2011 Chevy Tahoe. Z-71 4X4.

[The Grey Beast]

so I am new to this forum. I recently purchased a 2011 Chevy Tahoe Z71z. What upgrades do you recommend The SUV has 147 miles on it. It sounds like it’s in great shape. Qsounds like a healthy engine. I’m thinking of changing the LED lights in the car. Seat coveres. Any recommendations?

Aloha

Ken

 

[swathdiver]

so I am new to this forum. I recently purchased a 2011 Chevy Tahoe Z71z. What upgrades do you recommend The SUV has 147 miles on it. It sounds like it’s in great shape. Qsounds like a healthy engine. I’m thinking of changing the LED lights in the car. Seat coveres. Any recommendations?

Aloha

Ken

Welcome from Florida Ken! Get your sunglasses out if you put LEDs inside.

I would inspect the plugs and wires and begin the process of changing ALL the fluids in the truck.

Seat covers can abrade the material they are covering.

Pcitures!

 

[Sam Harris]

Welcome from Texas! Aloha!

Definitely need some pics of your rig.
As mentioned above, swap out all fluids, and also have a good look at brake lines / fluid, replace as needed, PS fluid, check suspension components for play, or leakage. Have a good look at all belts and hoses. I agree with @swathdiver in the LEDs also. I love them on the exterior, but way too bright as lighting inside the truck. (Cluster and controls excepted). Any CEL present? How are the brakes and tires? What’s the fuel mileage look like? Any smells, or noises you aren’t able to explain? Congrats on the rig. She’ll be a solid ride for you as long as you care well for her.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.

Before even thinking about upgrades, spend your first months with the truck checking out EXISTING parts and systems, and repair/replace any parts and systems that need attention. Get your truck back to as new a condition that your budget allows, and then you can start thinking about upgrades.

 

[Miami-Dade]

Welcome from Miami Beach&NYC Ken!

Moved you over here.

so I am new to this forum. I recently purchased a 2011 Chevy Tahoe Z71z. What upgrades do you recommend The SUV has 147 miles on it. It sounds like it’s in great shape. Qsounds like a healthy engine. I’m thinking of changing the LED lights in the car. Seat coveres. Any recommendations?

Aloha

Ken

 

[RobH]

Welcome to the Forum.

Someone else may comment on this concerning the 2007-2015 Tahoes. My Tahoe fits in the 2015-2020 date range so I am not sure about the 2007-2014 Tahoes. You probably have a 6L80E transmission: 6 forward gears, installed Longitudinally, 80 series, Electronic control. The transmission code is MYC.

There is a service bulletin on the later 6L80E's to replace the 90 degree Centigrade thermal bypass valve (transmission thermostat) with a 70 degree centigrade thermostat when the transmission pan is dropped for servicing. Heat apparently reduces the operating life of the transmission, primarily the torque converter lockup clutch. When the clutch starts going, it takes out the rest of the transmission. Then it's re-manufacture time or major overhaul time. Been there, done that.

You may have the original transmission, it may have been repaired, or it may have been replaced with a re-manufactured transmission. If your transmission temp maxes out in the 150-170 degree range, you have the 70 degree centigrade thermostat. If it maxes out in the 170+ range, you don't. If your temps are normally in the 150-170 degree range but go up to the 180 plus range when towing, you need an auxiliary cooler.

Putting in the lower temp thermostat should make a real difference in the longevity of your transmission.

Another weak spot in the drive-train is the engine's Active Fuel Management (AFM)/Displacement on Demand (DOD) system. It shuts off four of the eight cylinders under low load conditions. The problem is crudding up of the control system. You can do a search on the Forum for information for your engine and model year range.

Approaches to handling the AFM/DOD situation include changing oil at 3,000 to 5,000 miles with improved oil to full synthetic, disabling the system with an AFM/DOD delete change to your powertrain control computer, and replacing internal engine components with non AFM/DOD components.

Wishing you the best with your Z71.

 

[The Grey Beast]

so I am new to this forum. I recently purchased a 2011 Chevy Tahoe Z71z. What upgrades do you recommend The SUV has 147 miles on it. It sounds like it’s in great shape. Qsounds like a healthy engine. I’m thinking of changing the LED lights in the car. Seat coveres. Any recommendations?

