2007 Tahoe/New member from sunny California/Looking for some advice

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NOSOK

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Oh and regarding the battery, see if you can find a date code. If it's much older than 5 yrs, I'd consider replacing it. Our 2011 Suburban had a 2015 battery that would die after leaving interior lights on for 30 min. And a battery tester said it was "good"...$150 later from Costco and we're good for the foreseeable future. Not fun to have a dead battery in the middle of nowhere.
 

wsteele

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Gavin won't come knocking in our neck of the woods haha. But can the disablers be removed easily before serviced/sold etc without messing anything up? It was smogged recently after we bought it and unless we sell, in our county (thus far) smog is not required to register each year while we own.

The issue with having the updated drivers side valve cover installed because of design defect of the PCV was one of those issues that I thought was related to AFM??? and without being mechanically inclined at all, wasn't sure what that all meant for us. Is that something that can be determined by looking at since I can't get ahold of records?

Unfortunately, the daughter did not have any records. I have to assume that they weren't with the vehicle and that is probably why they did the service to see the health of the vehicle. I actually called 3 or 4 of the local dealers around where he lived to see if they had the records and the one that did the service looked in his database and said he could not tell where done, but it looked like it had regular oil changes at some dealership(s) and no reported engine issues. So I'm flying blind here.

Yes, the tank (or subs back in the day) is what I feel safest in and I live in an area where the big aggressive lifted mud trucks sometimes ride ur butt and tower over you haha, so would like to be able to not feel like a 98 pound weakling.

If you won’t be doing emissions tests until you sell it, a device like a Range Technology AFM Disabler will work fine at turning it off and nothing else need be done.

On my 2007 Yukon, when I pulled the Range device it would reset emissions monitors that need to be driven for some time to be reset. In my case, it took about 350 miles and over 11 cold starts to reset them, such that it would pass emissions in a place like CA or Idaho. Not a big deal, just required planning for when emissions testing is required. Another route would be to find someone who does software tuning of modern engines and have them turn AFM off in your PCM. They can keep a copy of your "stock tune" (i.e. with AFM) and restore it when you decide to sell it.

I have owned my 2007 Yukon since new and still love it like the day I bought it. I just love how it drives and everything it can do. I won’t lie, 2007 wasn’t the best of years for these trucks, the AFM components have been improved in later years, the improved valve cover (and AFM pressure relief valve deflector), etc. But all of this stuff appears bigger on the screen than it is in real life. Keep it maintained (and if you elect to turn AFM off as long as you own it) and the thing will likely deliver many, many years of trouble free service.
 

Rocket Man

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Welcome from Oregon. You’ll get more help if you break up your questions separately since I also won’t be reading miles long posts. Also most questions have been answered here multiple times and can be found by searching although the search function here isn’t the best. Anyway, welcome!
 

swathdiver

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We found a sweet deal on a 2007 Tahoe LT 4x4, correct color (white), one owner, garaged with 87,000 miles for 10k.

Hi Carla,

For an LMG engine, the 8th digit in your VIN will be a zero. Truck should have a yellow gas cap, if not, get a factory one to avoid problems. RPO sheet in glove box contains all the codes for the options that the vehicle is equipped with. GM will decode these for free by email or chat/text. The LY5 was essentially the same engine sans the FlexFuel capability. These engines love the stuff, make more power on it, plus you can mix it to maximize economy, mpgs and dollars saved.

As for AFM, dirty oil is AFMs worst enemy. GM came out with an improved valve cover and new VLOM assembly by 2011 that eliminated most AFM problems.
 
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Caligirl

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Welcome from Oregon. You’ll get more help if you break up your questions separately since I also won’t be reading miles long posts. Also most questions have been answered here multiple times and can be found by searching although the search function here isn’t the best. Anyway, welcome!

I have been searching for days, but since I'm not sure of terminology, it's difficult to know if I'm searching correctly. Already learned quite a bit from the few replies I've had :)

I did delete a portion of the original post regarding interior care that I'll post elsewhere. And once I figure out where to post different things, I'll make smaller. Or should I just assume the moderator(s) will move stuff if in wrong section?
 
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Caligirl

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Hi Carla,

For an LMG engine, the 8th digit in your VIN will be a zero. Truck should have a yellow gas cap, if not, get a factory one to avoid problems. RPO sheet in glove box contains all the codes for the options that the vehicle is equipped with. GM will decode these for free by email or chat/text. The LY5 was essentially the same engine sans the FlexFuel capability. These engines love the stuff, make more power on it, plus you can mix it to maximize economy, mpgs and dollars saved.

As for AFM, dirty oil is AFMs worst enemy. GM came out with an improved valve cover and new VLOM assembly by 2011 that eliminated most AFM problems.

Thank you for more helpful info. Yes, the 8th number is a zero, and any VIN check website says FF. No yellow cap, no emblem. I'll take a pic of the glove box sticker today to see if I can get help from GM.

Husband is not the best with keeping up on oil changes...I try to not nag, but I may have to if we want to keep this Tahoe lol. Due to the AFM issues, what do folks recommend for the mileage to change oil (if different than what the manual calls for)? Thanks!
 

Rocket Man

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I have been searching for days, but since I'm not sure of terminology, it's difficult to know if I'm searching correctly. Already learned quite a bit from the few replies I've had :)

I did delete a portion of the original post regarding interior care that I'll post elsewhere. And once I figure out where to post different things, I'll make smaller. Or should I just assume the moderator(s) will move stuff if in wrong section?
No, don’t rely on the mods to keep moving stuff for you. At the top left is a button that says “forums”. Click on that, and it takes you to the various models ie 2007-2014 Tahoe/Yukon/ Escalade and if you open those up there’s sub categories ie Engine & Drivetrain etc. So look at the header on this thread, you’ll see :
Forums> 2007-2014 Tahoe/Yukon/ Escalade Models> Engine & Drivetrain.

If you have an interior question, post in the appropriate sub category ie Interior. It’s not hard, navigate around and explore.
 
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Caligirl

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No, don’t rely on the mods to keep moving stuff for you. At the top left is a button that says “forums”. Click on that, and it takes you to the various models ie 2007-2014 Tahoe/Yukon/ Escalade and if you open those up there’s sub categories ie Engine & Drivetrain etc. So look at the header on this thread, you’ll see :
Forums> 2007-2014 Tahoe/Yukon/ Escalade Models> Engine & Drivetrain.

If you have an interior question, post in the appropriate sub category ie Interior. It’s not hard, navigate around and explore.

I originally posted in "general" under 2007-2014 and it was moved to where it is now; that's why I deleted interior portions because of where the post ended up. I honestly haven't been on any sort of forum for probably 10 or 15 years, so not sure of the etiquette, particularly for this one. Just trying to fast track our decision on whether to keep this one or not, so we're not paying insurance for 2 cars and having 1 car sit there while I'm figuring it out. I'll take a little more time and look at the forum set up so I am putting things in appropriate places.
 

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