2011 Chevy Tahoe. Z-71 4X4.

[Geotrash]

Awesome, will be anxiously watching...Of course, I am traveling that week so, please, give me a heads up. Finally ready to pull the trigger with a tuner from BBP!

You'll love it. They tuned both of mine, including after the cam swap on my 2012, and they're both running fabulously. Such a pleasure to drive.

 

[Doubeleive]

Good, but also damnit! Don't want to reflash ECM and purchase another device just for smog. Such is life.. in california..
IMO the shift tables are every bit as important as AFM delete to have a normal driving vehicle.. Unless you like tow mode all the time..

You don't have to a canned tune can stay on as long as it carb certified if you get a Blackbear tune then you can take it off and put it back on whenever you feel like it as long as you have the autocal, no need to do anything with the ecm

 

[Fubar0715]

You'll love it. They tuned both of mine, including after the cam swap on my 2012, and they're both running fabulously. Such a pleasure to drive.

I have been lurking for sometime - been saving my pennies from side work and whatnot, outside of wifey's purview, to get this done. I feel like it will make my SSV be like night and day in the driving experience.

 

[Doubeleive]

Wait, you said said "may" !

ya because as of a year or two ago california started checking for tunes on the computer, previous to that it wouldn't have mattered if it was carb legal or not.
mine is kind of stuck in limbo it has a hypertech tune that I cannot remove because I had the transmission rebuilt and did not un-marry the tecm before I had it done so now the hypertech detects there was a change and won't allow me to put the stock tune back on, so I just had a blackbear tune done instead and when it comes time to do a smog I just put the hyptertech tune back on with the autocal and give them the carb number for the hypertech and I am good to go, then when the smog is done I put the backbear tune back on until next time. doing that takes about 5 minutes.

 

[BlackBearPerf]

Awesome, will be anxiously watching...Of course, I am traveling that week so, please, give me a heads up. Finally ready to pull the trigger with a tuner from BBP!

Sounds great! At a minimum, it will be the weekend of Memorial Day and the discount will be automatically applied when checking out.

 

[The Grey Beast]

well 1st and foremost, there are perfectly LEGAL means to electronically (by tune) turn off the afm so it will stay in v8 mode
that can be done with any number of carb legal canned tuners that you can buy either used or from ebay, or new from 4wheel parts or amazon or any number of places
you just have to be sure it is legal for sale in ca, when it comes time to do the smog just be sure to have the carb number from the tune device to provide to whoever is doing the smog they just verify the number int he machine/computer and you are good to go, you do not need to de-tune it or do anything.
if you do it any other way without a carb cerification then you may not pass smog.

other than that I would first concentrate of getting things maintenanced (like the fluids you already did) plus more, like coolant, brake fluid, power steering.
your 2011 DOES NOT HAVE a transmission thermostat, the information you were given was for vehicles 2015 or later

there are some post's on the forum already detailing all the things you may want to address at 145k or can expect to occur in the not too distant future. being you do not know the history there can be some things overdue such as 02 sensors.

wheel hubs typical life is 160k, fuel pump 160k, maf sensor 160k you see where this going.....
plugs n wires should be inspected those should have been changed at 100k like the 02 sensors

 

[The Grey Beast]

well 1st and foremost, there are perfectly LEGAL means to electronically (by tune) turn off the afm so it will stay in v8 mode
that can be done with any number of carb legal canned tuners that you can buy either used or from ebay, or new from 4wheel parts or amazon or any number of places
you just have to be sure it is legal for sale in ca, when it comes time to do the smog just be sure to have the carb number from the tune device to provide to whoever is doing the smog they just verify the number int he machine/computer and you are good to go, you do not need to de-tune it or do anything.
if you do it any other way without a carb cerification then you may not pass smog.

other than that I would first concentrate of getting things maintenanced (like the fluids you already did) plus more, like coolant, brake fluid, power steering.
your 2011 DOES NOT HAVE a transmission thermostat, the information you were given was for vehicles 2015 or later

there are some post's on the forum already detailing all the things you may want to address at 145k or can expect to occur in the not too distant future. being you do not know the history there can be some things overdue such as 02 sensors.

wheel hubs typical life is 160k, fuel pump 160k, maf sensor 160k you see where this going.....
plugs n wires should be inspected those should have been changed at 100k like the 02 sensors

Welcome from Florida Ken! Get your sunglasses out if you put LEDs inside.

I would inspect the plugs and wires and begin the process of changing ALL the fluids in the truck.

Seat covers can abrade the material they are covering.

Pcitures!

As
Requested.

Ken

 

[The Grey Beast]

 

[The Grey Beast]

Rather than go to all recent posts of mine I’ll just leave this out there to see and not repeat my posts. Pics shown as I stated I would. Enjoy!

I really appreciate the comments. No ego just good friendly knowledge. I’ve leaned through the years about cars but I don’t know how to work or change most things. A door knob or a panel part. Yeah I can do that.

Any input of mine comes from what other people have said so take it with a grain of salt. I do have experience with Chevy trucks since my first Blue Chevy Silverado (1992). However I’m not a hands on guy with Do It Yourself knowledge on the technical parts of the SUV.

I’m going to get to the point in future posts and state what has been changed and what hasn’t. I would appreciate any comments on a make shift spread sheet of what you think the Gray Beast (Tahoe) needs. I really like this Chevy it’s what I wanted for a long time and I’m not keen to the new stuff. Especially the price. Unless the Tahoe is a lost cause (financially) I want to keep this Z-71 and upgrade as I go.

Aloha to all.

Ken

 

[mikez71]

Hey Ken, I'm local! I saw your plate and thought... I've seen a place called Kareem..
If you see a white Z71 with push bumper, that's me.

