2008 Tahoe No Start after DOD Delete

[JimTahoe]

I could use some help. I did a DOD delete with a Texas Speed kit including GM non-DOD cam, LS7 lifters, new push rods, and replaced most of the sensors (cam, crank, O2’s, MAF, etc). After completing the rebuild, the engine won’t fire. It will crank without spark. Fuel pressure is fine and all the rockers are moving. I’m getting a P0016 code, but I would have thought it would have fired and run rough without a relearn on the crank sensor. I also had the ECM flashed to deactivate the DOD. I’m stumped and frustrated after 4 months of working on this truck. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[blackbeard_lives]

engine computers are super picky when it comes to crank and cam signals. my buddy had stretched the wire on the crank sensor on his cavalier during an engine swap and it rang good on a meter but needed the wire replaced before the computer was happy enough to fire the spark plugs.

 

[solli5pack]

I could use some help. I did a DOD delete with a Texas Speed kit including GM non-DOD cam, LS7 lifters, new push rods, and replaced most of the sensors (cam, crank, O2’s, MAF, etc). After completing the rebuild, the engine won’t fire. It will crank without spark. Fuel pressure is fine and all the rockers are moving. I’m getting a P0016 code, but I would have thought it would have fired and run rough without a relearn on the crank sensor. I also had the ECM flashed to deactivate the DOD. I’m stumped and frustrated after 4 months of working on this truck. Any help would be appreciated.

Are you confident that whoever flashed the ECM did it correctly? If you have no spark on any cylinders than thats definitely the place to start. Also any particular reason you changed out all the sensors and did you replace with OEM parts? I'm a big fan of if it ain't broke don't fix it so when I did my delete on my 170,000 mile Burb I kept everything I could.

 

[JimTahoe]

SOLVED. I did not seat the cam timing gear all the way even though it bolted in fine. I pulled the camshaft position sensor this morning and saw that the gear shaved a millimeter off of the end. I’m going to remove the timing cover and see if I can seat the gear without having to do the bigger job of removing the diff, oil pan, oil pickup tube, oil pump, etc and straining myself to put the diff back. Wish me luck.

 

[Fless]

SOLVED. I did not seat the cam timing gear all the way even though it bolted in fine. I pulled the camshaft position sensor this morning and saw that the gear shaved a millimeter off of the end. I’m going to remove the timing cover and see if I can seat the gear without having to do the bigger job of removing the diff, oil pan, oil pickup tube, oil pump, etc and straining myself to put the diff back. Wish me luck.

Good luck!

 

[Geotrash]

SOLVED. I did not seat the cam timing gear all the way even though it bolted in fine. I pulled the camshaft position sensor this morning and saw that the gear shaved a millimeter off of the end. I’m going to remove the timing cover and see if I can seat the gear without having to do the bigger job of removing the diff, oil pan, oil pickup tube, oil pump, etc and straining myself to put the diff back. Wish me luck.

Good catch! Yes, you should be able to do what you're attempting without dropping the oil pan at all. That dowel pin is a really common thing to not get seated right.

 

[JimTahoe]

Final Update - I was able to reset the cam gear without having to drop the oil pan. I got the timing aligned and put in a new cam position sensor. Truck fired right up on the first try and drives great now. I was expecting to need to do a relearn on the cam and crank position sensors, but it seems to run great. Thanks to everyone for the input.

 

[GREMINGTON]

2011 Tahoe 5.3 LMG. Did the DOD delete. Will not start now. Scanner tool says cam and crank are not aligned. Gears are dot to dot. Had to tear it down to guarantee this and took a picture this time for proof. Did compression check at suggestion of local pro mechanic. Compression was like 40 lbs or so and did not hold.
I am thinking this cam is not properly indexed to work when lined up dot to dot. Any ideas? I am at my wits end after doing two complete teardowns and reassembly. I did make sure cam gear was seated as previous poster referred to.
I bought the kit from Amazon from Susucar $599.99 in January '25 which may have a lot to do with my problem. Seller was AEPAuto which had 100% satisfaction rating. Same kit is now selling for $342.99 (Feb '25). Seems fishy.

 

[swathdiver]

Did the DOD delete. Will not start now. Scanner tool says cam and crank are not aligned. Gears are dot to dot. Had to tear it down to guarantee this and took a picture this time for proof. Did compression check at suggestion of local pro mechanic. Compression was like 40 lbs or so and did not hold.
I am thinking this cam is not properly indexed to work when lined up dot to dot. Any ideas? I am at my wits end after doing two complete teardowns and reassemblies. I did make sure cam gear was seated as previous poster referred to.

Probably not at TDC.

 

[GREMINGTON]

Probably not at TDC.

When crank dot is up it can only be at TDC.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@GREMINGTON can you send us a link to the camshaft?

 

[GREMINGTON]

@GREMINGTON can you send us a link to the camshaft?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BV6CTTCY/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@GREMINGTON I think the 2011 LMG has VVT, the kit you bought it for NON_VVT engines. I think that's where you're problem is at. I bet you are using the wrong camshaft sprocket and the cam sensor isn't picking up the signal

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@GREMINGTON Here is a comment from the product listing of the kit you bought that has some helpful information that supports my theory:

"
I rebuilt my 2011 Tahoe 5.3l flex and thought I would save you time to let you know what else you will need. If you are doing a 2007-2014 Chevy 5.3 this info is priceless.
*Earlier generation timing cover.
*Camshaft position sensor.
*Camshaft single bolt- Chevy dealer did not have this bolt nor the auto stores. I found it at GM, it was thier last one and they said it is for a Pontiac.
*Oil pan bypass bolt.
*I got oil tower plugs (pound in), not necessary but for piece of mind.
*AFM/VVT delete the ECU. I sent mine through the mail to LT-1 Swap. Put it in the truck and it required no further programming.
*I had to modify my oil pressure sending unit filter as the valley cover is too shallow for the full depth of the filer. The filter is too long.
*Red Locktight.
*Blue Lockight.
Above are the things you will have to get to accomplish your rebuild.
Below, you may consider replacing while you have it taken apart.
*Water pump.
*Spark plugs.
*Belts.
*Oil filter.
*Valve springs (I did not replace my valves or valve springs).

I picked up a Dewalt electric ratchet at the beginning of my rebuild. Pretty sure it saved my life.
Flywheel tip; I picked up a flywheel holder. It is installed in place of your starter. This tool was worthless to me and Ive heard the same from others. I wrapped my harmonic balancer with a bicyle inner tube, looped a tie down around it and tightened it to the frame to remove the bolt.

I hope this helps. In the end my engine runs better than before the lifter failure.