Aloha

Ken

So great forum and great responses. I come from car dealers and mechanics and I’m neither a car dealer or mechanic. I don’t have pics but I will take some and post. I noticed the Transmission gauge stated 140-170 F. As I drove the car home from the dealer. Not knowing what that ment. I later took the Tahoe to get an oil change and ended up getting an oil change, transmission fluid ,front and rear differential. all changed. Now the transmission is running much cooler. I appreciate the car seat cover opinion because the Tahoe is an LTZ and black leather seats look great and I want to protect them but not at the expense of wearing them down.

 

[The Grey Beast]

Welcome to the Forum.

Someone else may comment on this concerning the 2007-2015 Tahoes. My Tahoe fits in the 2015-2020 date range so I am not sure about the 2007-2014 Tahoes. You probably have a 6L80E transmission: 6 forward gears, installed Longitudinally, 80 series, Electronic control. The transmission code is MYC.

There is a service bulletin on the later 6L80E's to replace the 90 degree Centigrade thermal bypass valve (transmission thermostat) with a 70 degree centigrade thermostat when the transmission pan is dropped for servicing. Heat apparently reduces the operating life of the transmission, primarily the torque converter lockup clutch. When the clutch starts going, it takes out the rest of the transmission. Then it's re-manufacture time or major overhaul time. Been there, done that.

You may have the original transmission, it may have been repaired, or it may have been replaced with a re-manufactured transmission. If your transmission temp maxes out in the 150-170 degree range, you have the 70 degree centigrade thermostat. If it maxes out in the 170+ range, you don't. If your temps are normally in the 150-170 degree range but go up to the 180 plus range when towing, you need an auxiliary cooler.

Putting in the lower temp thermostat should make a real difference in the longevity of your transmission.

Another weak spot in the drive-train is the engine's Active Fuel Management (AFM)/Displacement on Demand (DOD) system. It shuts off four of the eight cylinders under low load conditions. The problem is crudding up of the control system. You can do a search on the Forum for information for your engine and model year range.

Approaches to handling the AFM/DOD situation include changing oil at 3,000 to 5,000 miles with improved oil to full synthetic, disabling the system with an AFM/DOD delete change to your powertrain control computer, and replacing internal engine components with non AFM/DOD components.

Wishing you the best with your Z71.

Funny. I was at work and read your post. I went home and popped the hood and found the engine to be clean. Like no dirt or oil clean. Belts look great. So I got home and popped the hood again and low and behold. It has the transmission cooling thermostat. I was all ready to get one. So I’ll take picks of that too. I’m assuming I’m right.

 

[The Grey Beast]

Welcome from Texas! Aloha!

Definitely need some pics of your rig.
As mentioned above, swap out all fluids, and also have a good look at brake lines / fluid, replace as needed, PS fluid, check suspension components for play, or leakage. Have a good look at all belts and hoses. I agree with @swathdiver in the LEDs also. I love them on the exterior, but way too bright as lighting inside the truck. (Cluster and controls excepted). Any CEL present? How are the brakes and tires? What’s the fuel mileage look like? Any smells, or noises you aren’t able to explain? Congrats on the rig. She’ll be a solid ride for you as long as you care well for her.

All the fluids or most of them were changed. Brakes and tires are in working order great shape. No smells noises and the engine roars.

 

[The Grey Beast]

Welcome to the Forum.

Someone else may comment on this concerning the 2007-2015 Tahoes. My Tahoe fits in the 2015-2020 date range so I am not sure about the 2007-2014 Tahoes. You probably have a 6L80E transmission: 6 forward gears, installed Longitudinally, 80 series, Electronic control. The transmission code is MYC.

There is a service bulletin on the later 6L80E's to replace the 90 degree Centigrade thermal bypass valve (transmission thermostat) with a 70 degree centigrade thermostat when the transmission pan is dropped for servicing. Heat apparently reduces the operating life of the transmission, primarily the torque converter lockup clutch. When the clutch starts going, it takes out the rest of the transmission. Then it's re-manufacture time or major overhaul time. Been there, done that.