Man your engine bay is clean..

 

[mikez71]

.. when it comes time to do a smog I just put the hyptertech tune back on with the autocal and give them the carb number for the hypertech and I am good to go, then when the smog is done I put the backbear tune back on until next time. doing that takes about 5 minutes.

Yea, thing is I really want to delete the afm as well, so no going back to stock tune once I do. I'm scared to activate AFM after it's been off for so long...

I do see on the Range website that they are going through the process of carb certification.. so hopefully soon..

Other carb compliant thing I have seen is a Jasper rebuild with AFM delete and their program.. But pretty sure they want you to buy their motor for that..

 

[The Grey Beast]

Thank you Mike. It is Kareem. I was treated well there. Now just have to see if the Tahoe will last.

I will look for you.

It is and I wasn’t the one who cleaned it.

lol.

Later.

Ken

 

[The Grey Beast]

Welcome from Florida Ken! Get your sunglasses out if you put LEDs inside.

I would inspect the plugs and wires and begin the process of changing ALL the fluids in the truck.

Seat covers can abrade the material they are covering.

Pcitures!

Pics. Thank
You.

 

[The Grey Beast]

Welcome from Florida Ken! Get your sunglasses out if you put LEDs inside.

I would inspect the plugs and wires and begin the process of changing ALL the fluids in the truck.

Seat covers can abrade the material they are covering.

Pcitures!

 

[The Grey Beast]

Welcome from Texas! Aloha!

Definitely need some pics of your rig.
As mentioned above, swap out all fluids, and also have a good look at brake lines / fluid, replace as needed, PS fluid, check suspension components for play, or leakage. Have a good look at all belts and hoses. I agree with @swathdiver in the LEDs also. I love them on the exterior, but way too bright as lighting inside the truck. (Cluster and controls excepted). Any CEL present? How are the brakes and tires? What’s the fuel mileage look like? Any smells, or noises you aren’t able to explain? Congrats on the rig. She’ll be a solid ride for you as long as you care well for her.

 

[The Grey Beast]

Welcome to the Forum.

Someone else may comment on this concerning the 2007-2015 Tahoes. My Tahoe fits in the 2015-2020 date range so I am not sure about the 2007-2014 Tahoes. You probably have a 6L80E transmission: 6 forward gears, installed Longitudinally, 80 series, Electronic control. The transmission code is MYC.

There is a service bulletin on the later 6L80E's to replace the 90 degree Centigrade thermal bypass valve (transmission thermostat) with a 70 degree centigrade thermostat when the transmission pan is dropped for servicing. Heat apparently reduces the operating life of the transmission, primarily the torque converter lockup clutch. When the clutch starts going, it takes out the rest of the transmission. Then it's re-manufacture time or major overhaul time. Been there, done that.

You may have the original transmission, it may have been repaired, or it may have been replaced with a re-manufactured transmission. If your transmission temp maxes out in the 150-170 degree range, you have the 70 degree centigrade thermostat. If it maxes out in the 170+ range, you don't. If your temps are normally in the 150-170 degree range but go up to the 180 plus range when towing, you need an auxiliary cooler.

Putting in the lower temp thermostat should make a real difference in the longevity of your transmission.

Another weak spot in the drive-train is the engine's Active Fuel Management (AFM)/Displacement on Demand (DOD) system. It shuts off four of the eight cylinders under low load conditions. The problem is crudding up of the control system. You can do a search on the Forum for information for your engine and model year range.

Approaches to handling the AFM/DOD situation include changing oil at 3,000 to 5,000 miles with improved oil to full synthetic, disabling the system with an AFM/DOD delete change to your powertrain control computer, and replacing internal engine components with non AFM/DOD components.

Wishing you the best with your Z71.

So I monitored the temperature of the transmission. At night is was 86 degrees to start and maxed out at 136 degrees on a 45 minute ride with 55 degrees outside. At daytime. It maxed out at 186-192. With stop and go. On the road with a 45 minute trip it level offed at 186 degrees. With outside temperatures of 85 degrees. Theses daytime temperatures are consistent. Without seeing and inspecting the transmission. In your opinion Is the transmission old and worn out? What is a normal transmission temp for a 2011 Tahoe?

What do you recommend? What does my 2011 have? Thermostat replacement need or do you recommend auxiliary cooler. What’s the difference between both? What’s the cost of replacement and or putting a new system in place like and auxiliary cooler?

Thank you.

Ken

 

[mikez71]

temps are fine. Goes through the radiator so it will tend to get up to ~190.
NO thermostat until next body style according to Doubelieve. Only helpful for cold temps I believe.
Transmission cooler is good. (Looks like you have one? Or is that power steering?) I'm looking for a trans cooler myself.
I have a little over 200k and I think it shifts fine and well. But only had it about 6 months..

 

[The Grey Beast]

I did see that normal Transmission temps are 185-200. Well at least the internet thinks so. I have been reading a lot and not just expecting answers from you or anyone else.

Thanks again for your time. It’s not wasted.

Ken

 

[The Grey Beast]

temps are fine. Goes through the radiator so it will tend to get up to ~190.
NO thermostat until next body style according to Doubelieve. Only helpful for cold temps I believe.
Transmission cooler is good. (Looks like you have one? Or is that power steering?) I'm looking for a trans cooler myself.
I have a little over 200k and I think it shifts fine and well. But only had it about 6 months..

No I don’t have one I looked it’s the radiator in the back and the part to the Ac that looks like an auxiliary cooler. So says the rookie. Could be wrong. But I don’t think I have a cooler.

 

[The Grey Beast]

Thank you. I did look on-line and saw other opinions on other forums including this one. Past knowledge tends to agree with your opinion on transmission temps.

Ken