2011 Tahoe battery issue.

[The Grey Beast]

Hi been awhile. So I’m having battery issue with 2011 Chevy Tahoe. Check charging system comes up . I purchased a ABM battery last November. It’s worked thus far. But I purchased the Tahoe used. It had a regular battery and it had similar issue. The battery lasted a year or so but it always would go low charge during ibut charge back up again just like it’s doing now but with the ABM battery. I took the Tahoe i to the Chevy dealer a few months back and they stated the catalytic converter was old so I replaced it. After putting in the ABM battery last November. Took my Tahoe to Auto zone today and they hooked up battery tester and ibattery is at 12 volts. The needle should be in a green area where the catalytic looks to be working. So the employee at auto zone stated the catalytic converter seems to be not working. I’m not the expert so who knows. Made an appointment with Chevy Tomorrow but I’m concerned there is an issue going on here that I’ve missed. I believe I replaced the battery connections. The connections don’t seem over greased. The battery (ABM) seemed to recharge and then when iddle would loose charge it would get to 9 volts and then I would turn the car back on and it would go back to 12-14 volts instantly.

Hope I’ve explained my situation properly.

Thank you

Aloha Ken

 

[Campie]

Hi been awhile. So I’m having battery issue with 2011 Chevy Tahoe. Check charging system comes up . I purchased a ABM battery last November. It’s worked thus far. But I purchased the Tahoe used. It had a regular battery and it had similar issue. The battery lasted a year or so but it always would go low charge during ibut charge back up again just like it’s doing now but with the ABM battery. I took the Tahoe i to the Chevy dealer a few months back and they stated the catalytic converter was old so I replaced it. After putting in the ABM battery last November. Took my Tahoe to Auto zone today and they hooked up battery tester and ibattery is at 12 volts. The needle should be in a green area where the catalytic looks to be working. So the employee at auto zone stated the catalytic converter seems to be not working. I’m not the expert so who knows. Made an appointment with Chevy Tomorrow but I’m concerned there is an issue going on here that I’ve missed. I believe I replaced the battery connections. The connections don’t seem over greased. The battery (ABM) seemed to recharge and then when iddle would loose charge it would get to 9 volts and then I would turn the car back on and it would go back to 12-14 volts instantly.

Hope I’ve explained my situation properly.

Thank you

Aloha Ken

Seems odd that a catalytic converter would affect the battery/charging system. Can you explain?

 

[Dustin Jackson]

I think you mean alternator, the alternator is what charges the battery while the engine is running. If you had the alternator replaced and you are still having issues with it charging your battery it might be good to inspect the condition of the cables that go between the battery and the alternator.

 

[j91z28d1]

from past threads it's almost always cable related, they go bad from the inside out, loose or bad ground or battery terminals themselves loose. you should be able to grab with both hands and take a lot of effort to move them, if at all.

after you've done the basics, if it still does it. the rabbit hole gets much deeper.

 

[Campie]

“After putting in the ABM battery last November. Took my Tahoe to Auto zone today and they hooked up battery tester and ibattery is at 12 volts. The needle should be in a green area where the catalytic looks to be working. So the employee at auto zone stated the catalytic converter seems to be not working”

I’m just trying to understand this part of the description from Aloha Ken. Haven’t had time yet to do anything more on my issue.

 

[West 1]

For clarity, the Battery is an AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat), I think that is what you mean. These new will test between 12.8 and 12.9 Volts commonly. Running your engine should put out between 13.5 and 14.5 constant voltage. The alternator maintains the constant voltage when the engine is running. You should never see 12 V, it should always be above 12.6V engine off and parked.

Questions: What is your running engine voltage at the battery? IF the car has been not running for at least 30 minutes what is the battery voltage?

When you first shut off the engine the battery will show phony voltage for 20-30 minutes. This is Overcharge from he alternator which puts out 13.5 to 14.5 normally. This overcharge will drop to true battery voltage after 30 minutes for an accurate reading of the battery voltage.

Next Test: End of day, let car sit off for 30 minutes, Check Battery Voltage at the battery, record your reading. Car closed and locked let it sit overnight. Before starting the engine or turning the key on open the hood and check battery voltage. It should be the same as you read the night before. If it read 12.85 at 7 pm on your first test it should read very close to that same number in the morning. You might see 12.78 and that would be normal. If you see 12.3 in the morning you have battery draw problems to address.

Note: some of the newer systems will allow the alternator to shut off for periods while engine is running to save MPG for you. These are a little different to test. I have found all you need to do is turn on the headlights, this normally triggers the alternator or computer to keep the alternator running while the lights are on. Gives you a real alternator test.

These are like, first step tests to do long before putting your car in a shop or heaven forbid the dealer. None of these tests cost any more than a little of your time. If you do not have a multi meter to check battery voltage they are available for about $20 at Harbor freight or a nice Fluke professional model might cost $150 on amazon. Both will check voltage pretty accurately.

 

[j91z28d1]

“After putting in the ABM battery last November. Took my Tahoe to Auto zone today and they hooked up battery tester and ibattery is at 12 volts. The needle should be in a green area where the catalytic looks to be working. So the employee at auto zone stated the catalytic converter seems to be not working”

I’m just trying to understand this part of the description from Aloha Ken. Haven’t had time yet to do anything more on my issue.

what?

 

[Campie]

For clarity, the Battery is an AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat), I think that is what you mean. These new will test between 12.8 and 12.9 Volts commonly. Running your engine should put out between 13.5 and 14.5 constant voltage. The alternator maintains the constant voltage when the engine is running. You should never see 12 V, it should always be above 12.6V engine off and parked.

Questions: What is your running engine voltage at the battery? IF the car has been not running for at least 30 minutes what is the battery voltage?

When you first shut off the engine the battery will show phony voltage for 20-30 minutes. This is Overcharge from he alternator which puts out 13.5 to 14.5 normally. This overcharge will drop to true battery voltage after 30 minutes for an accurate reading of the battery voltage.

Next Test: End of day, let car sit off for 30 minutes, Check Battery Voltage at the battery, record your reading. Car closed and locked let it sit overnight. Before starting the engine or turning the key on open the hood and check battery voltage. It should be the same as you read the night before. If it read 12.85 at 7 pm on your first test it should read very close to that same number in the morning. You might see 12.78 and that would be normal. If you see 12.3 in the morning you have battery draw problems to address.

Note: some of the newer systems will allow the alternator to shut off for periods while engine is running to save MPG for you. These are a little different to test. I have found all you need to do is turn on the headlights, this normally triggers the alternator or computer to keep the alternator running while the lights are on. Gives you a real alternator test.

These are like, first step tests to do long before putting your car in a shop or heaven forbid the dealer. None of these tests cost any more than a little of your time. If you do not have a multi meter to check battery voltage they are available for about $20 at Harbor freight or a nice Fluke professional model might cost $150 on amazon. Both will check voltage pretty accurately.

Lol, all really good info and I’m delighted to learn more and understand better how the car works and how it runs! But really - I’m confused by the reference to the catalytic converter when they were actually looking at the battery. Or am I reading that excerpt wrong and the comment about the cat is a totally separate issue?

 

[Fless]

Well, we need to wait for the OP to come back on here and see his response. He hasn't been on here since before all of these comments were posted.

 

[West 1]

Many car systems, including the O2 sensors need constant voltage to work properly. As voltage drops many codes may pop up.