You may have the original transmission, it may have been repaired, or it may have been replaced with a re-manufactured transmission. If your transmission temp maxes out in the 150-170 degree range, you have the 70 degree centigrade thermostat. If it maxes out in the 170+ range, you don't. If your temps are normally in the 150-170 degree range but go up to the 180 plus range when towing, you need an auxiliary cooler.

Putting in the lower temp thermostat should make a real difference in the longevity of your transmission.

Another weak spot in the drive-train is the engine's Active Fuel Management (AFM)/Displacement on Demand (DOD) system. It shuts off four of the eight cylinders under low load conditions. The problem is crudding up of the control system. You can do a search on the Forum for information for your engine and model year range.

Approaches to handling the AFM/DOD situation include changing oil at 3,000 to 5,000 miles with improved oil to full synthetic, disabling the system with an AFM/DOD delete change to your powertrain control computer, and replacing internal engine components with non AFM/DOD components.

Wishing you the best with your Z71.

You said”Another weak spot in the drive-train is the engine's Active Fuel Management (AFM)/Displacement on Demand (DOD) system. It shuts off four of the eight cylinders under low load conditions. The problem is crudding up of the control system. You can do a search on the Forum for information for your engine and model year range.”

I must tell you I’m in California. Correct me if I’m wrong but you can insert a chip to disable the AFM. No matter how it’s done I’m under the impression that in California this is illegal. It’s due to the fact that disabling the AFM affects the emissions on the vehicle and if you live or have lived in California you know this is a big deal. However I’m told that when your registration renewal comes and smog
Checks are down each year you just pull the chip. Prior to inspection. Bear in mind I’m getting my info at the water cooler but trying to learn along the way.

Any thoughts?

Ken

 

[Sam Harris]

You said”Another weak spot in the drive-train is the engine's Active Fuel Management (AFM)/Displacement on Demand (DOD) system. It shuts off four of the eight cylinders under low load conditions. The problem is crudding up of the control system. You can do a search on the Forum for information for your engine and model year range.”

I must tell you I’m in California. Correct me if I’m wrong but you can insert a chip to disable the AFM. No matter how it’s done I’m under the impression that in California this is illegal. It’s due to the fact that disabling the AFM affects the emissions on the vehicle and if you live or have lived in California you know this is a big deal. However I’m told that when your registration renewal comes and smog
Checks are down each year you just pull the chip. Prior to inspection. Bear in mind I’m getting my info at the water cooler but trying to learn along the way.

Any thoughts?

Ken

The AFM can (and should, if you wish to enjoy your truck for any length of time) be disabled. You can have it tuned out with a full tune (which I would recommend, for example @BlackBearPerf), or you can buy a device such as Range to disable AFM. Alternatively, you can drive it in 5th gear each time you start it up, to prevent it from using AFM. And of course the best option, to physically change the hardware, removing the weak links, and replacing with standard lifters, etc.. via a kit.

 

[Fubar0715]

Another welcome from NH!! FWIW, I replaced the bulbs in the overhead housings to LEDs throughout my truck - was not horribly bright and adds much needed light to my old eyes! Also put LEDs in new headlight assemblies cuz, well, cannot see as well anymore and the added light helps. They are REAL bright so make sure to get them adjusted.

 

[BlackBearPerf]

The AFM can (and should, if you wish to enjoy your truck for any length of time) be disabled. You can have it tuned out with a full tune (which I would recommend, for example @BlackBearPerf), or you can buy a device such as Range to disable AFM. Alternatively, you can drive it in 5th gear each time you start it up, to prevent it from using AFM. And of course the best option, to physically change the hardware, removing the weak links, and replacing with standard lifters, etc.. via a kit.

Sam is absolutely correct. The AFM on the 2007-2013 models is known to cause oil consumption issues and part damage so it is best to have it disabled. We do not feel it adds much of a benefit for those years. We can disable it so that the vehicle stays in V8 at all times. We can do it with a single-item tune which just disables the AFM or include it as part of a full tune. The full tune will also provide shifting improvements, an increase in throttle response, and power gains.

 

[Fubar0715]

Sam is absolutely correct. The AFM on the 2007-2013 models is known to cause oil consumption issues and part damage so it is best to have it disabled. We do not feel it adds much of a benefit for those years. We can disable it so that the vehicle stays in V8 at all times. We can do it with a single-item tune which just disables the AFM or include it as part of a full tune. The full tune will also provide shifting improvements, an increase in throttle response, and power gains.

