparently reduces the operating life of the transmission, primarily the torque converter lockup clutch. When the clutch starts going, it takes out the rest of the transmission. Then it's re-manufacture time or major overhaul time. Been there, done that.

You may have the original transmission, it may have been repaired, or it may have been replaced with a re-manufactured transmission. If your transmission temp maxes out in the 150-170 degree range, you have the 70 degree centigrade thermostat. If it maxes out in the 170+ range, you don't. If your temps are normally in the 150-170 degree range but go up to the 180 plus range when towing, you need an auxiliary cooler.

Putting in the lower temp thermostat should make a real difference in the longevity of your transmission.

Another weak spot in the drive-train is the engine's Active Fuel Management (AFM)/Displacement on Demand (DOD) system. It shuts off four of the eight cylinders under low load conditions. The problem is crudding up of the control system. You can do a search on the Forum for information for your engine and model year range.

Approaches to handling the AFM/DOD situation include changing oil at 3,000 to 5,000 miles with improved oil to full synthetic, disabling the system with an AFM/DOD delete change to your powertrain control computer, and replacing internal engine components with non AFM/DOD components.

Wishing you the best with your Z71.

You said”Another weak spot in the drive-train is the engine's Active Fuel Management (AFM)/Displacement on Demand (DOD) system. It shuts off four of the eight cylinders under low load conditions. The problem is crudding up of the control system. You can do a search on the Forum for information for your engine and model year range.”

I must tell you I’m in California. Correct me if I’m wrong but you can insert a chip to disable the AFM. No matter how it’s done I’m under the impression that in California this is illegal. It’s due to the fact that disabling the AFM affects the emissions on the vehicle and if you live or have lived in California you know this is a big deal. However I’m told that when your registration renewal comes and smog
Checks are down each year you just pull the chip. Prior to inspection. Bear in mind I’m getting my info at the water cooler but trying to learn along the way.

Any thoughts?

Ken