Speaking of Tunes - any upcoming specials or sales in the pipeline, say Memorial day or 4th of July????

 

[Doubeleive]

You said”Another weak spot in the drive-train is the engine's Active Fuel Management (AFM)/Displacement on Demand (DOD) system. It shuts off four of the eight cylinders under low load conditions. The problem is crudding up of the control system. You can do a search on the Forum for information for your engine and model year range.”

I must tell you I’m in California. Correct me if I’m wrong but you can insert a chip to disable the AFM. No matter how it’s done I’m under the impression that in California this is illegal. It’s due to the fact that disabling the AFM affects the emissions on the vehicle and if you live or have lived in California you know this is a big deal. However I’m told that when your registration renewal comes and smog
Checks are down each year you just pull the chip. Prior to inspection. Bear in mind I’m getting my info at the water cooler but trying to learn along the way.

Any thoughts?

Ken

well 1st and foremost, there are perfectly LEGAL means to electronically (by tune) turn off the afm so it will stay in v8 mode
that can be done with any number of carb legal canned tuners that you can buy either used or from ebay, or new from 4wheel parts or amazon or any number of places
you just have to be sure it is legal for sale in ca, when it comes time to do the smog just be sure to have the carb number from the tune device to provide to whoever is doing the smog they just verify the number int he machine/computer and you are good to go, you do not need to de-tune it or do anything.
if you do it any other way without a carb cerification then you may not pass smog.

other than that I would first concentrate of getting things maintenanced (like the fluids you already did) plus more, like coolant, brake fluid, power steering.
your 2011 DOES NOT HAVE a transmission thermostat, the information you were given was for vehicles 2015 or later

there are some post's on the forum already detailing all the things you may want to address at 145k or can expect to occur in the not too distant future. being you do not know the history there can be some things overdue such as 02 sensors.

wheel hubs typical life is 160k, fuel pump 160k, maf sensor 160k you see where this going.....
plugs n wires should be inspected those should have been changed at 100k like the 02 sensors

 

[BlackBearPerf]

Speaking of Tunes - any upcoming specials or sales in the pipeline, say Memorial day or 4th of July????

We will, most likely, be having a Memorial Day sale.

 

[mikez71]

Another device that I really love is the AutoSync with BCM programming.($400 @ btdieselworks.com) The plug in unit will display sensor info in your dash display (gear, tcc lock, trans temp, converter slip, spark advance, intake air temp and a few others) It has a built in DTC reader so you can check for codes anytime (shows up on your dash display). Also has remote roll up/down windows, manual high idle and light flashers. Also you can push backwards on your mirror adjuster and view the rear camera for a few seconds.

With the BCM programming you can disable the auto doorlocks. (Main reason I bought it!). Disable auto headlights and DRL's, tweak your interior lighting and light configuration for approach and exit lighting. Adds extended accessory power, so when you take your keys out and open the door, you can still roll down your windows. Small things, but a couple were really bugging me, and a few features are really nice to have.

 

[mikez71]

well 1st and foremost, there are perfectly LEGAL means to electronically (by tune) turn off the afm so it will stay in v8 mode
that can be done with any number of carb legal canned tuners that you can buy either used or from ebay, or new from 4wheel parts or amazon or any number of places
you just have to be sure it is legal for sale in ca, when it comes time to do the smog just be sure to have the carb number from the tune device to provide to whoever is doing the smog they just verify the number int he machine/computer and you are good to go, you do not need to de-tune it or do anything.

Good, but also damnit! Don't want to reflash ECM and purchase another device just for smog. Such is life.. in california..
IMO the shift tables are every bit as important as AFM delete to have a normal driving vehicle.. Unless you like tow mode all the time..

 

[mikez71]

if you do it any other way without a carb cerification then you may not pass smog.

Wait, you said said "may" !

 

[Fubar0715]

We will, most likely, be having a Memorial Day sale.

Awesome, will be anxiously watching...Of course, I am traveling that week so, please, give me a heads up. Finally ready to pull the trigger with a tuner from BBP!